Can't Remove Nut to change serpentine belt

[kapinossa]

Looking for some help to remove a rusted nut on my 96 Bonneville SE (3.8L non turbo) to allow me to change the serpentine belt. I have read the forum for hours for the proper procedure to change the belt without success. I know that the star ended stud must be removed to allow the engine mount spacer to drop out and allow the belt to go around the engine mount leg. It is the "18mm hex nut" on the end of the stud that I think needs to be removed prior to loosening and removing the stud bolt. According to the information I found, the procedure is as follows:
1. Remove engine mount bracket nut.
2. Remove engine mount stud with the E-10 end.
3. Remove engine mount spacer, which can be tough to get back in.
I was wondering if this nut is welded to the engine mount bracket or is the nut left hand threaded? I have tried several treatments of rust penetrator (PCB?) from Advanced Auto prior to trying to loosening the nut counterclockwise using extensions and a 15 inch breaker bar. I have even tried my impact wrench at almost full power using counterclockwise rotation without any movement. I am worried that if I ring off the nut and stud, a significant repair will likely result due it's location. I need to replace the belt due to a tensioner pulley failure that damaged the belt. I was looking for suggestions on how to remove the rusted nut or if I am using the wrong procedures for the belt replacement.
Thanks in advance, Steve
1996 Bonneville SE 3.8L (non turbo)

[Bassasasin]

Can you put some heat to it..

My 3.8 turbo belt comes off without taking off the motor mount.

But taking mine off for another reason was pretty tight also..
I think I can remember holding the other end for some reason.

Or you might be able to slip the mount up off the frame bolts.. I believe alot of models have a V they set in and just to loosten and jack up the engine carefully might give you clearance.

Quite a pain..


Good Luck

[ChemMan]

When I took my belt off, I tried removing the nut, and the whole thing came out. The stud and nut are definitely separate on my 97. If it's stuck that bad you really need to try putting a torch on it until cherry red and then loosening it. Good Luck. Oh, and as an idiot check, (which I need to do all the time!) make sure you are turning the correct nut.

[kapinossa]

ChemMan, Thanks for the suggestion about heat. Location of nut is in a tight space and I have never used heat before on any of my cars. I currently don't own a source or supply for a torch. Do you have a suggestion for a inexpensive method? OBTW, I am sure I am on the right bolt since it has a star ended stud on the end with the nut. Thanks for the thoughts, Steve

[kapinossa]

Bassasasin, Thanks for you thoughts. Bad news, I don't have heat and it is in a tight spot. But looking for any specific suggestions/methods to put heat on it if you have any. Thanks, Steve

[ChemMan]

Sears, Walmart, etc. all sell propane torches. You could go with MAPP gas for a hotter flame(don't ask me what's in MAPP gas). Depending on how handy you are it shouldn't be too hard to do. Just make absolutely sure nothing flammable is nearby!! If in doubt, move it. Definitely remove the battery!!!!!!! I can't stress that enough. Major BOOM factor there!!! Push any wires out of the way, and try not to heat up the A/C lines. The nut, stud and motor mount are going to be hot, hot, hot. Have gloves handy too. Use (un?)common sense. If you really don't feel comfortable doing this then look into having someone else help you or do it for you. If you have someone around to second check you that would most likely be enough. Once you get the nut hot put your breaker bar on it and hopefully it will give.

Good Luck.

Oh, make sure you read the instructions that come with the torch.

[kapinossa]

ChemMan, Thanks for the detail instructions. Will try to make a run at it this weekend. This sounds like an option. Thanks, Steve

[kapinossa]

Thanks for the suggestions on removing the frozen nut. Last weekend I finally tried to remove the 18mm nut again. This time, it was one week since I spayed it with Blaster rust stuff. Using a large breaker bar without heat, I was finally able to losen the bolt on the engine stud bolt with CCW torque. The nut came off, then I was able to remove the star ended stud with a significant amount of CCW torque. I was surprised that the nut and stud were both without much rust after I removed them. However, the engine spacer had to be removed downward since there was a small nut on the engine which would not allow upward movement of the spacer for removal. Removal of the spacer was allot easier than putting the spacer back in. Even though the spacer slide up and down almost the full diameter of the spacer when trying to remove it, it still had to be pulled down very hard to get it pass the engine bracket leg that finally gave a little to get it out. Thanks again for all the help, and my bonneville is finally back on the road with 187,000 miles. Steve