1537 / 1538 Codes & IMRC

[Loogie]

Originally Posted by rtoddharris

There is a PCM activated switch on the rear side (near the firewall) of the engine. This switch could be bad, you can check to see if you have vacuum to it. You have to get back behind the engine, which for me meant taking apart the front cowling (the black plastic piece that the windshield wipers come out from). The switch should allow vacuum to go to the IMRC actuators at idle.

This Switch that the IMRC Vacuum Line goes to, is there also a Vacuum Line that goes to a Vacuum Reservoir? If so there is no Vacuum at this switch for the IMRC Valves. Does this mean this Switch Needs replacing?

[Freakzilla69]

It seems my new manifold gaskets are still leaking, I think I might need to try the 4mm set instead of the 3mm ones that are on now.

[busboy4]

Originally Posted by Loogie

This Switch that the IMRC Vacuum Line goes to, is there also a Vacuum Line that goes to a Vacuum Reservoir? If so there is no Vacuum at this switch for the IMRC Valves. Does this mean this Switch Needs replacing?

Hi
I am dealing now with IMRC problems too. My actuators hold vacuum, they just are not getting any. I too suspect the device you describe which I believe is called the IMRC vacuum solenoid. On my van, the route of vacuum to the imrc's is: a red line to the vacuum reservoir on the right fender well, then a black line to the solenoid, then a yellow/ white line to the IMRC's. I have only been able to do cursory analysis, but I think you should have good vacuum at the control solenoid (from the reservoir - black line in my case) any time the engine is running. The solenoid should have 12v power with the ignition in run according to my manual. I believe it is a "normally open" valve allowing vacuum to the IMRC's most of the time, until the PCM sends a close signal - I believe votage 0 - to the solenoid allowing the IMRC's to close. I have an email in to trademotion.com to try and figure out what the part is actually called.
If you do not have vacuum at the switch, I think your problem is further up stream, i.e. a leak or detached hose.

[busboy4]

Originally Posted by busboy4

Hi
I am dealing now with IMRC problems too. My actuators hold vacuum, they just are not getting any. I too suspect the device you describe which I believe is called the IMRC vacuum solenoid. On my van, the route of vacuum to the imrc's is: a red line to the vacuum reservoir on the right fender well, then a black line to the solenoid, then a yellow/ white line to the IMRC's. I have only been able to do cursory analysis, but I think you should have good vacuum at the control solenoid (from the reservoir - black line in my case) any time the engine is running. The solenoid should have 12v power with the ignition in run according to my manual. I believe it is a "normally open" valve allowing vacuum to the IMRC's most of the time, until the PCM sends a close signal - I believe votage 0 - to the solenoid allowing the IMRC's to close. I have an email in to trademotion.com to try and figure out what the part is actually called.
If you do not have vacuum at the switch, I think your problem is further up stream, i.e. a leak or detached hose.

Just wanted to follow up. I have ordered the IMRC solenoid. My local parts lady finally ran it down by looking at a diagram of the intake manifold and running down the part number that way. Said her dealership has never sold one! Ford part number is: f1hz9h465A. $38 from y2kford.com

[Coltzfan1963]

Thanks Todd,
I just had to do this to my Windstar. It's working better now but I think I still must bypass the IMRC sensor on the forward bank. I My plastic clip broke also and the rod is not connected but the spring is doing the job, so I think the code will come back unless I bypass the electronics going to the actuator. I have emmisions coming up soon so I want to get this done with. Can I just use a jumper to bypass the signal?

[rtoddharris]

Originally Posted by Coltzfan1963

Thanks Todd,
I just had to do this to my Windstar. It's working better now but I think I still must bypass the IMRC sensor on the forward bank. I My plastic clip broke also and the rod is not connected but the spring is doing the job, so I think the code will come back unless I bypass the electronics going to the actuator. I have emmisions coming up soon so I want to get this done with. Can I just use a jumper to bypass the signal?

I just left the electrical connection on the removed actuator. I do not get any error codes from this.

[wiswind]

The heat issue with the air going only to the defrost (windshield) is likely related.
Where the air goes control is vaccum driven.
The vaccum comes from the rear of the upper intake manifold, passenger side.
It goes to a black box on the passenger side inner fender......which is a resevoir to hold some vaccum when th engine is OFF.
Then a vaccum line goes from the box through the firewall to the silver bulbs and such to control and drive the doors that direct the air.

The temperature control is separate, it is a blend door that is driven by an electric motor.

[jatpapa]

I have 1996 Windstar, 3.8 ltrs. It has almost over 225 k,s on it. It ran very well till last few months I noticed engine light on and it has started guzzling gas like a hungry hippo. On the scan the codes are 1537 IMRC bank one stuck open. But the problem is the macanichs have no idea what is wrong. The dealer wants 250 for the new scan only and might not be able to pin point the prblem. The van does stall while turning slowly on front or in reverse. Can please any body help me.

Thanks

jatpapa

[wiswind]

A temporary fix, that will still keep the engine light on, is to, carefully, tie the rear bank open.....they are held OPEN when the engine is off.
This should help with the fuel consumption issue.


You should make sure that it can physically move from the open to the closed position.

If Rear (bank 1) will move closed without binding and the linkage with the actuator is intact, then the most likely cause is that the actuator is defective.

I would make sure to get a genuine Motorcraft replacement actuator, as some have posted that they have had issues with the rebuilt ones that they bought.
They are expensive, so you might try an online source, which is usually a FORD dealership that has put their parts department online.
y2kford is a good one in the Seattle area...but I do not know if they ship to Canada or not.

[DRW1000]

I know a lot of people don't see the point of these IMRC. Basically longer intake runners help produce torque. Their lengths are such that the pressure wave produced when the valve suddenly shuts travels from end to end and is timed to be at the valve the next time it opens. - I know this is a poor explanation.

The trouble is that the longer the intake runner more resistance there is to airflow. This is not a problem at lower RPMs but restricts airflow at higher RPMs. This is why the IMRCs open(?) at higher RPMs to allow airflow to use a shorter path.

[soldonpatti]

we tried this both ways open/ then closed and blocking the vacume lines. Neither worked for us. We had code 1538 now we have code 1537/p401. It was worth a shot. Our cruise control not working and we were told that was the problem. But one of the butterflys not working and there seems to be no/low vacume. hey we'll keep looking thanks for the post.