Universal door lock Actuator will work on 2001

[garync1]

2 Power Door Lock Actuators ONLY $6.49
Item number: 5838004544
This may be a little cheaper about 14.00 for both doors..If needed both front doors I also think they will work on the rear slidding doors have not had any problems with the back sliding doors yet.....

[cao226]

Add me to the list of those you have braved the universal actuator installation….and succeeded!! I have a 2000 Windstar LX and yesterday, I replaced both the power door lock actuators in both the front doors and everything is working great. Generally speaking I followed Gary’s lead (and the pictures on his blog) on how to do it. Here are the highlights from my experience, let me know if you have any questions.

1)I bought 4 actuators (I only needed 2) off eBay for $21 delivered.
2)Following Gary’s lead, I left the old actuators in place, but I did disconnect the power source from them and connected it to the new actuators (Gary’s didn’t do this…he spliced the line).
3)I used only once screw to hold the new mounting strip to the car (same bolt and location as Gary)
4)I used only once screw in the top hole of the actuator to attach it to the mounting strip… for more stability I wrapped electrical tap around the bottom of the actuator and mounting strip.
5)I accidentally attached the wires backward the first time, which made the thing go up when it should have been going down…make sure you test yours before you seal everything up

The first door (passenger) took about 1 ½ hours (as I figured everything out). The second door (driver’s side) took about 45 min.

Chris

[garync1]

Good Job!!! .. If you have problems with the electrical tape you can still add the other screw. Or better yet.Wire ties for extra support... QUOTE=cao226]Add me to the list of those you have braved the universal actuator installation….and succeeded!! I have a 2000 Windstar LX and yesterday, I replaced both the power door lock actuators in both the front doors and everything is working great. Generally speaking I followed Gary’s lead (and the pictures on his blog) on how to do it. Here are the highlights from my experience, let me know if you have any questions.

1)I bought 4 actuators (I only needed 2) off eBay for $21 delivered.
2)Following Gary’s lead, I left the old actuators in place, but I did disconnect the power source from them and connected it to the new actuators (Gary’s didn’t do this…he spliced the line).
3)I used only once screw to hold the new mounting strip to the car (same bolt and location as Gary)
4)I used only once screw in the top hole of the actuator to attach it to the mounting strip… for more stability I wrapped electrical tap around the bottom of the actuator and mounting strip.
5)I accidentally attached the wires backward the first time, which made the thing go up when it should have been going down…make sure you test yours before you seal everything up

The first door (passenger) took about 1 ½ hours (as I figured everything out). The second door (driver’s side) took about 45 min.

Chris[/quote]

[gene1956]

What is the blog address for directions in installing the universal actuator? I need to do the same thing for my 2000 Windstar. Getting it ready for sale since it is only getting 15 MPG.

[gene1956]

Originally Posted by garync1

http://windstarlock.blogspot.com
This is the site where I posted the pics and gives some info.. I have more pics that lewis form this forum is helping me with. I hope these work and will try to add more once i get it all figured out.. Gary
http://doorlock2.blogspot.com

Thanks for the pics and the wire configuration. Works great. It's a little noisier than original. Maybe has something to do with having only 1 screw holding it onto the bracket. Otherwise, this was a lot cheaper than having the dealer replace the unit.

[karoleeg]

I'm having a similar problem, I think, with our Windstar 2001. The remote wont' unlock on occasion, and when that happens usually I can use the key in the door and unlock the van from the driver's door. Today, the buttons inside the doors won't work either, so the only door I can unlock is the driver's door, with the key. This is a huge problem for us, and I would appreciate any insight anyone can give.

[garync1]

Originally Posted by karoleeg

I'm having a similar problem, I think, with our Windstar 2001. The remote wont' unlock on occasion, and when that happens usually I can use the key in the door and unlock the van from the driver's door. Today, the buttons inside the doors won't work either, so the only door I can unlock is the driver's door, with the key. This is a huge problem for us, and I would appreciate any insight anyone can give.

But it should still be unlocking the rear doors right. Does the door unlock/lock controls unlock the other doors except the fronts??? Just making sure you dont have a switch problem or relay problem. But if all other door locks work with the remote and door controls then you most likley have the door lock actuator problem.. It not a hard job just splicing 2 wires together and running the universal actuators in the right spot to mount.. I have a blog with the info, but if you need further info please let me know.. I think its about or getting close to a year with trouble free service on my universal door locks now. The very first one i did I had to remount but took 10min. The one on the blog I did has never had an issue.

