Locking hubs question

[97cavalier]

Hey, well i am a little new to the ford forum so bare with me plz. I used to have a 79 f100 but i sold it and i loved that body style. So now i have a 76 f150 4x4 with a 390 and a 4 speed. I have a question with locking hubs. I personaly hate them,lol. But if you go mudding, can you keep them locked in if you are ot in 4wd? Or will it hurt something?

[mechhound]

Yes you can. It won't hurt a thing except for the obvious wear from the front tires turning the front axles, u-joints, front differential, and front driveshaft. All that turning isn't as bad as it sounds. If everything is in good condition, you won't really hurt anything. I wouldn't have anything but lockout hubs, given a choice.

[unclebubbles]

I agree with mechhound, i wouldnt have anything else . I never unlock mine once i lock it in, unless im gonna get back on the highway for any length of time. I have basically the same truck, just different running gear. 75 f250 w/390, and im still running the original ujoints and hubs on the front axles. One thing you need to try to avoid, is gassing on it real hard in 4wd, with the wheels turned hard either way. These trucks have ujoints on the front axles, not cv joints, and its not even good for them in the newer trucks.

[97cavalier]

so once you lock them in and you still have the shifter in 2wd is it really in 4? what does locking them do? So basicly don't romp on it in 4wd? Is there something you can upgrade like u joints so i can do this? Because i was going to do some mudding and i will need some power in 4wd. I have a buddy that has a 79 f150 with 302 and he gets on the road in 4low and does 4wd burn outs,lol.

[mechhound]

Originally Posted by 97cavalier

so once you lock them in and you still have the shifter in 2wd is it really in 4? what does locking them do? So basicly don't romp on it in 4wd? Is there something you can upgrade like u joints so i can do this? Because i was going to do some mudding and i will need some power in 4wd. I have a buddy that has a 79 f150 with 302 and he gets on the road in 4low and does 4wd burn outs,lol.

No, is the answer to your first sentence. Once you lock the hubs in, you have the OPTION to put it in 4 wheel drive by just moving your transfer case shift lever. By lockng the hubs in, you connect the front tires to the components I mentioned in my first post. Any more questions, please ask.

[unclebubbles]

No, i guess you misunderstood me. You can romp on it within reason all you want. I said dont gas on it real hard when you have the steering wheel turned hard(like as far as it will go) in either direction. This is hard on the u joints, but dont be afraid to use it. You just dont need wide open throttle, youll never need that anyway with the 390. But it has enuff power to tear everything under there out, front and rear, if you go to jerking and snatching on it. The front hubs free wheel when they arent locked in, so even if you put the transfer case in 4wd, the front wheels dont pull till you lock the hubs. This engages a set of dogs that lock the axle and the hub together to make the front wheels pull as well as the back. If youre in the mud, just leave the hubs locked, and take it in and out of 4wd with the transfer case.

Edit: Using full throttle, or heavy throttle, is not good for any front wheel drive vehicle (WHEN THE STEERING WHEEL IS TURNED AS FAR AS IT WILL GO TO EITHER SIDE).. (this includes front wheel drive cars, suv`s, and 4wd trucks) The cv joints/u joints are running at an extremely acute angle, and it can cause damage.

[97cavalier]

ok, sorry for the misunderstanding. I did not see the wheels turned part,sorry. That sucks they use ujoints and not cv's. I have replaced ujoints manny of time and they are not to fun. I do all the work on my cars and trucks. You think the 390 has the power to spin all 4 on pavment? i know it is not the best for it, but do you think it could? Thanx alot for all your guys help.

[unclebubbles]

LOL yeah, the 390 has enuff power to lite all 4 of em up, providing you have locking differentials front and rear. If it doesnt have positraction units/limited slip , it probably wont spin all 4 even in the mud, except occasionally if the weight is distributed just right. I have a positrac rear, and a welded front differential, they all 4 pull all the time when its in 4wd, and the 390 has no trouble spinning all 4 on pavement.

[97cavalier]

ok sweet, but won't welding the front break the axle? And i think he said is has locking front and rear, i wil see when i drive it.

[unclebubbles]

If you got lockers on both ends, good deal. Ive been running welded differentials for 30+ years, in race cars, trucks(2wd, and4wd) , and ive never broken an axle. It works similar to running a spool, and i have broken an axle running a spool before. Im not trying to talk u into welding yours, stick with the lockers. LOL Its a poor mans positraction unit, and i weld my own, so i trust em. Its not a good idea, if you dont know what youre doing.

[97cavalier]

i was going to do it on my camaro. But some people told me if i hit it hard on a turn i might break them.

[unclebubbles]

I love it when people that dont know what theyre talking about say stuff like that. LOL If you have any power at all, and you hit it hard in a turn, it aint gonna do anything but break the tires loose, and get sideways with u. Itll do that even without alot of power. The only drawback to running a welded unit, or a spool on the street, is that its hard to turn. Even with power steering, both tires are going the same speed all the time. When you make a turn, the inside tire is gonna go just as fast as the outside one , and the inside one will slip and squeal to keep up. Its really not that bad though, unless youre paralell parking, and i dont know of too many places you have to do that anymore. LOL

[97cavalier]

hum, screw the posi unit then, i will get my 3.73's and weld em up. Where you weld at? sorry about all the questions,lol.

[unclebubbles]

If youve never done this, i dont reccomend it , but you asked , so here goes. Youll have to get it off the ground, pull the axles, pull the carrier out of it, and clean it up and get all the oil off it. Before you pull the carrier out, the ring and pinion gear have mesh marks on them, find the marks, or make some so you can get em back like they were. Next, dissamble it, pull the pinion gears and shaft to get access to the axle gears. Wrap and protect the bearings, so no weld spatter can get in them. Get some nickel based welding rods, most any cast rod will do, i use Lincoln Nickalloy. Clamp the axle gears to the carrier so they dont draw, and stay good and flat. You can use some all thread rod and washers for this. Tack the axle gears off in 3 or 4 places, and start welding slowly, making multiple passes. Dont get in a hurry and try to fill it in one pass. Weld a little, cool a little, dont get it too hot. 3 light passes all the way around is good. Let it cool natural, dont run water on it. Unwrap it and wash everything up, make sure the bearings are clean. If you arced , or have spatter anywhere, use a dremmel tool or something similar to polish things up. And now the fun part, putting it back together. If youve never setup a rearend before, buy a book on it. Use ziplocs , and put any shims (right and left ) seperate, itll save alot of setup time. Good luck.

[97cavalier]

ok thanx alot!