Seafoam, synthetic oil, etc.

[jrandallc]

OK, I've got a 1995 Rodeo which I bought about a month ago. They told me I had about 2000 miles before I needed to change the oil. I'm looking at quieting the ticking sound down and here is my approach:

seafoam treatment through PCV and oil
oil change with synthetic oil
engine treatment

Question is, how long should I plan the oil change after the seafoam treatment? Should I let it run a certain number of miles, or does that really matter?

I just put some seafoam in the gas and plan on putting some in the oil and PCV soon. What other filters, etc. should I be aware of after these treatments? I know I may run into trouble with gaskets. It's got over 200,000 miles. I'm just curious about things that aren't so obvious and visible.

Thanks for any suggestions.

[amigo-2k]

200k ....

Well if you do the Sea Foam thing, add a can of it to the gas (read the amount you are suppose to put it, I'm not sure if it is the whole bottle).

Use most of the tank of gas.

Then let the engine drink a 1/3 to 1/2 a bottle of sea foam through the PCV (slowly, don't just dunk the tube in and let it drink or you may hydrolock the engine). Then dump the rest of it (up to 1/2 bottle) into the oil and take it for a 20 minute drive.

Then drain the oil asap. Since you have 200k on it I wouldn't push it any more then that.

Also synthetic at 200k you might find out your engine will turn into a sprinkler and will leak oil, but I may be wrong too.

Good luck!

Let us know how it goes.

-Ryan

[Ramblin Fever]

At 200k, personally, I would NOT be using ANYTHING in the crankcase aside from regular oil - man, 200k is a good number, but also a good enough number that if the truck's still running good, don't MESS with a damn thing.

Take a look at the oil filter that's on the truck, chances are if it's a Fram, these filters especially are known for making these 3.2L's tick. Personally, I've only had good luck with OEM Isuzu or Napa Gold filter's - all others have a tendency to make my engine sound like a sewing machine.

Your best bet for trying to help clean the hydraulic lifters (where the ticking sound is) is to run VERY short oil/filter change intervals and get the engine good and hot just before changing out the oil - hot oil eliminates more gunk.

I personally have 160k on my engine; have owned since new and never had the tick until right around 138k miles. Before this I had always used OEM oil filters and Havoline 10w-30 every 3k miles.

At 138k, I dropped in a 1/4th can of sea-foam treatment for about 10-15 minutes, and I swear for several weeks afterwards the truck ticked even louder despite the fact that I changed the oil ASAP.

At 140k or so, I did a couple of short rounds, i.e. 1-2k mile oil/filter change outs with Rotella synthetic 5w-40 diesel/gasoline engine oil; then I went to one 4k mile round of the Rotella again with a Napa oil filter.

After that, I did one round of Havoline synethic blend 5w-30 during last winter with an Isuzu filter, and by about 147-149k miles the tick stopped almost as fast as it had started.

In early Spring this year, with 152k or so, I used one round of 10w-30 Valvoline Durablend with a Napa Gold filter for 3-4k miles and I now have 161k miles and am using Valvoline Maxlife regular 10w-30 with Napa Gold filter.

My engine seems to have a preference for 10w-30 wts and/or even the 5w-40; but there's only ONE 5w-30 it seems to like and that's the Havoline synthetic blend, which is real expensive and very hard to find here.

Somewhere along that ticking time frame, I went back to the Havoline regular oil - which I believe are great oils, but my engine would start ticking again. So, I'm sticking with Valvoline Maxlife and Napa gold filters indefinitely.

I will NEVER run sea-foam or any kind of engine treatment in any engine ever again - you do NOT want to loosen up too much gunk too soon or you will have even bigger issues. I've heard time and time again that an oil rated for diesel/gasoline engines has more detergent but supposedly it has no more of a cleaning effect then regular oil, however, I believe it cleaned up my lifters.

One thing's for sure, NEVER go over 3k mile oil/filter changes on these Isuzu engines, and I would not recommend a pure synethic for your 200k mile engine. The Rotella synethic 5w-40 that I used is not a pure synethetic, and thus I would think you'd be fine using it for a few rounds. You'll find it at Wal-Mart in 1 gallon dark blue jugs.

[Ramblin Fever]

Wanted to add, use Sea-foam in the gas tank, but I personally would not put it in the engine of a 200k or 20k mile rig - doesn't matter, I would never recommend it to anyone, or any engine flush for that matter.

[Stites0518]

I used Sefoam in the engine on our 2000 Trans Am when we had it. Never did it in the oil, but rather through the intake to clean the combustion chambers. Just pulled the PCV line and let it suck the stuff in without killing it. Then I killed the engine and let it sit while I went in and read a few Jeep magazines at the store. Came back out, started the car, and left out to change the oil. Along the way, the Seafoam was burnt out of the cylinders, and proceeded to smoke out the whole highway for about a couple miles. Cleaned out the top end, and provided me some entertainment at the same time.

[jrandallc]

Thanks for the replies back, everyone. Lots of good information to consider. I put a full can of seafoam in the gas before I had even posted. Can said about an ounce per gallon, so I put the whole 16oz can. Haven't really seen a difference there, but wouldn't expect to except for mostly gas mileage.

Think I'll definitely avoid it in the oil. I'm a clean-freak and like to get things flushed out and smooth, but looks like there is high-potential for trouble in a situation like this. Probably need to leave well enough alone there. I'll run this tank of gas down and may run some through the PCV. I've got a 2000 Windstar that just turned 100,000 miles. May try it a little more there. But it's looking like the best application for products like this is to use them on new vehicles and keep them in good shape as you go along.

Interesting comments on synthetic oil. I've always been under the impression that was the way to go for high-mileage engines. Looks like I was dead wrong. Just had the oil changed in my 2000 Windstar about 500 miles ago and went pure synthetic in it. It just turned 100,000 miles. What's the danger of it in high-mileage engines? Guess it has a stronger cleaning capability than regular oil. I'll probably stick with a synthetic blend or search the Windstar forum for some advice there. I just wouldn't have thought a pure synthetic could be a bad choice. Learning a lot here today.

Thanks again to everyone for their advice. Appreciate the details on the oil, Ramblin Fever. I really watch my oil and filter from now on. I'll post back with any progress.

[Ramblin Fever]

There is one owner who has over 180k on his Rodeo and he's using German Castrol 0w-30 synthetic oil in his truck, started using it at over 160k, I believe. He hasn't had any leaking issues as far as I know.

I've just never been wanting to personally try a pure synthetic in my Rodeo, as I've had enough problems with leaking seals/gaskets in my Toyota p/up with just regular oil, I don't want to add to the headache.

Nore mess with my good luck, so far, on the Rodeo, as I've never had to replace a gasket/seal for leaking.