HVAC Control Head

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by weaselphd

if i remove the blower motor and apply 12v is that a safe test to rule it out?

Yes, you can apply 12v to see if it turns but I'd do that with the blower motor out. It will also give you the opportunity to move the squirrel cage by hand to see if it is bound up.

[weaselphd]

Originally Posted by bnaylor3400

Yes, you can apply 12v to see if it turns but I'd do that with the blower motor out. It will also give you the opportunity to move the squirrel cage by hand to see if it is bound up.

well it seems that the only place that has the resister is online for 18.99, takes about a week to get unless i want to get by the dealer and pay 44.99. the blower motor and cage is 89.99. here is my question assuming that the both items are bad and i get the new motor can i bypass the resistor to have the fan run full time until the new resistor gets here.

Michael

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by weaselphd

well it seems that the only place that has the resister is online for 18.99, takes about a week to get unless i want to get by the dealer and pay 44.99. the blower motor and cage is 89.99. here is my question assuming that the both items are bad and i get the new motor can i bypass the resistor to have the fan run full time until the new resistor gets here.

Michael

Test your blower first. If it doesn't turn, then it is the problem and you may not have to worry about a blower motor resistor.

If both the motor and resistor are bad I wouldn't take any chance by bypassing the BMR. Some of the resistors are in bad shape (fried) and make take out your new blower motor.

[weaselphd]

Originally Posted by bnaylor3400

Test your blower first. If it doesn't turn, then it is the problem and you may not have to worry about a blower motor resistor.

If both the motor and resistor are bad I wouldn't take any chance by bypassing the BMR. Some of the resistors are in bad shape (fried) and make take out your new blower motor.

Hey im ecstatic! It was the Blower Motor Resistor! I cannot thank you enough for your help in diagnosing this issue. I tested the fan she worked, so I made it up to the dealer 5 min before closing and got the resister from them, unfortunately its ACDELCO which means ill prolly order the aftermarket one made by WELLS and keep it on hand, it was only 18 bucks. I paid 44 at the dealer. anyway I have attached 2 pictures of the bad resistor, for reference, I think who ever designed this system didn’t take in account for the condensation created by the A/C because you can see the rust on the resistor and the fan blower housing... oh well.. It works! I wish I could buy you a round of drinks for your help!!!!


Thanks sooo much!

Michael

[weaselphd]

Originally Posted by weaselphd

Hey im ecstatic! It was the Blower Motor Resistor! I cannot thank you enough for your help in diagnosing this issue. I tested the fan she worked, so I made it up to the dealer 5 min before closing and got the resister from them, unfortunately its ACDELCO which means ill prolly order the aftermarket one made by WELLS and keep it on hand, it was only 18 bucks. I paid 44 at the dealer. anyway I have attached 2 pictures of the bad resistor, for reference, I think who ever designed this system didn’t take in account for the condensation created by the A/C because you can see the rust on the resistor and the fan blower housing... oh well.. It works! I wish I could buy you a round of drinks for your help!!!!


Thanks sooo much!

Michael

So here we are not even a year later and POS AC delco junk dies again! again the Blower Motor resistor dies, after being screwed at the dealer 44 bucks for this junk. ordered a replacement from Autozone 18.99 made by WELLS, i swear i cannot wait to get rid of this lemmon of a car! anyway now that im done crying i wanted to post this incase someone else needs one DO NOT BUY DEALER OEM JUNK PARTS! go to autozone.com part number DR783 made by WELLS. they didnt carry it in the store unfortunately.

good luck!

Michael

[weaselphd]

I was wondering i am currently replacing this stupid blower motor resistor for the 5th time this year, i replace it and it runs good for a couple months then it starts to lose, sections 1 then 2 then 3,4,5 till it no longer functions, i have replaced it and the cycle starts again. here is my question this is a pain to keep replacing every couple months, WHAT could possibly be causing this resistor to burn out? could the blower motor itself have a short or something that is electrically frying this resistor, or would this issue take place prior to the resistor? and is there an easy way to track down this problem?

thanks
Michael

Originally Posted by weaselphd

Hey im ecstatic! It was the Blower Motor Resistor! I cannot thank you enough for your help in diagnosing this issue. I tested the fan she worked, so I made it up to the dealer 5 min before closing and got the resister from them, unfortunately its ACDELCO which means ill prolly order the aftermarket one made by WELLS and keep it on hand, it was only 18 bucks. I paid 44 at the dealer. anyway I have attached 2 pictures of the bad resistor, for reference, I think who ever designed this system didn’t take in account for the condensation created by the A/C because you can see the rust on the resistor and the fan blower housing... oh well.. It works! I wish I could buy you a round of drinks for your help!!!!


