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  #1  
Old 03-25-2007, 04:48 PM
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okokko... Culprit is....

Totally burnt valve on #3, semi burnt valve on #5.

Going to take the heads in and have them redone. All else looks decent.. pistons are a little carbon-ed up, but probably just clean'em off and let'em eat.

Having looked at the bearings and all yet, Will probably do that one night this week coming up or next weekend.

Probably going to repaint engine and heads Red... Chrome Manifold and Carb, new hoses (maybe braided, not sure yet).

Will post progress.


(Anyone have any recommendations on what to use to strip the paint off the block, etc?)
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Old 03-25-2007, 05:26 PM
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Re: okokko... Culprit is....

if your going to be completely dissaembling the engine, send it to a mchine shop and have em tank it and install new plugs in it, it isnt expensive and takes everything off
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Old 03-25-2007, 05:52 PM
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Re: okokko... Culprit is....

yeah, tanked and/or media blasted on the outside.

paint it Hugger orange.. mmm..

cast aluminium valve covers, semi-polished intake.
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Old 03-25-2007, 09:03 PM
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Re: okokko... Culprit is....

Just make sure its high heat paint. Another thought is why did those valves burn?
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Old 03-26-2007, 09:32 AM
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Re: okokko... Culprit is....

Well... everything else seems to be in pretty good shape. My buddy said what I called "sludge" is a little dirt, not actual sludge... called me a big fat newbie, which I can't deny. Strip it, paint it, do the stuff that I want to... send the heads out, have them painted the same color, put it back to gether and let it go.

I believe I'm going to opt on the side of frugality... not getting block tanked. freeze plugs were recently done, lifters are brand spanking new, and everything inside under the heads appears to be ok. Piston heads are a little carboned up, but nothing serious... at least that's what he said. (Having 14 old cars and doing all the engine work himself... I put some weight on what he says.)

I AM going to replace oil pump, water pump, (maybe pushrods because I mixed them up... yeah I know), manifold, carb, headers, and plumbing. When I do the oil pump, I'll check the bearings, etc. and replace them if they need it.

(Honestly, I'd like to have it takned and redone from the bottom up, BUT it's not having it tanked that's expensive... it's putting it back together with all the new shit....right?)

I'll see if I can post pic's - maybe somebody will find them useful, or be able to tell me something I'm missing.
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Old 03-26-2007, 09:36 AM
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Re: okokko... Culprit is....

Just spoke to machine shop... said without looking... Valves are burnt because someone cut them too thin... can replace them for $12 a piece.

WOOOOHOOOO! (I don't have to do anything and get them back in a week or so!)
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Old 03-26-2007, 12:50 PM
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Re: okokko... Culprit is....

bearings are the kind of thing were if they have even like 1000m of use on em if you have it apart, replace em
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Best ET 1/4: 8.35 @ 170mph (275 drag radial)
Best ET 1/8: 5.44 @ 132mph (275 drag radial)
Best 60': 1.31 on the back tires (275 drag radial)

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Old 03-26-2007, 06:01 PM
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Re: okokko... Culprit is....

You have it apart, once you start pulling bearing caps most of the work is done anyway, might as well change the bearings. That only leaves rings, pistons if you bore the block, and oil seals. Might as well do all of the job if you are going that far. Just make sure you use the right plastigage to check your bearing clearances.
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  #9  
Old 03-26-2007, 08:49 PM
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Re: okokko... Culprit is....

It's not the work that's expensive... Especially considering I'm going to have someone helping me do it. Bearings, pushrods, rings, etc are bad enough, but having the block prepared isn't a 5$ job, or is it?

Cylinders need to be honed, so I'd rather not pull them out, especially if the valves were the problem in the first place.

Believe me guys, I'd like to do all that stuff, but I think I"m up to about $1400 in engine stuff alone (headers $300, Carb $400, intake manifold $250, oil pump $120, Water pump $200 plumbing and bolts ~ $150), and that's not even going to make it drivable... still gotta do the interior (gauges, dash, etc). If replacing the bearings, having the block tanked, the clyinders honed, etc is gonna be like $50-100 then maybe I'll do it depending on how much the bearing, rods, etc cost to replace. But I have a feeling that all that is gonna be too much.
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Old 03-26-2007, 09:10 PM
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Re: okokko... Culprit is....

Most of the block prep can be done yourself. You can hone cylinders, just get the tool for it at an auto parts store or rent the tool. It mounts in a drill and they usually come with instructions. Bearings are fairly inexpensive, I think around $100 for the full set, mains and rods. Seals aren't that bad, but what is the killer is pistons for a big block. I did a 350 4bolt main for about $900 for the entire kit, rings bearings, valves, gaskets, etc. Price kits before you start buying parts, might be able to save some money.
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Old 03-26-2007, 09:26 PM
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Re: okokko... Culprit is....

I personally wouldn't suggest trying to hone the cylinders yourself. Really easy to mess up and really expensive to fix, that is, if the block isn't ruined itself. But you would have to resleeve it if you messed it up. And I've heard that's expensive.
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Old 03-26-2007, 10:57 PM
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Re: okokko... Culprit is....

Quote:
Really easy to mess up and really expensive to fix
Which is why I ain't messing with it... if the pistons and such are fine, no reason to mess with them.

I am doing the seals, etc everything that has to be done, but if anything is ok as is... its staying that way.

I figure it this way... I'll know how to take the engine out and apart for next time. WHICH by the way, will probably be a swap for something a little less radical. Or I might sell RD and get my money back and start anew with something older.

Or I might just buy a fucking bike and be done with it.


EDIT - I did price out some kits.. but not sure exactly what I need at this point. I'm gonna geta whole new set of bolts, just because the ones that were on it were mis-matched and the heads were rounded. When I peek at the bottom I"ll have a better idea.

Anyone have a good way to mark the lifters so I put them back in the right places?
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Old 03-26-2007, 11:37 PM
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Re: okokko... Culprit is....

so is the okokok trend coming back or is this a new one... okokko?


haha just screwing with you
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Old 03-27-2007, 12:49 AM
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Re: okokko... Culprit is....

Quote:
Originally Posted by poormillionaire2
I personally wouldn't suggest trying to hone the cylinders yourself. Really easy to mess up and really expensive to fix, that is, if the block isn't ruined itself. But you would have to resleeve it if you messed it up. And I've heard that's expensive.
honing is far from hard, a monkey will a good ball hone can do it, get a full gasket kit and a set of head bolts, take a serious look at the timing chain too, bearings like i said, but please just plastigage them, it dosnt take long and gives you piece of mind, make a tray for the lifter and mark the front and just put them in the tray as they would be in the engine(separated by wood or plastic or something, or do what i do wipe off the oil and get out the ole sharpy and assuming you know which cylinders are which # label them 1I 1E, 2I 2E etc...
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Best ET 1/4: 8.35 @ 170mph (275 drag radial)
Best ET 1/8: 5.44 @ 132mph (275 drag radial)
Best 60': 1.31 on the back tires (275 drag radial)

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Old 03-27-2007, 10:46 AM
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Re: okokko... Culprit is....

I would like to say 'Poor' has honing mixed up with ridge reaming (which still isn't that bad.)
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