Transaxle removal

[mitsu3kgt]

Do you have to remove the transfer case to remove the transaxle? Also how many bolts are on the bellhousing, I removed 17, but its not moving. If anyone have a diagram or picture of the transaxle bolt patter can you post it for me? I will be very thankful.

[jason_bet]

Ok so you got the top four im guessing

Then you got the one in the front behind the turbo you have to get a long extention and put it threw the bracket for the motor mount

then you have the starter thay you need to pull and get those 2 bolts off and then there are two more bolts on a bracket right below that one


Then you have your 5 bolts holding in your transfer case
and then there are 3 more bolts two of them are on the bracket in the back and the last one you need and extention look at my finger

I think that all of them

[mitsu3kgt]

Thank you so much, I got most of the bolts except the last one that you were pointing at. I'm going to get that one tomorro.

[Linebckr49]

why are you dropping the transmission? clutch?

how many miles are on your car? (if high, might as well replace the rear main seal while you have the tranny out).

[mitsu3kgt]

Im going to replace the syncros, in my manual drivetrain class at school. My car has 90,000 miles on it and Im going to do all the seals, bearings, and syncros. Im also upgrading the clutch, I don't know which clutch to go with, I'm thinking of going with the 6 puck springless hub clutch from rps, because the clutch will help me put more torque to the ground.

[Linebckr49]

Originally Posted by mitsu3kgt

Im going to replace the syncros, in my manual drivetrain class at school. My car has 90,000 miles on it and Im going to do all the seals, bearings, and syncros. Im also upgrading the clutch, I don't know which clutch to go with, I'm thinking of going with the 6 puck springless hub clutch from rps, because the clutch will help me put more torque to the ground.

where are you getting your internal parts? i recommend Supercar Engineering. they have rebuild kits with synchros, seals, bearings and everything.

unless your car is strictly for the track, then do not go with a 6 puck clutch. stick with a full face clutch. the 6 puck is very hard for a daily driven car. there are plenty of full face clutches that can put the power to the ground. and unless you have over 400hp at the crank, a full face will do just fine.

let us know how the rebuild turns out. i've messed with the FWD trannies (differential swaps/installs, 5th gear upgrades) but haven't been much deeper. i wouldn't think it would be that hard. but make sure to pay attention to the synchro assembly: the synchro keys must line up with the notches in the ring. how long do you expect it will take you?

[AutostradaVR4]

nice little project. a write-up and some pics would be cool...

[mitsu3kgt]

I ordered my parts form supercarengineering, all of my stuff should be here by the weekend. It may take me a few days to complete everything. Im trying to make it my weekend warrior car, so I'm not really worried about the comfortable ride. I am pushing over 400 hp, my last dyno run was 450 awhp. Im going to try to take pictures while Im working on it and post them. Im going to take my time with this rebuild so it should come out fine.

[jason_bet]

What modds do you have if you don't mind me asking? that sounds like a fun project

[92VR4Red]

GOD I rember doinging that TWICE... It SUCKS ass... The first time I took the tranny out in one night, and when I sent it off to get built and when it came back, I installed it in one night (A NIGHT FROM HELL). haha but the second time went alot smoother.

[mitsu3kgt]

I have 15g turbos, 680cc injectors, denso fuel pump, msd wires, full turbo back HKS exhaust w/no cats, msd wires, k&n intake, safc neo fuel controller, Greddy type s blow off valve, and denso copper plugs.