'89 Suburban Starter/Service Engine Soon

[Chantz]

Okay, so the transmission fluid that he put in today was only used for about 20 minutes, and it smells very burnt. As for the problem, how it works exactly is that you can still run through the gears, but when in overdrive or drive, the shift from first to second is rough, and when it tries to shift to third, it disengages second, but never engages third, so it just revs the engine. As for getting him to replace the tranny, I can't because I don't have the 1500 or whatever it costs to get a replacement. I've got to change it myself (with the help of a few friends, of course)

[rhandwor]

From what you previously wrote I didn't understand it that way. You should be able to get a good used unit for around $300.00. Ask the yard you buy it from to give you a month warranty if you change the fluid,filter and flush the lines. Very important as metal shavings will take out a good transmission. I use an air pressured container with new transmission fluid. At the least spray about 3 cans of brake clean thru it until all metal shavings are removed.
The transfer case is heavy remove it before you remove the transmission. I would buy a 2 or 3 foot extension and a flexible connecter as it allows you to reach some very hard to get at bolts at the top of the transmission. Laying on top of the engine with an open wrench is a hard way to go. You will need a floor jack under the transmission when you take it down. Also get the torque converter with the transmission. You have to unbolt the torque converter first.
When reinstalling it be very careful and use vasoline to grease the seal
Make sure it fully inserted or if the two slots aren't in you will break the oil pump causing a new transmission.

[idmetro]

You can create a cradle of sorts to help control the transmission by running two ratcheting tie down straps around the frame rails and under the front/back of the transmission. This will allow you lower the trans onto the straps, reposition the floor jack as needed then ratchet down the strap a bit and so on until you have the transmission on the ground. Also gives you a safety net if the tranny comes off the floor jack it will just hang on the straps rather than crashing down onto you. A separate jack under the back of the engine will also help keep things in alignment/control. When you reinstall make sure you put a quart or so of new transmission fluid in the torque converter before you install it; that way you won't fire it up dry and risk damaging it.

[Chantz]

Originally Posted by rhandwor

From what you previously wrote I didn't understand it that way. You should be able to get a good used unit for around $300.00. Ask the yard you buy it from to give you a month warranty if you change the fluid,filter and flush the lines. Very important as metal shavings will take out a good transmission. I use an air pressured container with new transmission fluid. At the least spray about 3 cans of brake clean thru it until all metal shavings are removed.
The transfer case is heavy remove it before you remove the transmission. I would buy a 2 or 3 foot extension and a flexible connecter as it allows you to reach some very hard to get at bolts at the top of the transmission. Laying on top of the engine with an open wrench is a hard way to go. You will need a floor jack under the transmission when you take it down. Also get the torque converter with the transmission. You have to unbolt the torque converter first.
When reinstalling it be very careful and use vasoline to grease the seal
Make sure it fully inserted or if the two slots aren't in you will break the oil pump causing a new transmission.

Thanks for the tips. I'll make sure to pick up some brake cleaner then. As for the new transmission, I'm probably getting one from a friend, so I'm not sure what kind of warranty I get with that.... As well, there isn't a difference between an 2-Wheel-Drive and a 4-Wheel-Drive transmission, is there? I don't think there is, but my friend seems to think otherwise. Clarification on this would be appreciated

Originally Posted by idmetro

You can create a cradle of sorts to help control the transmission by running two ratcheting tie down straps around the frame rails and under the front/back of the transmission. This will allow you lower the trans onto the straps, reposition the floor jack as needed then ratchet down the strap a bit and so on until you have the transmission on the ground. Also gives you a safety net if the tranny comes off the floor jack it will just hang on the straps rather than crashing down onto you. A separate jack under the back of the engine will also help keep things in alignment/control. When you reinstall make sure you put a quart or so of new transmission fluid in the torque converter before you install it; that way you won't fire it up dry and risk damaging it.

Thats a great tip. Thanks!

[rhandwor]

Some times you can change the tail shaft on the transmission. And sometimes the bell housings are different. Once the transmission is out. Lay the replacement down beside the old unit. If everything matches you are ok. Otherwise you may have to change some parts or get another transmission.

[idmetro]

There are some differences on the tailshaft (back end on the transmission); the four wheel drive version is shorter and bolts to the transfer case while the two wheel drive version has a longer tailshaft that doesn't bolt to anything. As I understand it the internal workings are the same so as mentioned previously; you can swap tailshafts if neede to get things back on track. For simplicity I'd stay with the same model; If you had a 700R4 before then stick with a 700R4. It's not impossible to trade but things may not mate up exactly and some modifications may need to be made if you swap. Unless you have your heart set on a particualr type/model I'd stay with what was on the truck before.

[Chantz]

Originally Posted by idmetro

There are some differences on the tailshaft (back end on the transmission); the four wheel drive version is shorter and bolts to the transfer case while the two wheel drive version has a longer tailshaft that doesn't bolt to anything. As I understand it the internal workings are the same so as mentioned previously; you can swap tailshafts if neede to get things back on track. For simplicity I'd stay with the same model; If you had a 700R4 before then stick with a 700R4. It's not impossible to trade but things may not mate up exactly and some modifications may need to be made if you swap. Unless you have your heart set on a particualr type/model I'd stay with what was on the truck before.

I'm going to try, but I have somewhat limited options. The salvage yard here doesn't have the tranny I'm looking for, but a friend might. If it's not the right one, I guess it's the auto trader for me. But if the one he has could be fitted to my truck I'll probably do that

[madfinnhockey]

Hey, can you post the url for the manual web site, I wasn't able to find it,

thanks

[Chantz]

I'll take a look for it tomorrow and post the URL. But how hard is it to change the tailshaft on the transmission? 'Cause I'm pretty sure that the one I'm likely going to buy is probably off of a 2WD

[rhandwor]

Lay them down fairly close to each other. Clean any excessive dirt off of them. After the dirt is swept away put clean newspaper under them. In a garage with air tools I would say 10 to 20min. Normally they have a flange with 4 bolts to take out. Then pull it straight back. Clean the flange so you don't have any leaks. If you use silicon be very careful as to much can plug up a valve body. Make sure you clean the inside of the tail shaft you are putting on as the old transmission failed. I would also buy a front and rear seal for the transmission.
Also check the rear main on the engine while the transmission is out.