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#16
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Re: Replacing my Alternator (99) a few questions
To work the belt, you might want to get yourself a long 15mm wrench.
You will put the box end over the bolt in the center of the tensioner pulley, and pull forward. Using a long wrench will give you leverage, making the force that you have to apply much less. If you end up with the belt off several of the pulleys (or when you change the belt), there should be a sticker on the underside of the hood showing you the correct routing of the belt. As far as the alternator goes, I had a Motorcraft replacement melt down on the freeway within 1 month of installation. I was very lucky, as the fuel line is only a couple of inches away on the '96 3.8L windstar. That was with the correct OEM replacement part. You are much more likely to have the wires going to the correct places, and the correct gauge wire with the OEM specified replacement (does not have to be Motorcraft brand, but OEM specification). There can be a lot of current through various wires, and too small of a gauge wire, not a tight connection, etc can lead to an underhood fire. Also, take note that the alternator and battery often fail together, a weak battery can draw lots of current trying to charge, causing a greater load on the alternator. If you have the original battery in that '99, you might look into a replacement.
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Moderator for Ford Windstar room only Links to my pictures, intended as an aid, not a replacement for, a good repair manual. 1996 3.8L Windstar http://www.flickr.com/photos/4157486...092975/detail/ 2003 Toyota Sienna pictures (not much there yet) http://www.flickr.com/photos/4157486...781661/detail/ |
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#17
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Re: Replacing my Alternator (99) a few questions
I agree with taking your alternator to a rebuilder in your area. I did the same thing on my 98 Windstar with the 3.0 Liter engine. The guy had it apart and back together in less than an hour and only charged in the 30's to clean and rebuild it. It only needed new bearings. The rest of it was in good shape but he cleaned it up anyway. This alternator had about 170,000 miles on it. Yours sounds like maybe it needs brushes or diodes or maybe voltage regulator. I would definitely check your yellow pages and see if someone can do it for you at a reasonable price.
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Riordan3 1998 Windstar 199K( ex co car now Lowes hauling veh ) 2004 Buick Regal 79K (wife's car ) 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan 108K(company car ) 2007 Mustang GT convertible torch red (my toy)18K |
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#18
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Re: Replacing my Alternator (99) a few questions
I used a pry bar on the tensioner. It really is not that difficult. I tried to leave the belt on the other accesories but it quickly fell off. The diagram in the engine bay was easy to follow. and I looped the belt around everything but the tensioner. and then I pulled on the pry bar and slipped the belt over the last pully.
You may be able to purchase a rebuild kit for your alternator. I remember seeing ones that included the brushes etc. Bearings often have the manufacturers numbers on them but you can take the old bearing to a bearing manufacturer's retail counter and they should be able to provide the replacement. (Fortunately I live in Toronto and we have 2 huge bearing companies nearby |
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#19
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Re: Replacing my Alternator (99) a few questions
Regarding the tensioner, I used a long rachet ( half inch drive ) with a socket on it and was able to get it down far enought to get the belt on. When you move it, its hard for a little while in the travel then it gets easier once you get it to a certain point. At least thats how mine was. I don't know why Ford had to put such a stiff spring on that tensioner, my gm products were never that hard.
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Riordan3 1998 Windstar 199K( ex co car now Lowes hauling veh ) 2004 Buick Regal 79K (wife's car ) 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan 108K(company car ) 2007 Mustang GT convertible torch red (my toy)18K |
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