Alignment Specs

[2old]

Originally Posted by sLADe781

Okay umm... in theory, what the actual settings should be is 0, right? For example, for the Front Toe setting, the specified range is -0.12 to 0.12 so if the actual was 0.00 then that would be ideal? However, since there is the range that is given, shops would just adjust the settings enough so that it falls within the specified range and just consider it "aligned" (for example 0.02 in my case)?

Also, I don't get why there are Front Left/Right settings as well as the "Front" setting. Is the front setting kind of like a total between the left and right and they're supposed to be balanced or something (if that made any sense)?

Yep, that is pretty much it... You also have to remember that even out of the factory cars are not perfectly aligned so the varience is not an "opt out" for the mechanics, but also what was allowed to roll off the factory floor and to be sold to you new.

The left/right front is the independent measurements of the front left and right wheels compared to the chassis and the "front" is the measurement of the front wheels relative to each other (or a consolidated view on the numbers).

Now this is strickly my opinion, so don't take this as gospel... But aligning a car to 0.05 of a degree of the theoretical setting optimal setting is a little like putting a laser cut edge on an ax and then using it to chop a tree down... You MIGHT notice it if you were racing on a track, but public roads are usually pretty worn with crowns, ruts, potholes, bumps, etc... Some big enough to knock your alignment off anyways, and that it makes a much bigger difference to drivability then a fraction of a degree off your alignment.

The only thing it might save you on is tires... But personally I need a little negative camber anyways because I take corners too hard and wear out outer edge of my tire faster then the inner edge, so it's up to personal preference/experimentation.