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#1
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subs and amp help
http://www.circuitcity.com/rpsm/oid/...Detail.do#tabs
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TESTE...QQcmdZViewItem these are the subs and amp im getting and i need help on getting a wiring diagram on how to wire my subs and amp, i would google it but when i do i get like 10 different ways to do it and each way is ment for a specific application, and i dont know which application i am doing? help! and is this amp ok for for the subs im getting? or do i need to get a 2 channel instead of a mono?
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2002 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V w/6 Speed Manual
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#2
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Re: subs and amp help
Quote:
__________________
1999 Chevrolet Monte Carlo LS [semi-daily driver until LIM repair or trade-in for '13 Fusion, 110k miles] Gone but not forgotten: 1995 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP[sold, 128k miles] 1996 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme SL Coupe [a minivan tore my door off, totaled, 84k miles] 1998 BMW M3 Hardtop Convertible [a pathfinder armada stopped in front of me, totaled, 70k miles] 1989 Chevrolet Cavalier Coupe [died, 160k miles, engine problems] 1990 Hyundai Excel GL [died, 220k miles, died] |
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#3
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Re: subs and amp help
i thought bazooka was a good name brand?
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2002 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V w/6 Speed Manual
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#4
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Re: subs and amp help
i've never heard of it. and honestly if you're getting subs that rate 675 watts peak (1350) then you could use that amp on just one speaker and not even exceeded it's limits... If i were you, and I were getting those MTX subs, I would go for an amp with a higher output, like 1000watts or even 1500. I'm pushing 800 watts through two subs designed for 500 max. Sounds great by the way.
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#5
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Re: subs and amp help
well....if i understand what ive been told by circuit city, you go by watts RMS which is 450 on those and not peak power cuz you will never go to the peak power and RMS is the amount of power the subs can output constantly so if they are constantly producing about 450 than 500 would be about what i want maybe even a little more but getting an amp that produces 1000 is twice as much as needed and also much more money
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2002 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V w/6 Speed Manual
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#6
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Re: subs and amp help
gimme a minute to draw and I'll explain it to you. It doens't work like that.
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#7
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Re: subs and amp help
that's how you hook your amp up.... this is what you have, and how you'd hook it up. this is how a stereo (2 channel amp works) and that's if you bridge it...You see, theres two types of wattage when describing sound. Theres the peak and the rms. The peak an amp produces is called it's rating, If an amp is rated at 1000w then it usually (depending on brand, theres your kicker) pushes about half that RMS. Speakers are the same way, they handle like that. Your 1350 watt box (2x 750w speakers) handles that much at peak. If you push MAX 1000 watts (2 channels = 500w per channel) to 2 750W speakers then you're really only receiving 250 watts PEAK per speaker..if you hook it up normal. That's another thing, amps are always rated for their bridged capacity......did anybody understand that..cuz it made sense in my head, lol. |
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#8
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Re: subs and amp help
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your way is 2 ohm my friend |
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#9
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Re: subs and amp help
Bazooka=Junk.
Derk- In the diagram do you have the ground running from the front strut to the amp?? *EDIT* If you really want some good help then post your questions about audio here http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...play.php?f=675 |
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#10
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Re: subs and amp help
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that has to be the rear strut...
__________________
1999 Chevrolet Monte Carlo LS [semi-daily driver until LIM repair or trade-in for '13 Fusion, 110k miles] Gone but not forgotten: 1995 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP[sold, 128k miles] 1996 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme SL Coupe [a minivan tore my door off, totaled, 84k miles] 1998 BMW M3 Hardtop Convertible [a pathfinder armada stopped in front of me, totaled, 70k miles] 1989 Chevrolet Cavalier Coupe [died, 160k miles, engine problems] 1990 Hyundai Excel GL [died, 220k miles, died] |
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#11
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Re: subs and amp help
thank you, rear. and hey I didn't see you draw a diagram, lol
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#12
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Re: subs and amp help
all you have to do is ground it somewere just make sure it is bare metal
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#13
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Re: subs and amp help
yeah but the strut, is like the best place cuz all you gotta do it like unscrew the thing and you already have your metal. You don't have to sand anything down and drill any holes..
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#14
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Re: subs and amp help
I just ran my ground from my seat bracket.
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