Serpentine Belt Tensioner Removal

[jessb]

Hello all ... I am new to this forum and this is my first post. I am hoping someone can answer these questions for me. I have searched the forum and have have found some info (seized Tensioner problem) but need more info. My vehicle is a 1994 Taurus 3.0 with 155,342 miles. Only problems other than routine maintenance I have had since new are 1. Oil pan gasket went at 110,000 and 2. The thin film ignition module at 115,000.
Serpentine belt is Original on car purchased car new in 1994.
Belt was recemt;u occasionally slipping causing power steering loss so I decided it was time to replace. Diagram shows using wrench to loosen tension.
I tried this and the head of the bolt broke off. Apparently the tensioner is seized. Now I need to remove the tensioner. Tried to do this but the star wrench stripped out the inside of the bold (Does this bolt loosen counterclockwise?) Decided to try to take the Alternator , Power Steering, tensioner braket off so I could get the tensioner removed. Removed the alternator OK. Can't get the Power Steering Pully to come loose. How is this pully mounted? Does it screw on to a shaft clockwise? Or is this a bolt and does the bolt tighten clockwise or counterclockwise. For tonight I sprayed WD40 on the bolts and will get back to later. Help Anyone??

[vicv]

I have a 97 3.0. I replaced my belt but did not have to remove the tensioner. I put the ratchet in the square hole on the tensioner, not a socket on the bolt, to release the tension on the belt. I think that's why the bolt broke.

[jessb]

Originally Posted by vicv

I have a 97 3.0. I replaced my belt but did not have to remove the tensioner. I put the ratchet in the square hole on the tensioner, not a socket on the bolt, to release the tension on the belt. I think that's why the bolt broke.

Thanks for the inof vicv..
My 98 Chevy S10 has a square hole like that and it was easy to relieve the tension to replace the belt. Glad to hear the later model Tauri have that too. My 94 3.0 taurus doesn't have this square hole in the tensioner. It has a star socket recessed bolt holding the tensioner on and the diagram on the plastic fan shield pictures a cresent wrench placed on the idler sprocket bolt to relieve the tension. I noticed in the forum that other people have had problems with this method and have used a prybar to relieve the tension. Wish I had read this before I tried the method recommended by Ford. The price for a replacement Tensioner is $59.00 at Advace Auto Parts (assuming I get the old one off). Anyone know of a better deal?

[Larry in CA]

My '94 Sable has the square hole also. It is on the rear side of the tensioner and that might be why some people do not see it.
I have also had the tensioner bolt break on my Sable and on the 94 there are three bolts that have to be remove in order to remove the tensioner assembly.
If I remember correctly, I had to remove a couple of 13mm nuts to remove a bracket and then there were 15mm bolts that held the assembly to the block.
Good luck and watch the knuckles.

[jessb]

Originally Posted by Larry in CA

My '94 Sable has the square hole also. It is on the rear side of the tensioner and that might be why some people do not see it.
I have also had the tensioner bolt break on my Sable and on the 94 there are three bolts that have to be remove in order to remove the tensioner assembly.
If I remember correctly, I had to remove a couple of 13mm nuts to remove a bracket and then there were 15mm bolts that held the assembly to the block.
Good luck and watch the knuckles.

Thanks Larry...I looked for the square hole but nothing there. The back side of the Tensioner is inaccessable. I am going to buy a new tensioner /puller asselbly tomorrow and will have to drill out the star head bolt to get the old one off. I dont see any other way at this point.
Jess

[jessb]

Finally....replaced the tensioner and serpentine belt.
Here is what I did to get the old tensioner off.
The old tensioner was attached by a torx head bolt.
I used a T50 torx wrench to try to remove but it stripped out the inside of the bolt (wasnt'very deep)...(why did Ford do this to us??). Tried to loosen the bolt with a chisel...did no budge. Used the chisel to bust the aluminum housing of the tensioner. removed the spring. then used the chisel to bus the aluminum shaft under the spring. finally go to the steel underneath. Use a torch (purchased mini oxy/acetyline $58.00) to melt the the steel and bolt head..thus welding it together. Finally took a pipe wrench to the shaft and was able to loosen the bolt. Use a vice grip to screw the bolt the rest of the way out.
Replaced with a new tensioner from advance auto ($58.00). Also belt from Advance Auto ($20.00). Total cost to replace $138.00.
The new tensioner has standard bolt head...torx be gone!!!
Jess

[pstoltze]

Originally Posted by jessb

Use a torch...to melt the the steel and bolt head..thus welding it together. Finally took a pipe wrench to the shaft and was able to loosen the bolt. Use a vice grip to screw the bolt the rest of the way out.

jessb - Thanks for following up with the end of the story. I just had to replace a siezed tensioner as well, and mine was the type you described. It was held on by a Torx T50 bolt, and even putting a wedge between the Torx bit and the chassis rail, it would not stay in the bolt well enough to loosen it. I was able to avoid having to chisel off the aluminum housing though. I was able to weld an old socket to the head of the bolt and then use a breaker bar and a hammer to finally get the bolt loose.

Overall, the Taurus has been a great car for me, but I don't know what Ford was thinking on this one...

Paul