98 accord 5 speed

[bobolo]

hey wasup i went to autozone cause i had the check engine light on so i went to check it for free and the code was (p1259) now can someone help and tell me wat it means and if is serious they told me something bout a signal error thats bout it i want so more details thanx

[Igovert500]

A search resulted in this:


P1259 - VTEC system malfunction

If you cut and paste the following links into your browser you can zoon in and read how to troubleshoot this.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...f.jpg.orig.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...3.jpg.orig.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...f.jpg.orig.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...c.jpg.orig.jpg

[bobolo]

igobert i cant view none of those links, i just called honda they told me the same thing bla bla bla something with the v-tech but he's telling me to leave the car with them so they can get into the problem a little deeper cause we dont really know what it is, im like i gave u the code u should know what it is stupid u just want me to leave the car here so u can give me a big ass bill f..k u .

so u think that if i replace the v-tech selenoid i would be ok?
or give me some links da i can view

[Igovert500]

Ah, sorry about that. Here go to this link:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...em+malfunction

Then read it, that is where I got those links. If you copy paste them into your browser from that link, they should work.

[i4edge]

Hey I've been helping a freind with his car. His car stalls/surges at 4000 rpm no matter the gear (even neutral). It is throwing the P1259 code. Replaced the VTEC Oil Pressue Switch and Solenoid with a new one and new 02 sensor. Checked the oil level - fine. Car will pass 4000 the first time after starting. There after it won't pass it. Have cleared the cel but returns as soon as we pass 4000 rpm. CHecked the harness but don't see anything physically wrong. Any recommendations?

[Glen_T]

Per the shop manual troubleshooting tree, you first check to see if the code is still active and not intermittent. You then check the VTEC oil pressure switch for continuity between the 2 terminals. You should have continuity. You then measure the voltage between the #2 terminal of the harness at the VTEC pressure switch and ground with the ignition on. You should have 12V. If not, then you either have a bad ECM or a bad wire between the ECM and the VTEC oil pressure switch. If you do have 12V, then check for voltage across the two terminals of the wiring harness with the ignition on. You should have 12V. If not, you have a bad wire on the ground side in that harness.

If you have 12V, then turn the ignition off, and disconnect the VTEC solenoid valve (one pin connector). You should have 14-30 ohms resistance between ground and the connector on the valve. If the continuity is not 14-30ohms, then replace the solenoid. If continuity is correct, then they have you and check pressures with special tools/fitting with the engine running to see if the solenoid valve is mechanically functioning correctly, then it goes off and runs through checking the wires for continuity, etc.

Basically, the only parts that can fail are the solenoid valve, the pressure valve, the wiring between them all, and the ECM.....I'd suspect the wiring, specifically the wire from the pressure sensor to the ECM.

The wires are as follows:

2 pin connector on pressure sensor - signal side is Blue with black, and the ground side is brown with black. The ground goes to the ground connection just below the intake air temp sensor. The BLU/BLK wire enters the ECM in the 31 pin connector, location 10.

The one pin connector on the solenoid valve is Green with yellow, and that wire enters the ECM at the 25 pin connector in location 3.

I'd bet that one of these wires of the ground is bad......I'd first jumper the ground wire at the pressure sensor and see if the problem goes away. You can then start measuring voltages at the ECM end of the wires.....hope this helps....Glen