98 Escort Wagon 139K A/T Shot

[biggarp]

I have an escort wagon with 139K miles and my A/T transmission seems to be shot. After the engine warms up (2+ minutes), a high pitch shreeking noise come from the transmission bell area. The transmission does not slip, but the noise is unbearable. Transmission fluid starts dripping ... but only when the engine is running.
Any ideas... could it only be the torque converter? I'm thinking of replacing the transmission myself... it is worth the effort (plus I have never dealt with a front wheel drive transmission).
Thanks
Pat

[mightymoose_22]

Just curious... is there any chance the shrieking noise is coming from the accessory belt?

The tranny is dripping... how low is the fluid? Have you refilled it? Does the shrieking continue when it is filled?

If you decide you need to replace it, the tranny comes out pretty easily if you get the front of the car up and swivel the hub out of the way when the front wheel is removed.

[Davescort97]

You're probably right about it being the torque converter. Sometimes the lines running into the radiator develop leaks and you get coolant in the transmission fluid and the torque converter acts like a giant centifruge. Will make a God awful noise. Check for tranny fluid in the radiator and coolant in the tranny which will look like GOOP hand cleaner on the dip stick. 139k is a good life for an auto tranny on an Escort. Most don't last that long.

[biggarp]

Mightymoose, I'm sure it is not the belts and yes I have checked and refilled the transmission fluid but it still shrieks after a few minutes of running.
Dave, thanks for the info on the torque convertor possibility. I can get a used 4 speed (80K mi) for about $200. I think I will pay someone else to swap it out.
Pat

[biggarp]

OK, the problem is revealed now that the transmission has been removed...
The flywheel cracked near the crankcase hub and pushed the torque converter into the bell housing and transmission case. I replaced the 139K transmission with a 80K used one I found for $200. I'm now looking for a flywheel and will replace the rear oil seal as well. I will keep you posted on the assembly.
Pat

[12Ounce]

Keep in mind that the crankshaft is not a solid piece of metal ... this means that the bolts that hold the flexplate in place need to be sealed because they actually enter the crankshaft oil artery. Use some red Loc-tite ... or buy 6 new bolts with the sealant in place (FOCZ-6379-A).

I suggest you buy a new flexplate ... don't use an old one. Also change out the "washer plate" that goes against the flexplate (F1CZ-6A366-A) ... about $10 at dealer.

I've just been through a horror story using an aftermarket (Felpro) rear seal. I ended up replacing with Ford part ... much better quality than the Felpro. I would strongly suggest you drop the oil pan before mounting the rear seal to make sure it "centers" properly.