ka PISTONS

[experiment214]

sup guys...my turbonetics turbo kit just arrived and i want to reinforce my KA internals with the arias/crower combo so as to have a little peace of mind..i want about 250-300whp, but the kit left my pockets with 2 cents and empty gum wrappers..to save the cost of honing/overbore i thought of just gettin the 89mm stock bore arias' drop 'em in there but there's an itch it might be bad idea

wat do u think?

[stephenp]

If you are going to buy the pistons ($400+) you really shouldn't try and skimp on the machine shop.... The machining shouldn't be too expensive... Have the shop check your block to tell you if you need to bore or if stock diameter would work.. If stock diameter will work it shouldn't only cost like $30... If you need to bore it should only be like 60.... You should also get the crank micropolished which should only cost about $25.... After all that is done its highly recomended to have the head checked for square and if need be milled true, yet another small amount but they do add up, for about another $60... And once you've gone that far you can wait the extra week to throw in the valve job (as long as it disassembled should only be like $75... Than all you need is a gasket set and a bearing kit (and the pistons and rods) and you have a better than new motor...
Yeah add it up theres a bit there but its all worth it....So the machine work is close to 250, and then you'll need some bearings and gaskets so theres probably another 200... making tonights lottery jackpot numbers 250 + 200 = 450 +piston cost.... So close to another 1000 to have a better than new motor......... All prices are approximate product and actual price may vary...

[slideways...]

exactly. the machining process is more important to engine longevity than the strength of the pistons. and you can also get stock cast pistons and hold 250-300whp with some careful tuning. so theres no excuse for not machining your block.

[experiment214]

thanks..

[Chuki_breath]

and for that hp goal, you might as well just get the AMS sportsman rods. There good for well over that hp level, cheap, and the lightest rods you can buy for the KA.

http://www.amsperformance.com/store/...oducts_id=1023

[slideways...]

or eagle rods. they just came out and are comparably priced to the ams ones.
you can often find them even as little as 340 bucks places, eagle's website lists em at 400 though.
http://www.eaglerod.com/products/Nis...an%20rods.html

[Hit_N_Run-player]

It was 70$ to have my block bored/cross hatched. And 40$ to have the rods hung on the wrist pins (my motor uses a solid pin where you have to heat the rod and press the wrist pin through, which i cant do without worring about heating wrong/breaking something). Dont skimp on a motor, they are expensive and must be done right. The stuff i said was done at a reputable shop too, so it cant be that much money where your at either.

[slideways...]

well the KA has snap rings holding the wrist pins in so you dont even need to worry about that. but if anyone here ever has to deal with pressed wrist pins, just put the pistons on the grill, and the pins in the freezer for a while. theres no real danger to it, just make sure you clean them up and lube the pins and rod eyes when done. the rod has to be able to swivel on the wrist pin so the pin isnt actually pressed into the rod, just into the piston.

[Hit_N_Run-player]

Nope, mine arent like that. My rod and pin are locked togethor. The pin and rod slide on the piston. (mean as in mine arent like the other design you said, of course they wont be the same, i have a different motor lol)