Aurora Engine stalling

[Auror_AH]

Well I really thought my stalling problem had gone away. Although recently I found if I go over a large bump or railroad tracks the car stalls out. The service engine light comes on as the car dies out and then thats that. I have no problem restarting the car and everything is normal again. Also this only seems to happen the first maybe 10 minutes in the car or however long it takes to warm up. Once the temp gauge is sitting at about 180-200 it rides beautifully with no problems(except that lingering idle problem...)

[pfflyer46]

I had the post about stalling at 70mph but now it stalls out at any speed. Will restart after letting it set for a couple of minutes but only to stall again a short distance down the road. The mech. drove it around for 4hrs before he could get it to stall and then the code he got was related to no ignition signal. This problem just started, car only has 80k on it. This is truly frustrating

[RickyZ]

I disconnected the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC). RPM's only increased slightly but stalling went away completely! Removed valve (very easy) and cleaned it and passages (as far as I could get). Was extremely carbonized. Re-installed and re-connected. Car still stalled. Disconnected and ran fine. Looking into replacing the IAC valve. $97 at Olds but best price I've found is $63 with free shipping.

[RickyZ]

Originally Posted by RickyZ

I disconnected the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC). RPM's only increased slightly but stalling went away completely! Removed valve (very easy) and cleaned it and passages (as far as I could get). Was extremely carbonized. Re-installed and re-connected. Car still stalled. Disconnected and ran fine. Looking into replacing the IAC valve. $97 at Olds but best price I've found is $63 with free shipping.

Well forget what I just said! It still stalls with the IAC valve removed but not as often. Also, the stalls are more severe. Disconnected, it stalls without any warning. Connected, the IAC valve tries to recover the stall so there is a warning. ANYONE have any thoughts??

[mike98c]

Well not all problems with stalling are caused by a bad Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) BUT it IS the numberone cause of the car dying suddenly at idle, and if it gets bad enough the car will be hard to sart when it's been run, warmed up and then sits for a couple of hours. It may also backfire occasionally. FPR is easy to diagnose. Pull hose off the little oil can connected to the fuel rail underneath the engines beauty cover after the car has sat for just a little while and if you see or smell any fuel the diaphram inside is bad. Start the car with the hose pointed away and if it's in really bad shape you'll see fuel drip out.
This is an easy fix if this is the problem for some of you. Ten minutes to replace part, between sixty and seventyfive dollars for the little FPR. A lot of dealers will charge you one hundred fifty dollars or more for this repair assuming they even diagnose it immediatly before they throw parts at the car,

[mike98c]

One other thought. You can get the codes scanned for free at Autozone. If EGR shows up, don't buy a new one until you try cleaning the old valve. If you canm free up the shaft and clean out the passages the valve will usually work fine. Just don't get solvent into the motor (can) on top of the valve.

[Rachee150]

my car had the same prob...i took it to the shop 2 times...and they couldnt figure it out the first time, so i brought it back again and they ended up needing to put a new computer in my car. Its had the new computer for a couple months and hasnt stalled since.

[pas30339]

This describes exactly my problem. I'm going to replace my FPR and report the results for future users as well.

[sf4013]

MY dealer after trying several things changed my spark plug wires. They said they were arching. Admittedly a small shop changed them a year ago. Car hasn't stalled in days.
Believe it or not the delear didn't charge for the wires or labor.!! They really were great.
Hope this helps.

[discouraged]

I have a '95 that had the identical stalling problems. Was solved by replacing all 8 injectors and pressure regulator and major tune-up including new PCV valve. (Costly -$2100).

[pas30339]

My mecahnic said my FPR was staying slightly open due to some foreign matter. He cleaned it out and there has been a noticible improvement in performance. Unfortunately no resolution of my stalling issue.

I notice the stalling most when the car downshifts from second to first while making a turn. Also, the long crank for statup after the car is warmed up persist.

One note: my mechanic did tell me that replacing the FPR was not recommended as the entire fuel-rai & FPR are a single assembly. Well, I had the fuel rail replaced 40,000 miles ago...to a tune of $1300.00. Suffice it to say I'll be replacing the FPR before the fuel rail, assembly or not.

I hate driving a car that I feel at any moment will croak!

[Chuckk1]

THE STALLING HAS STOPPED!!! After replacing the second ignition module (first one went 4 years ago), the stalls are no more. I'm guessing there was an intermittent / short in the bad module. Two more modules to go (at $450 each) - if she lasts that long. 127,000 miles to date.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by Chuckk1

THE STALLING HAS STOPPED!!! After replacing the second ignition module (first one went 4 years ago), the stalls are no more. I'm guessing there was an intermittent / short in the bad module. Two more modules to go (at $450 each) - if she lasts that long. 127,000 miles to date.

Thanks for posting the update. However, since this is an old thread and the issue appears to have been resolved time to lay this to rest. Thread closed.