1997 Vortec 5.7 fuel pump prob!

[mbecke2]

I have 97 350 5.7L and recently I was driving and it killed while I was coming to a stop. It wouldn't start up again and now it is sitting in my driveway cause I haven't had time to work on it. Anyway I sprayed starting fluid in the intake and it fired right up. The fuel pump is not kicking on at all when I turn the key. Just replaced the fuel filter and thats not the prob. Is there anything else I can check besides the relay for a quick fix before I take the bed off and replace the ACTUAL fuel pump which takes me like 3 days. I want to check all the easy stuff before I go to work on that damn pump. Getting to the tank is HELL!!

[Blue Bowtie]

Since you mentioned it, I presume you've already checked the relay for power and proper operation. If not, that's easiest and fastest. If there is power at the relay socket, and the relay operates correctly, and there is power after the relay when it is energized, move on back toward the pump.

You can test for power at the pump connector located at the forward edge of the left rear wheel opening, right along the frame. There is also a pump ground connection to the frame crossmember within inches of the power connector. Make sure the ground is intact and there is voltage at the pump connector with the pump plugged in. Backprobe the connector to test for voltage. You may have to insert a jumper in the relay socket to provide constant power to the pump.

For my purposes, removing the box is the more difficult way to change the pump. Remove the fill pipe (which you would have to do even if you removed the bed). Loosen the two tank straps. Remove the fuel supply, return, and vent lines from the top of the tank (which you would also have to do if you removed the bed). Disconnect the pump and fuel gauge electrical connector and remove the tank (same either way) . Remove the pump insert, replace the pump, and reassemble. The only difference between the two methods is that you either get to remove the two tank straps or a bunch of bed bolts, braces, and wiring, then find three friends to lift off the bed. If you apply penetrating oil to the tank strap bolts a couple days ahead of time, it's not such a bad job. Use anti-seize on the tank strap bolts when installing them, just in case you have to do it again. I live in the middle of the salt belt, and the one I did last fall was not that big a problem since the original tank bolts are Stalgard coated.

Yes, pumps ARE available separately. Look for a AC/Delco EP381 or a Master E3270 ($68.88 about ten months ago). The last '97 I did (a Sierra, but same difference) took about 3½ hours with no lift, and only a floor jack and stands to raise the truck and lower the tank.

[777stickman]

Sounds like you've done this before?? 1st thing is to check for that 2-3 sec 12v pulse at the fuel pump connector on the grey wire when the key is turned on. If you've got it then you need to check for a good ground on the black wire. If all that's good then start pulling the bed and put an AC-Delco pump in. If you don't have that 2-3 sec 12v pulse on the grey wire post back and we'll try to help you trace it back..............Steve

[mbecke2]

Thanks alot for the help! It was in fact the fuel pump, but boy was it ALOT easier this time around. With the help of the wonderful IMPACT wrench I was able to remove the bed and get to the pump very easily. Only one person helped and it took about 3 hrs all together. RUNS AGAIN!!! IM HAPPY!! Thanks again!

[777stickman]

You are welcome for what ever we helped with and we thank you for posting back...........Steve

[alabass]

I've replaced the pump on a couple of pickups and removing the bed is definitely the way to go.