Thanks sooo much!

Michael

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by weaselphd

I was wondering i am currently replacing this stupid blower motor resistor for the 5th time this year, i replace it and it runs good for a couple months then it starts to lose, sections 1 then 2 then 3,4,5 till it no longer functions, i have replaced it and the cycle starts again. here is my question this is a pain to keep replacing every couple months, WHAT could possibly be causing this resistor to burn out? could the blower motor itself have a short or something that is electrically frying this resistor, or would this issue take place prior to the resistor? and is there an easy way to track down this problem?

thanks
Michael

I hate to be the bringer of bad new but it sounds like your ignition switch needs replacement. This is one of the classic symptoms especially since you are going through so many blower motor resistors.

What happens is the contacts carbon up and act like a big resistor causing the current in the overall circuit to go up. Also, the contacts arc out which causes electrical component damage.

The ignition switch and harness runs around $100-$125 at the dealer. Actually it is easy to replace DIY and save money on labor costs. Checkout our new Tips and Maintenance subforum which has a R&R procedure to replace it. Good luck.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...lay.php?f=2142

[weaselphd]

Ok when you say ignition switch is that the key and harness? thats an odd one.. do they sell these aftermarket?

thanks
Michael

Originally Posted by bnaylor

I hate to be the bringer of bad new but it sounds like your ignition switch needs replacement. This is one of the classic symptoms especially since you are going through so many blower motor resistors.

What happens is the contacts carbon up and act like a big resistor causing the current in the overall circuit to go up. Also, the contacts arc out which causes electrical component damage.

The ignition switch and harness runs around $100-$125 at the dealer. Actually it is easy to replace DIY and save money on labor costs. Checkout our new Tips and Maintenance subforum which has a R&R procedure to replace it. Good luck.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...lay.php?f=2142

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by weaselphd

Ok when you say ignition switch is that the key and harness? thats an odd one.. do they sell these aftermarket?

thanks
Michael

It is called an ignition switch and harness assembly. The contacts are located in the square black module. See pic below. The ignition key cylinder is a separate part and probably does not need to be replaced. These parts are GM dealer only or AC Delco Authorized Parts Stores.

[weaselphd]

If it is carbon buildup, cant the harness be removed and cleaned and reinstalled?

Originally Posted by bnaylor

It is called an ignition switch and harness assembly. The contacts are located in the square black module. See pic below. The ignition key cylinder is a separate part and probably does not need to be replaced. These parts are GM dealer only or AC Delco Authorized Parts Stores.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by weaselphd

If it is carbon buildup, cant the harness be removed and cleaned and reinstalled?

If you are very careful, yes. Alot of people were able to salvage and re-use the ignition switch. The module can be disassembled where you can inspect and clean the electrical contacts. Inside there are cams and springs along with the contacts that have to be placed just right or the switch won't work properly. Worth a try and nothing to lose but all to gain. Good luck.

[richtazz]

Could the resistor problems be caused by water intrusion due to a bad cowl seal? When you dropped the motor out, did you have a puddle of water in the heater box or are all the defective resistors rusted? Installing a cabin air filter from a similar year Regal helps with the water intrusion issue, if this proves to be the case. I didn't read all the posts from the beginning, so if I'm rehashing old topics here, I apologize.

[weaselphd]

Ok thats sounds like a lot of work and my luck it wont work, so i ordered the harness, and the new resistor, they are of course "on order" and as luck would have it, it is freezing rain, snow and 20 degrees here, sooo.. i need to ask one question for a temporary fix.... if i cut the red & black wire off the resistor and wire on a cig. lighter plug so that the fan will operate at full speed until the parts come do your forsee any issues here? the red and black are Posative and Ground right?

thanks
Michael

Originally Posted by bnaylor

If you are very careful, yes. Alot of people were able to salvage and re-use the ignition switch. The module can be disassembled where you can inspect and clean the electrical contacts. Inside there are cams and springs along with the contacts that have to be placed just right or the switch won't work properly. Worth a try and nothing to lose but all to gain. Good luck.

[weaselphd]

No there were no signs of water i think the rust on the original one i replaced was from condensation fro mthe A/C. but great point i will still replace that item as well.

Thanks
Michael

Originally Posted by richtazz

Could the resistor problems be caused by water intrusion due to a bad cowl seal? When you dropped the motor out, did you have a puddle of water in the heater box or are all the defective resistors rusted? Installing a cabin air filter from a similar year Regal helps with the water intrusion issue, if this proves to be the case. I didn't read all the posts from the beginning, so if I'm rehashing old topics here, I apologize.