[MARZBX157]

I am also having this problem with my 2000 3.8 at both front doors. I've just purchased 2 of these universal actuators and will attempt to do the fix when the weather gets a little nicer. I'll let you know how it goes. Thank you for taking the time to post your ideas on this forum as well for the pictures you provided.

[garync1]

Btt

[MARZBX157]

I finished installing both actuators and everything went well, thank you Gary for all your help. I would suggest using a test light as I had a bit of a problem on the passenger side door; the color of the wires were different than the driver side. driver side door= red and yellow but on the passenger the yellow was for the door ajar. this drove me crazy since kept trying to connect it to the actuator and it woundnt work so a word to the wise; use a test light before you splice into any wire. My passenger door ended up being red and blue.

[5greenmonkies]

I am having the same problem on my 2001 Windstar with the actuators but I question that four have gone bad at the same time. Both front doors and both sliding doors work intermittently, at best. I installed a new actuator as outlined in this thread, starting with the passenger door, but this one is not functioning when supporting the existing lock rod, or even by itself.

On my van I have 4 wires running to the lock motor (red, blue, black, and yellow/green) and the new actuator has two wires (blue and green). I attached the new actuator green to the existing red wire, and the new actuator blue to the existing yellow/green. I just tested these for current by activating the lock/unlock button and checking for current with my volt meter. Both connections showed current when I hit the lock, neither connection showed current when I hit the unlock. I also cut into the insulation on the red and black wires but and neither of those showed current while locking or unlocking.

Now, up to this point I failed to check the locks with the keyless remote. Interesting find when I used it. I tried unlocking the doors and with the first push the interior lights came on the driver's door tried to unlock, the second push caused the rest of the doors to try and unlock, and for kicks-n-grins I pushed it a third time and all locks tried to unlock along with the horn giving a short burst. The horn blew over and over with subsequent attempts to unlock until I locked the doors. Then, the process started all over as I noted.

Thoughts?

[garync1]

Now as for the 1st push on unlock,drivers door only unlock is normal. 2nd push all doors should unlock.. When locking 1st push locks doors. 2nd push lets you know all doors are locked by horn short beep, if you still hit lock after that it will do the same thing. Now for your rear door lock problem. Check the for metal contact pin points where the door meets with the other contact pins. This controls your rear speakers and door locks ETC.. This is on your rear sliding door and door frame.Take an eraser or contact cleaner and clean them..Did you check your relays first for the door locks?? #6 relay inside fuse box is one to check also # 8 fuse..

[5greenmonkies]

I failed to mention I cleaned the contact pins as my first step for checking the locks; it obviously never helped. Just checkd fueses 6 & 8, those are fine. Checked all 6 relays and they check fine (I tested by the instructions in my Hayes repair manual). Keyless seems to be working fine today, no more horn when unlocking the doors. I also checked fuse 18, saw it referenced in one of the threads. It checked fine too.

I want to check fuse 106 in the power distribution box because it feeds the #2 relay inside (accessory fuse delay relay), but I can't figure how to get the lid off. It looks like there are 4-6 clips. Is this right? I removed the front left head light to create more room but still no luck. Ideas?

[5greenmonkies]

Got the cover off the fuse/relay box in the engine compartment. Checked all the mini-fuses and replaced a couple that had corroded blade connectors (none of which have anything to do with the locks - ). I still want to check relay 106 (it is not a fuse) but I'm not sure if I can just pull that straight out or if I need a special tool. Getting frustrated and don't want to break anything and cause myself yet more work.

I also used the keyless remote which of course locks and unlocks the doors intermittently, but much more consistently than the door switches.

My Haynes repair manual (1995 - 2003) shows a Master Lock Relay Control on page 12-43, any ideas on checking this component? Not sure what else to do.

[garync1]

Sorry you went through the actuator/motor job and seeing how it works better with the remote than the door button makes me think you have a problem in that area. The engine fuse box I don't think has any thing to do with locks, but the inside fuse box does #6 relay and #8 fuse in the inside fuse box. The master door lock relay If I remember right is under the dash somewhere Just can't recall
I will take a look at mine and see what I find. OK went out pulled the stereo and still can't track the relay.. I seem to hear the relay click or think thats what i am hearing, more toward the fuse box area but just can't remember where i found it before..Or if it does have one. I did check a relay though.. I am stumped on that one..