spark plug removal advice

D-ranger97 · #1 03-11-2007, 12:10 AM

i have a 97 ford ranger and i was giving it a tune up in my auto tech. class in school. i got to the 4th hole and when i took off the boot i saw that the plug had actully rusted itself to the head. all of the shop teachers in my school said they have seen some bad plugs but this was the worst by far. im looking for advice as to how i can remove this plug without pulling the head. right now im just soaking it with pb blaster everyday and tring to pick off some rust. if anyone can suggest any alternative solution it would be helpful.

manlystanley · #2 03-13-2007, 05:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D-ranger97

i have a 97 ford ranger and i was giving it a tune up in my auto tech. class in school. i got to the 4th hole and when i took off the boot i saw that the plug had actully rusted itself to the head. all of the shop teachers in my school said they have seen some bad plugs but this was the worst by far. im looking for advice as to how i can remove this plug without pulling the head. right now im just soaking it with pb blaster everyday and tring to pick off some rust. if anyone can suggest any alternative solution it would be helpful.

Let me tell what I'd do (for what its worth--since I'm not a mechanic). I'd spray on a whole bunch of the best lubricant that you can find. I like PB blaster myself. Wait a while and then try to work it out. Also, check out the below link.

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...AAapa3P&show=7

Best Regards,
Stan

DonSor · #3 03-13-2007, 07:20 PM

Is the problem the plug is hard to unscrew? Can you fit a six-sided plug socket and try to turn it without stripping? If the socket free wheels around the plug and the ceramic is busted, you may land up pulling the head out.
Advise to all. Most vehicles warranty their plugs for 100,000 miles. I guess with the Iridium and Platinum plugs that is possible. However, manufacturers don't take into account plugs rusting out in the head just like what happended to you. What I do I is to "sound" (crack and retighten) my plugs every 60K miles to minimize the possibility of the plugs seizing in their ports.

D-ranger97 · #4 03-15-2007, 08:29 PM

i actually just bought the truck last month. now i could shoot myself for not checking those plugs. if you look at the plug it almost looks like the plug and head are bonded together.i have been soaking it in pb for a while now and managed to get some of the rust off but i still cant fit a socket over the nut there is to much rust.

DonSor · #5 03-16-2007, 10:35 AM

From what you are describing, the rust is around the outside of the plug and blocking the bottom of the well. Good possibility is that the plug socket is not stripped which what you want. Have tried soaking the well with a rust remover? See if you can chip away at the rest whereby you can fit a plug socket into the plug. Make sure you use a six-sided plug socket. Once you can snugly fit the socket around the plug, I think that it will come off.

D-ranger97 · #6 03-24-2007, 12:06 AM

well good news i got the plug out but it gave a hell of a fight. what we did was a little "back yard" but its out with no damge to the head. i got all the rust off the plug but some of the nut went with it. the plug size was a 5/8 but we used a 6 sided 9/16 and pounded it on and hit it very gingerly with a 1/2 in drive impact. we found that the plug had actually rusted to the head by the seat of the plug and not down in the threads. but the impact ripped the plug in two and the threads were still in the head. the only thing that came out was the electrode. we had to use an easy out and some heat to get the threads out. thanks for ure help everyone i appriciate it.

p.s. my auto tech techer is the best mechanic i know lol

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