Progress: Porsche Carrera GT

[91p10nizmo]

That is looking very nice Phil love the paint job.
Just a question where do you guys get that micromesh sand paper?
Thanks

[mickbench]

Originally Posted by RallyRaider

The paint I used was the aforementioned Mr Surfacer 1200 (my new preferred primer) then Tamiya spraycans. First Matt Black, then Gloss Black, followed by TS-13 Clear, all straight from the can. No fancy automotive stuff this time. The best trick with the rattle cans is to warm them up nice and hot before use. I have a electric oil heater I rest them on for 15-20 minutes so they are almost too hot to touch. Makes the paint flow much better but also boosts the pressure - the latter you have to allow for.


Biggest challenge is the mesh for the engine cover. I’ve managed to successfully shape one of the S27 PE mesh pieces, but am not sure how to attach it cleanly and strongly.

Those TS paints are good aren't they? I used TS black with no clear at all, applied addtional coats and it buffed out superbly. But, I heated the can once using the same method, and I was worried as I was shaking it, as the bottom of the can popped out. Thinking it was about to explode, and having an image of my face covered with paint, and my hand ripped open by a shredding can, I opted to only use hot tape water after that.. What did I do wrong?

And again, stunning paintjob, I can't see any orange peel, so it must be very light, light orange peel can be meshed out fine, I've cut out masses of orange peel before now.. LOL

[RallyRaider]

That does sound like you got the can a bit too hot Mick! I've never had that happen and at times had the can too hot to touch.

Micromesh can be easily found in Detail Master polishing kits. However, I cut out the middle man and bought mine direct from the microsurface website. They have hobby kits, or if you're serious 12"x12" sheets. The latter will last a while.

[Big Kahuna]

Looks great Phil.
I was wondering about that CGT in the sig.

[Big Kahuna]

Originally Posted by RallyRaider

That does sound like you got the can a bit too hot Mick! I've never had that happen and at times had the can too hot to touch.

I'd be worried about walking away and leaving the can on a surface that would continually put heat into the can....
The trials and tribulations of having young kids and needing to go inside sometimes during your painting sessions.

Originally Posted by RallyRaider

Micromesh can be easily found in Detail Master polishing kits. However, I cut out the middle man and bought mine direct from the microsurface website. They have hobby kits, or if you're serious 12"x12" sheets. The latter will last a while.

Which sheets do you use Phil?

I have the DM Polishing cloths, but they are looking tired. I would like to get some of these.


Nens

[RallyRaider]

Originally Posted by Big Kahuna

I'd be worried about walking away and leaving the can on a surface that would continually put heat into the can....

True Nens, but in my case the heater is one of those radiating ones that have a temperature control so it doesn't get hot enough to burn or hopefully, explode cans. Unless maybe the kids tamper with the control. Certainly something one should be careful with.

Originally Posted by Big Kahuna

Which sheets do you use Phil?

I bought one of the hobby kits from Microsurface, that's all I've use on my last four or five models. Exactly the same as DM I think - grits 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000 and 1200. Like yours, mine are getting tired and I'll have to retire them soon and cut up the big ones. The finer sheets don't get used as much I find, so last longer. I also plan to buy some of the coarser sheets Microsurface make, 1800 or so. I keep meaning to look into finding if they can be sourced through one of the Australian distributors listed on the website.

[Big Kahuna]

I have found some great 2400 sanding paper from Bunnings that is handy for knocking any orange peel off of the primer before painting color coats. I agree with the coarser grades of mesh. I too have worn them out before the finer coats. I will look during the week at getting a MM kit and individual sheets.

Be careful with the heater.
I got an absolutely fabulous paint finish on my Dodge Viper GTS when I heated up my paint in some freshly boiled water that I had outside the shed so it didn't add to the humidity inside the shed. It really reduced the imperfections of my Auto lacquer color coat and gave me a liquid glass finish for my clear coat.

Nowdays I use Auto lacquer as a basecoat and 2 part clear coat that doesn't orange peel(but u knew that already). I am yet to master polishing it (to eliminate any imperfections like dust etc), but thankfully it is excellent straight off the gun.


Nens

[tonioseven]

Phil, it's looks terrific so far!!

[CADguy]

Looks really good so far. I look forward to seeing what you do with this one.

That paint job is like butter! sooooooooooo smooooooth. But then again i shouldnt be surprised since your work is always flawless. Well done mate!

[gionc]

Fantastic shine, Phil: you push all to do something black. Fashion color on AF next Fall

[WasteGas]

That thing is so shiny it's even reflecting beyond my monitor

[bigfrit]

I am starting to seriously think you have got like a whole bunch of trained workmonkeys shrinkrayed to do your modeling for you.

This is just way too clean, i bow down to thee.

And what's up with this streetcar fad, Phil, going to be doing that for a while or what 's the sudden interest for those?

Oli

[cszakolczai]

super clean paint job and thanks for the information on how you pulled it off.
Chris

[RallyRaider]

Grrrrr. In case anybody was wondering why this build is taking so long - its because the modelling gods are not smiling on me at the moment.

Tonight I decided I wanted to paint the armrests on the door red instead of black. However was careless when removing the masking tape and ripped off the carbon fibre decals on one door. Then, I somehow lost one of the silver inserts - buggered if I know where it went. Oh well, I'm getting used to spending most of my modelling time on my knees grovelling about for lost parts....

Anyway I've cut back the ripped portions and should be able to replace the damaged part without too much of a join. At least I'm now decided the whole panel will get a flat coat and be done with, no more stuffing about masking over decals for me.