1989 Camaro Iroc

[Albee44]

Hi everyone, this is my first time posting and I know absolutely nothing about cars, so I will need simple language (layman's terms) if you can answer my questions.

We recently purchased a 89 Camaro Iroc, all parts on it were original, car is in great shape, stored winters and undercoated yearly.

It ran pretty well, but we did a tune up on it anyway, for the first problem

the temperature gauge goes straight to the top and stays there, we changed everything related to the rad (but not the rad) all the hoses, the gauges etc. but it still does it, we even changed the actual gauge in cluster, same thing. When an external temp is taken, all is good, fans both kick on at 220 or a bit higher........Any idea why the gauge remains at hot?

2nd question: We had this "bogging" when first driving the car, converter is fine (new), checked all fuel related things, all seem fine, after spending alot of time in the service garage (and money), technician figured out that it might be the throttle body gasket, that was changed and away we went, all was good for approx. one week, no "bogging" at all, yesterday back to "bogging" no worse than before, just the same. Any ideas? Technician today suggested an electrical problem?? Any idea what electrical problem it could be, we of course would prefer to fix it ourselves(actually hubby and his buddies) but barring that I like to 'suggest" to the technicians what it could be, before it costs me an arm and a leg. The car is beautiful and is being wasted in the garage or driveway. I am

Thanks for any help, I will certainly appreciate it. Any suggestions are greatly needed and I will try any and all, and post the results.

[CamarosRsweet94]

Fors the first question I might try the temperature sensor maybe that will do it.

For the second I have no idea...

[Dyno247365]

I'll answer this one at a time, because I can't be bothered.

Did you replace the thermostat? The problem with your temp gauge is the same problem I have. Someone suggested setting up an aftermarket temp gauge for good measure. From what I know, it's could be bad wires to your cluster.

You said you got a new cluster though? hmm. I'm waiting for my car to get fixed. I'll tell you when I get it back what they did

[Albee44]

thermostat was replaced (new)

temperature gauge replaced (new)

I tell ya it's a baffler!

yup new cluster so that would tell me I think that it had to be something leading up to the temperature gauge making it zoom to the red.

any ideas on the "bogging"?

[wrightz28]

Temp gauge, goes straight up right at start up, correct? The sending unit for the gauge is on the drivers side of the motor between cylinders 1 and 3 and has a single green wire coming off it that is VERY close to the exhaust manifold. Hence very close after a while it get's heated up melst and grounds out, when grounded reads full hot, when open reads nada zip. I'll place bets on the table that that is where the problem lies there.

As for the bogging....

although you may be a novice at auto repair, don't fret, you're car is fuel injected and computer monitered/controlled. That computer (ECM/PCM) is your best friend when it comes down to it in the long run, not your enemy. That said tho, you need to a add a few tools to your basic ratchet/wrench set, a fuel pressure gauge ($30-50), timing light, vacuum gauge and the most advanced tool required to work with your ECM, a paperclip.

Anyway, what exactly consisted of the tune up? Was it bogging before?

oh and welcome to the boards

[Albee44]

The sending unit was changed and all the wires etc. the temp gauge was changed, first start up all was good, shut car off, turned it back on and it flew straight up to red line, wires are not melted.

bogging

tune up was spark plugs, wires, filters, gauges, ignition thing(sorry), we did an oil change,catalytic converter, oxygen sensor, all fluid change, oh fuel filter was new so we didn't change that. Basically everything else, because all was original, well except the fluids. It was bogging before and after, thats when the tech, decided it was the throttle body gasket, that was changed and no bogging for 1.5 week, then bogging again??

Hubby is wondering if the temp thing is related to the bogging? But external taken temp is fine and it is not over heating, fans kick on at 220 or slighty above.

AND, thank you for the welcome

[wrightz28]

Si the needle 'flew up' and hasn't come down since?

[Albee44]

correct! and we even changed the whole cluster thing, first tried just changing the gauge and then thought maybe we should change the whole thing, so we did and it is still up there.

[Morley]

The wire to the gauge from the temp sender is probably broken.
Since the throttlebody gasket was changed and it worked ok for a while, I would suggest a through cleaning of the throttlebody. Remove the idle air control motor on the RH side of the throttlebody and clean out all of the passages in there and on the back of the throttlebody. I use Valvoline Synpower, throttlebody, carb & choke cleaner, it removes carbon build up quickly and easily.

[wrightz28]

Originally Posted by Albee44

correct! and we even changed the whole cluster thing, first tried just changing the gauge and then thought maybe we should change the whole thing, so we did and it is still up there.

Ah hah, clarity, Ok, then the needle istelf is physically stuck in the cluster (very common problem), what I've done a few with this problem is take the cluster back apart, and on the mounting screw right behind the gauge is twist a small paper clip on and wrap it over to just about where the gauge facing sits in th e cluster panel window. Paint it black so you don't see it, sharpie works fine, problem solved, you just made yourself a needle stop. Key thing tho is to make sure it is out of the way enough that it doesn't stop the needle prematurely and alter the reading, but yet resolves the sticking problem.

i've found that simply bending the needle downward does not cure the problem.

As for the bogging, as Morley said, definately clean the throttle body out, but be careful what you use. A harsh, carb & choke cleaner i've heard can cause chemical damage to the TB blade finish and worsen the problem down the road. Have I actually seen this, no, but in theory it does make some sense.

Also make sure the either A, the mount bolts weren't too loose and backed themselves off or B they were overtightened and recreated the leak either way.

[Albee44]

I'm back still

but temp gauge was fixed by a paperclip, cheapest repair ever thanks

now the bogging is continuing, I got a code reader thingy, but have no idea how it works, hubby says he plugs it in and the engine light flashes 3x, I know I read on here what all the flashes etc mean but can't find the thread, can anyone help me out? Just even point me in the general direction of the thread that lists the flash sequences, oh and explain to me (remember I have no idea) what exactly I am looking for.

We think the bogging might have something to do with the MAF thingy, hubby is pulling something out of it and I will try to post the picture on here, it appears two bolts are missing from it, but heck maybe they aren't supposed to be there..........I don't know.

any help will be appreciated

[Albee44]

ok UPDATE!!!! Hubby disconnected the thingy that connects to the MAF, engine light came on (which we expected) but car is running perfectly, even sounds different, no bogging upon compression of gas pedal..........now for the question, Can we run the car without that being hooked up? will it do any major damage? I know the engine light will stay on of course. I just want to know because up here in Canada that part is $800.00 and I need time to save for it.

thanks

[wrightz28]

Try replacing the relays first