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#1
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vibration above 60mph
I put on some new wheels a few days ago - 17's with 205/45 tires. Everytime i go above 60, i get a vibration in the steering wheel. But, sometimes the steering is ok - it might be the road surface, but, don't know for sure. I know that i probably need to rebalance the wheels, btw i didn't get an alignment yet - maybe that's it? but, i was wondering if i raise my tire pressure a little (from 32/29 now to 35/32) will it help? please advise
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#2
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probably need to rebalance your wheels/tires. take it into a quality place like americas tire or somewhere. also, some really cheap wheels like Konigs are casted without any pressure put on the alloy...therefore the alloy's density is somewhat out of balance from one side of the wheel to another. common problem with cheap wheels. dont quote me on it, this is what I've heard from wheel places.:alien:
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1998 Prelude SS - TEIN HA with upper pillows, SSR Integrals 17x7 with SP8000 (215/45), GReddy Evo catback, Iceman Comp Intake, DC Sports header, Apexi VAFC, ZEX 55 shot with bottle heater, NOS blanket, Factory Body Kit, Spoon F/R tower bars, JDM Foglamps, Carbon Fiber trim, Razo pedals &knobs, Fiamm Dual air horn Future Mods: Lighten car, 2nd 10lbs nitrous bottle would be nice too. 2001 G20 P11 AT- TEIN NA, TRM Snipers 17x7 with Potenza RE910 (215/45), Arospeed Dual-outlet Muffler, K&N Drop-in Airfilter, WW Front Lip, Nakamichi MB75 1DIN 6CD Changer/Receiver, FIAMM Dual Air horns, Levoc Pedals, PIAA (H4 Superwhite H3 Ion Crystal, 168 SuperWhite) 2002 WRX MT- TEIN HA's with upper pillow mounts, 1000Miglia HT3 17x7 with sumitomo HTR+ 225/45/17, painted side skirts, Cusco front & rear strut bar, Whiteline rear swaybar, aluminum endlinks, Blitz NUR Catback, HKS seq. BOV, factory front lip, rear valance, Kartboy short shifter and bushings. Future mods: dressup wheels with Potenza S03 225/45/17 tires, TurboXS UTec, maybe an uppipe. by then, it'll be fast enough.fiamm dual air horns. |
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#3
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You can try the re-balance. The same thing happened to my old '91. I bought a $10 pair of hub-centric rings and took it to the shop to make sure that the alignment was good. MY problem was solved. Just a suggestion.
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nightmaR3Z |
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#4
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yeh, when you buy wheels, you wanna make sure that the wheels come with hubcentric rings. i feel that the best quality low priced wheels are by Kosei Racing. like I use a TRM Sniper which is a badged Kosei. it came with hubcentric ring and never had any kind of vibration even at high speeds.
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1998 Prelude SS - TEIN HA with upper pillows, SSR Integrals 17x7 with SP8000 (215/45), GReddy Evo catback, Iceman Comp Intake, DC Sports header, Apexi VAFC, ZEX 55 shot with bottle heater, NOS blanket, Factory Body Kit, Spoon F/R tower bars, JDM Foglamps, Carbon Fiber trim, Razo pedals &knobs, Fiamm Dual air horn Future Mods: Lighten car, 2nd 10lbs nitrous bottle would be nice too. 2001 G20 P11 AT- TEIN NA, TRM Snipers 17x7 with Potenza RE910 (215/45), Arospeed Dual-outlet Muffler, K&N Drop-in Airfilter, WW Front Lip, Nakamichi MB75 1DIN 6CD Changer/Receiver, FIAMM Dual Air horns, Levoc Pedals, PIAA (H4 Superwhite H3 Ion Crystal, 168 SuperWhite) 2002 WRX MT- TEIN HA's with upper pillow mounts, 1000Miglia HT3 17x7 with sumitomo HTR+ 225/45/17, painted side skirts, Cusco front & rear strut bar, Whiteline rear swaybar, aluminum endlinks, Blitz NUR Catback, HKS seq. BOV, factory front lip, rear valance, Kartboy short shifter and bushings. Future mods: dressup wheels with Potenza S03 225/45/17 tires, TurboXS UTec, maybe an uppipe. by then, it'll be fast enough.fiamm dual air horns. |
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#5
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I got some centering rings put on and the vibration seems to be gone.
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