Replacing steering gear on 5.0L 1998 explorer

[jerryls]

I have a 98 explorer AWD V8. It developed a severe power steering leak. It pours right out of the top of the rack and pinion gear housing, It looks like it leaks from the area where the mounting bolt runs through the housing. In any case I'm trying to take it out to replace it. The Chilton manual says to remove the pinch bolt and seperate the lower steering column shaft from the steering gear. Where is that bolt. Is it the 18-19 mm bolt that sits on the bottom side of the gear housing? If it's above the gear housing, how do I get at it. I already removed the sway bar, and small steerng fluid radiator. Any help would be great!

[shorod]

The pinch bolt the manual refers to is the bolt that holds the steering column shaft to the rack. I'm not sure how to better explain this. The steering column shaft is the shaft that is directly connected to the steering wheel. It will probably be more like a 10mm bolt. Once the pinch bolt is loose, you should be able to slide the lower steering column shaft off of the spline shaft for the rack.

Before you remove this, you may want to center the rack and straighten the steering wheel so you can orient the steering wheel properly on the new rack in case the spline shaft is not keyed.

Be sure to have an alignment performed once the new rack is installed, and good luck!

-Rod

[jerryls]

Rod,
Thanks very much. I thought it made more sense for the pinch bolt to be perpindicular to the shaft. I can't even see the bottom of the shaft , but if there's a way to get at it, I'll find it. Maybe I have to remove the pump.
I have the steering wheel and wheels as straight as I can get them. I'll let you know how I make out.
Thanks Again!

[shorod]

Another access point may be through the wheel well liner. If you jack the driver's side off the ground, support it on jack stands, then remove the wheel, you may be able to reach up over the suspension and get a straight shot at the pinch bolt, or I may be speaking out my arse here. I know this path makes spark plug and wire replacement quite a bit easier, but I wasn't paying attention to the steering linkage at the time.

-Rod

[jerryls]

I was able to remove the pinch bolt, now I can;t get the darn thing out. It says to rotate the unit forward, but it jams between the crossmember and the oil pan. Do I have to raise the engine? What a design? I'd love to hear rom someone who has done this job on the V8*
Jerry

[shorod]

If you rotate the steering wheel, can you turn it to an orientation that will allow you to remove the bolt, then with the bolt out, turn the steering wheel straight again?

-Rod

[jerryls]

Rod,
Thanks, but I have the gear removed from the steering rod completely. My problem is that I can't get the gear ssembly out. You have to rotate the gear assembly forward in order to slide it right far`enough so the left inner tie rod clears the frame. The problem I have is that i can't rotate it. There is not enough room between the crossmember and the engine.

[shorod]

I checked the service manual on this last night and it reads something about removing the left outer tie rod end, then turning the gear to the right lock which will give it enough clearance to be removed from the vehicle. If you need the procedure I can e-mail it to you late tonight. Just send me a private message with an e-mail address for you that can accept a PDF attachment if you'd like a copy of the procedure from the service manual.

-Rod

[way2old]

We remove the inner tie rods and it gives much more wiggle room.

[jerryls]

That makes sense- Thanks. The new unit has the rods connected though, I'd rather not disturb the boot and all that unless I have to. Someone told me to loosen the driver side engine mount bolts and jack the engine a inch or two to allow the gear to rotate forward.

[bumpinkicker04]

Originally Posted by way2old

We remove the inner tie rods and it gives much more wiggle room.

I replaced mine in a 2001 and that is what we had to do. We used a pipe wrench and took off the inner tie rods and it came right out. I think we had some clearance issues with the oil filter adaper so we took it off too.

[jerryls]

I replaced the gear successfully!! Probably saved $800. Thanks to everyone's help, especially Rod for the service instructions. I ended up jacking the engine, removing the oil filter mounting adapter and still needed to take the left inner tie rod off. The inner tie rod was the key. I think if I took that off first, maybe I would not have to jack the engine etc. Anyhow, I recommend to anyone needing to replace the R&P gear, to just buy the unit without the inner tie rods as long as your existing ones are not worn or damaged. It's also a bit cheaper.