Clear coat clear parts?

[cyberkid]

I was wondering since I have never done this before. Has anyone ever had good results using this method, whether light covers or window shields? Or has anyone used this method at all? Another Q how do you treat your clear parts? Meaning like do you leave assembling them till the last second and not do anything to them? Or do you clear/compound/wax them?

Heh, feeling like Curious George lol.
Thanks for any replies.
Steve

[gpz900ra7]

I haven't tried it myself but, a lot of people say that they dunk their clear parts in Future floor polish for a harder coating.

[Scale-Master]

I avoid doing anything to them except maybe a light buffing with a mild wax. But sometimes more options need to be looked at if there are scratches or other imperfections. Usually you can't beat the finish of a good clear part from the mold... - Mark

[nugundam93]

i've tried using the future method using a local equivalent...didn't like it. sure, it makes the plastic look glossier, but if you wrap the kit in like a soft plastic bag and if the bag makes contact with the plastic with future, it'll make some marks on it

methinks the polishing sticks (forgot the link, but it was discussed and reviewed here) would do a way better job

[MPWR]

Most of the legends and lies about the miraculous virtues of Future come from model airpland builders. Yes, many of them dip canopies in future, with good results- but there's a big difference in looking through a small canopy into a 1/72 cockpit and looking through a large windshield into a car interior. Any imperfections in a clearcoated windshield will easily be seen- and there will always be imperfections. In some rare cases it just can't be avoided, so you're forced to do the best you can. Otherwise if you don't have to, don't coat your windows with anything, except maybe some wax.

[klutz_100]

Originally Posted by MPWR

Most of the legends and lies about the miraculous virtues of Future...

The Future is not what it used to be...

Sorry, I just couldn't resist that even though I promised myself to be good.
Actualy, I agree 100%. One of the first things I did when I started this hobby was to find out what the heck this Future is that everone keeps mentioning and what's it called in Poland. Nearly 2 years later and haven't used it yet.

Hey! Maybe it's good for polishing floors? Hmmm....I'll have to give that a try!

Leave clear parts in the bag until you REALLY need to take them out for some test fitting. In fact, I generally remove them from the box immediately after buying a kit and wrap them up in some fine cellulose tissue for safer storage jsut in case.

Scratches can be removed. Windows can even be replaced with more "in scale" substitutes if you feel the desire/need. There's a tutorial in the how to section.

[cfcrules]

Clear parts have always given me a problem on my first model a Ferrari Mythos, I sprayed it over the light covers, it causes it to all fog up, sort of like if you apply cclear laquer heavily it goes white but eventually clears ince dry, it never goes clear again.

[bhop73]

My Revell Eclipse's windows had some minor scratches, so I did the Future dipping technique with them. It worked great. No issues whatsoever. You'll avoid drips and imperfections if you bleed the excess off the edges with a paper towel and let it dry flat.

[WasteGas]

I'm a future dunker myself. I set it slanted on a toothpic with one of the corners on a tissue to wick it off.

[cyberkid]

Originally Posted by cfcrules

Clear parts have always given me a problem on my first model a Ferrari Mythos, I sprayed it over the light covers, it causes it to all fog up, sort of like if you apply cclear laquer heavily it goes white but eventually clears ince dry, it never goes clear again.

That was what I was afraid of. Thank you everyone for your replies.

[kenyap83]

I have heard many things about future dip. Mostly from aircraft moddellers. I thought of doing it myself as some of my Revell kits are fogging up really badly. Anyway, I am done with Revell kits as they use very cheap low quality plastic resin. Now with my Japanese kits. I just use Tamiya Finish compound. It turn out great and amazingly made it clearer as well. After buffing off the compound I polish it with Novus 1 protectent spray. It help by not letting dust set on it and thus seldom leave finger print marks when being handled.

Kenneth

[cyberkid]

Originally Posted by kenyap83

I just use Tamiya Finish compound. It turn out great and amazingly made it clearer as well. After buffing off the compound I polish it with Novus 1 protectent spray. It help by not letting dust set on it and thus seldom leave finger print marks when being handled.

So, you use the compound directly on the clear plastic without painting it? Must try that. Can I also ask what Novus 1 is?

[kenyap83]

Well after I had sprayeed the black area of the clear parts then I polish compound with Tamiya Finish compound. As for Novus 1 it is a liquid in a spray bottle. you can get them from Micromark.com I also use it to apply it to my car bodies after all polish and compound. I will apply it then light buff it. Like I said it help prevent dust from setting on the body and leaving thump prints on the body.

[chato de shamrock]

I had problems with my first two models i ever made. My mistake was using regular cement glue from the tub and the large drops that came out of it. Now i use Testors glue for clear parts and to make small windows. It works great. This is my first time hearing about this "future" product. I dont use anything except, maybe, for some window cleaner. In the US we have a house product called Windex that does a very nice job. I also keep the clear parts in a separate bag and dont take them out until im ready to fit, paint, and glue them on. The only thing i use on the rear lights to make them look shiny is paint them in tamiya's clear colors and cut out a piece of chrome paper to attach it behind the lights. The paper is actually for RC airplanes and i bought it when i started this hobby thinking it would work as good as Bare Metal Foil. It's so much more shinnier than Bare Metal chrome but does not work well cutting and bending small pieces. Since the paper is chromed from both sides, I use the adhesive side of the paper to stick onto the lights and the other end gets a drop or two of glue and applied to the body. Thats basically all I do with clear parts.