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#1
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Cold engine = Problems
When the engine is started cold (it's worse when the outside temperature is colder) the engine will stall once in a while. Not all the time, but in particular, going in 1st from 2500-3000rpm then clutch to shift. The RPM's will drop pretty quickly when the clutch pedal is depressed, and sometimes (only on a cold engine) the engine will shut off. I'm guess I should clean the IAT sensor, but what else could it be if that's not the problem?
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#2
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Re: Cold engine = Problems
yeah that sounds almost exactly like the problem i had with my car. it stalled when i clutched in one day rolling to a stop sign and it sent me into a curb and i bent a rim. i've been trying to get to the bottom of it since. i upped my idle in the mean time so now it just kinda drops rpms suddenly but the idle is fast enough that it wont stall anymore. i'll be keeping an eye on this thread now and hopefully someone has some ideas. btw, mine does this warm too sometimes so i didn't consider IAT sensor. do u know how to clean it?
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#3
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Re: Cold engine = Problems
What model car do you have? What is your warm idle, what is your cold idle? I'd guess you have problems with the Fast Air Idle Valve. Do a search, I've posted on it before.
__________________
96 3000gt vr4 -K&N FIPK -Proboost mbc -Cusco front + rear strut bars -Greddy type-s -ATR downpipe -no cats -15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly. Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical. |
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#4
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Re: Cold engine = Problems
I have a 94 DOHC N/A. The idle is fairly consistant. At cold it usually sits a little lower I'll say around 7-800. When warm it's at 1000 and once in a while a little high at 1200. I had a check engine light on, come to find out it had to do with the EGR system, which if the valve is stuck open that can cause a rough idle on a cold engine. They reset the light and it hasn't come on in a few days. Other than that all I have seen so far is a crack in the PCV breather, but I don't think that plays a role in a rough idle. I was planning on an engine dress up kit, so then I could replace all hoses, and also probably replace all gaskets and O rings around the injectors.
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#5
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Re: Cold engine = Problems
might as well get rid of the EGR system while your under the hood. check the FAQ thread, it has info how to do it properly so you don't get a check engine light.
__________________
93 3000GT base K&N | long tube headers | 3sx crank pulley| testpipe | Addco front/rear sway bars (3SX) | rear strut bar & front 3-point strut bar (by JonVr4 on 3Si) | solid motor mounts | LSD insert | KYB GR-2 struts | intrax springs | adj. control arms | ss brake lines | 16% taller 5th gear (teamrip.com) | H4 conversion | push-button start | datalogger | HKS S-AFR | PLX WB O2 coming soon: adj. cam gears | bi-xenon HID retrofit |
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#6
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Re: Cold engine = Problems
I have somewhat of the same problem with my 91. At any temperature it will idle really high warm at around 2000 and cold sometimes 3, and will eventually come back down. If i try to take off without it warming up, it will stall out around 2500 rpm but has never shut off..
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#7
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Re: Cold engine = Problems
Ok, this is why I dislike 3 people asking questions in the same thread, it's harder to address different problems. So everybody clean your IAC, after that if the problem isn't fixed, start your own thread. Idling problems can be caused by dozens of diffferent things, and it's just easier to diagnose if we aren't constantly mixing your cars up.
Cleaning IAC You can also do a search for 'IAC' as this topic comes up every 3 days. Back to the original poster: Quote:
Run the car, is the lower part of the throttle body cool or hot to the touch? If cool it suggests the valve is staying open. Check your coolant. Make sure a) it is at the right level, b) it isn't mixed with oil (oil would be milky and have bubbles) c) make sure the flow of coolant isn't blocked. d) make sure the coolant lines running to the TB aren't broken. Also, check for plenum and vacuum leaks. I'd replace that breather hose as well. The stalling suggests a large leak or the MAS isn't plugged in. So eliminate all obvious leaks/cracks, etc. first and foremost.
__________________
96 3000gt vr4 -K&N FIPK -Proboost mbc -Cusco front + rear strut bars -Greddy type-s -ATR downpipe -no cats -15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly. Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical. |
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