98 windstar 3.8 oil pressure - Page 2

gary evans · #16 03-02-2005, 11:56 PM

thanks----I am still fooling with this thing and will keep you informed on the outcome, if any---gary

gary evans · #17 03-06-2005, 11:22 AM

I got an engine code for the front o2 sensor and i changed that plus the wires and plugs, which were original. i have driven about 300 miles since and the oil light has stayed off, so i think it is ok. i cant see what difference these changes could have since the rpms have stayed the same, but so far, so good. many thanks---gary

egstasea · #18 03-06-2005, 01:03 PM

Not the same engine, but I ahad a similar problem on a chevy 2.8. It was caused by partially clogged oil return passages in the heads. One tel tale symptom was the dip stick read low just after running, but full after sitting a while. Just a thought.

gary evans · #19 03-06-2005, 10:30 PM

good thought----i drove 30 miles tonight and it did it again----maybe need to pull the covers and take a look----have not noticed any difference in oil level but maybe have waited too long before checking thanks---gary

zooite1059 · #20 04-25-2005, 10:35 PM

HI, I to am having the exact same problem with my 98 3.8l engine.
If you find out the problem I would much appreciate a post so that I can fix mine oil pressure problem at low rpm after the motor is warmed up.
Thanks

patfogle · #21 04-25-2005, 10:50 PM

Have you checked the pressure with a gauge? That is where I would have started. Get it warmed up and replace the light sender with a gauge. Auto zone sells them, as do many parts stores. Your mechanic should have one as well. It may be a bad alternator or battery, at idle and in gear the alternator isn't really turning fast enough to charge... So if the battery is going bad, or the alternator is going bad there can be a voltage drop that can cause odd things.

zooite1059 · #22 04-26-2005, 06:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patfogle

Have you checked the pressure with a gauge? That is where I would have started. Get it warmed up and replace the light sender with a gauge. Auto zone sells them, as do many parts stores. Your mechanic should have one as well. It may be a bad alternator or battery, at idle and in gear the alternator isn't really turning fast enough to charge... So if the battery is going bad, or the alternator is going bad there can be a voltage drop that can cause odd things.

I have not done that yet. When I found this thread with the exact same problems, I was hoping to see what cured his problem first before I started the troubleshooting. Thanks for the other info though.

patfogle · #23 04-26-2005, 11:22 AM

One other thing about the gauge.. It's realy just an idiot light.. The sending unit is just a switch that come on at 7psi. We ran into the same things with a 93 Aerostar 3.0. After almost 200k miles the motor was just worn out.

gary evans · #24 04-26-2005, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Winny_the_Pooh

Well, I presently have my timing cover off and oil pump off. I'll take a look and get back to you. May be this weekend though.

regarding the windstar with the oil light coming on at stop signs-----i finally had the pan taken off, and the oil pick-up was about 95% clogged----apparent poor maintanence by the former owner because it had only 88k actual miles----i had the rod and main bearings replace, but the crankshaft was pretty badly scored and a couple of mechanics said the bearings would probably soon wear out----i drove it about 700 miles and the light never came on, it performed great and never made any noise, but they scared me enough that i traded it off last weekend, so now i have a whole new set of problems gary

SVT1998 · #25 04-14-2006, 12:31 PM

I got the exact same issue, flickering oil light at idle, only when warm. I'm afraid its the same issue as gary's, as i just bought it last year and had very poor to no maintenance done prior to that, especially oil. I don't want to get into taking the pan off just yet as the whole exhaust has to be dropped I believe. I pickedup an oil pressure gauge to see if I can confirm the low pressure. I noticed a plug fitting accessible just off where the oil filter screws on. Is this a good place to tap into the system for a gauge? getting to the oil pressure sensor looks like a pain.

bos2677 · #26 04-17-2006, 01:22 PM

I too have this problem. Just started on 4/14 and exhibits same symptoms, only after I drive for 20 minutes does the light flicker at a stop. I am interested in opinions on low battery. My battery is on the last leg and I am now wondering if it can contribute. Mine is 1995 with 170K miles.

SVT1998 · #27 07-23-2006, 11:29 PM

Well finally managed to get the plug out on the oil filter housing and got a gauge hooked up to it. Bad news...............pressure really drops as the oil gets hot. Had just barely changed the oil and filter, when i started it up it jumped right up to 60psi. I was smiling! Then as it warmed up it started to drop. At idle when warm it was down below 10psi. I stepped the rpm up to about 2000rpm (around normal hiway speed) and only got up to around 30psi. Oil wasn't really hot either, I only took it around the block, so it was still only warm. So the idiot light was right. I was hoping for a faulty sensor. Looks like bearings and a oil pump for me too.

wiswind · #28 07-24-2006, 12:06 AM

Best thing that I can think of is to drop the oil pan.....and check the pick up unit. YES you do have to drop the "Y" pipe with the catalytic converters.....
You will want to soak the bolts with a penatrating oil such as PBlaster......2 nuts at each exhaust manifold, and 1 bolt next to the transmission......and then the 2 bolts for the connection to the flex pipe.
Disconnect the oxygen sensors....and be VERY careful with them.....particularly if you have one mounted into the catalytic converter....rather than the pipe....as it will really easily break out of the converter......requiring replacement of the "Y" pipe (list price from FORD $1600...walker "direct fit" just over $300)
When you drop the "Y" pipe......support the flex section..behind the Y pipe and in front of the big square muffler.... with a wire.....as in hold it up so that it does not dangle and become damaged.

There is an engine cleaner called "AutoRX" that is only available over the internet. This is a product that will gently clean deposits from the parts of the engine that the oil gets to. The key word is GENTLY. It breaks down crud in small parts.....not big chunks that can clog things like oil pick up screens......which some other cleaners can do.
You put a bottle of this cleaner in.....drive about 1500 miles......drain the oil, change the filter....and put in a non-synthetic oil for the "clean" phase....which is when most of the crud is removed from the engine.

LeSabre97mint · #29 07-24-2006, 01:07 PM

Hello

Is any one having rod noise on start up? I did on my 95 at 177,000 miles. I changed the rod bearings and at 200,000 it's doing fine. The crank looked okay. I didn't measure it, just put in STD size bearings. The best $35.00 + (pan gasket) spent.

Regards

Dan

searcherrr · #30 12-18-2007, 06:00 AM

If some of the people in this thread ever resolved their issues please speak up now and say what fixed it. I am having the SAME exact issue with a BRAND NEW REMAN from truetestengines.com (which seemingly is ATK or ATKNA.com). Oil filter, oil, pickup, etc.. all are new. Even oil pressure sending unit is new. I'm not facing a crap load of bureaucratic bs to get the manufacturer to pay for repairs to the shop that installed my new engine.

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