Code P1361 Returned and Completely Cuts Out on Bumpy Roads

[Smith1000]

About a month and a half ago, my 97 Lesabre was cutting out and dying completely at times. It was a complete ignition cut out as opposed to just one cylinder. The tach completely dropped out as well when it happened. It registered code P1361 (ignition control circuit low voltage). The cut out occurred at idle or when driving. The tach would jump or drop out simultaneous with the power loss.

I swapped out the ignition module and coils with that out of our other 97 Lesabre (have 2 of them). This didn't change anything. It still had the problem with the coils and ignition module out of the other Lesabre. I also ran some bypass wires from the ignition module to the computer thinking it may have been a bad wire. I never did exactly pin point the problem other than I know it was worse on bumpy roads (live on a gravel road and they put new gravel down). I believe it has to do with one of the relays in the relay center on the firewall. At one point, it seemed like if I moved the relay center up and down (jiggle), it would die. Didn't seem to do it every time though. Also, pulled some fuses on the right of the glove box and replaced them, pushing them in tightly. Whatever I did to it at the time stopped the problem for about a month and a half (over 1,200 miles).

Today it started doing it again though. The problem returned on a bumpy section of the road. It has registered code P1361 about 4 times. Cleared the codes and it registered it one more time. After jiggling the relays and fuses, it ran fine for several miles. When I shut it off and restarted, it did it again for a moment.

Does anyone know if there is a certain relay, fuse or wire in the relay center or fusebox that may be the source for this type of problem? Maybe it is the key or ignition that is wearing out. Could a relay be bad for the ignition? It has about 162,000 miles on it. Otherwise, when running, it runs great. Thanks.

[Smith1000]

I am reading some wiring diagrams. I noticed today that sometimes the tach signal drops out yet the power doesn't cut out. Other times the engine ignition power cuts out all together engine and tach read drops out also. It is intermittant and is off then back on for long spells. Looks like the tach signal does not run through the PCM per the wiring diagrams. Says white wire goes to instrument cluster directly to the tach from the ignition module. I know my crank pos sensor and cam pos sensor are good. I replaced them about 2 months agao. I think the ignition module is intermittantly losing its power source at the relay center or at the "hot at run" position in the ignition switch. Book says power source is the pink wire, fuse 6, 20A (relay center). Grounds are good as I cleaned them a while back. I bet it is powering out at this relay. I'll find the relay and take a look at it or swap it out. I may run a test bulb into the cab to see what the pink wire source of power does when it cuts out. The bulb will probably go off too. I hope it is the fuse and not the ignition switch in run position. I think to replace the ignition switch, the steering wheel must come off.

[Smith1000]

It is not the ignition switch or the fuse that is in the relay center. I have been monitoring the power to the ignition module through the pink/blk wire for that last 2 days. When it cuts out, it still is receiving full power to the ignition module. If I follow error code P1361, I need to look at the white wire from the ignition module to the PCM for the "ignition control" circuit . If not this wire, it could be the "by-pass" wire which is tan/blk. One of these wires has a short or ground or else the PCM is bad. Probably a bad PCM if not the white wire. I'll replace these wires in the morning. If it still does it, I am fairly sure I will need a PCM. I can buy a remanufactured PCm for $127 from Advanced Auto. My question right now is: Will it work out of the box or do I have to have it programmed somewhere? If so, how much will the programming cost? The computer has no PROM, so it possibly needs programming. I wonder, though, if it would work out of the box? It could because there can't be much of a difference in programming.

[Smith1000]

Replaced the white wire from the ignition module to the PCM. It seems to be fixed, but I'll give it a few days. It may return.

[Smith1000]

I have driven it about 350 miles and the problem has not come back. It hasn't cut out even once, so I am assuming it is fixed.

[slicktree]

I was wondering if you rid yourself of this code??? I have a 96 lumina 3.1 with the same code (P1361) & I was thinking about replacing the same wire you replaced. My car has one difference from your symptoms.....no starting or driving issues. I wouldn't have known there was an issue except for the MIL.

[Bassasasin]

ON the PCM question, You normally just swap the prom over to the new unit. .no programming.. the car relearns its personal start settings best after a few starts.

Could you see any problems with the wire?

I have heard of the ignition module's connector going bad.. Also there is a mid engine connector under the alternator with that line in it going back to the firewall. There's also the firewall connection and to me is more suspicious since the engine connectors have their own vibrations to worry about.

Hope its fixed.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by slicktree

I was wondering if you rid yourself of this code??? I have a 96 lumina 3.1 with the same code (P1361) & I was thinking about replacing the same wire you replaced. My car has one difference from your symptoms.....no starting or driving issues. I wouldn't have known there was an issue except for the MIL.

Sorry but please do not resurrect old threads and review the sticky advisory concerning old threads. This thread has been closed.

Post your problem at Chevy Lumina. Also, do a search for DTC 1361 and 1362 which are well addressed at various GM forums.