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[chevrock22]

Originally Posted by MT-2500

For the oil pressure aid just good old STP engine oil treatment/motor honey the good old thick stuff will help a little.
Weak Bearings should not affect gas mileage.
If you power wash it just watch th dist cap. It may get moisture/water in the dist cap. If so remove cap and let it dry out. Wash when engine cool or cold is better.
MT

You put that motor honey in, Im sorry but anyone who puts that in there engine is a idiot. Be sure to ask and research about that if you dont believe me, before you pour TAR into your engine.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by chevrock22

You put that motor honey in, Im sorry but anyone who puts that in there engine is a idiot. Be sure to ask and research about that if you dont believe me, before you pour TAR into your engine.

Well good grief. What is your problem.
The poster here was needing help with his low oil pressure.
I have used motor honey on many older worn engines many times with good results.
And it has been used on the race track in many racing engines.
Have you not saw that STP commerical on TV?
The main purpose of motor honey/old STP is to buildup the oil body that helps oil pressure and oil comsumption.
Works good on a engine that has wear and I have saw some people that use it in a new engine with no problems and may have even helped it.
MT

[eagle0415]

Originally Posted by TaNK_Em

Hey everyone, I need some specifics on how to improve my gas mileage for my situation. I have a 1993 K1500 V8 5.7 350. I’m looking for some ways to improve my gas mileage, right now I drive with no tail gate does that help? I know my main bearing in my engine is shot and I get terrible oil pressure mainly when idling does that have anything to do with it? What all should I get replaced to help get better fuel economy. I am due for another oil change and I’m thinking new plugs and wires the air filter is pretty new.

Any advice would be great

Thanks,

Kevin

I have a 95 Silverado, 5.7L....I replaced the exhaust with a free flow muffler. That helped both gas milage and horsepower (provided I could keep my LEAD foot off the throttle). Increased about a mile, sometimes two (depending on weather and road conditions) per gal.

Dennis

[TaNK_Em]

Well over the weekend me and my dad put the new spark plugs and wires in. this took a great deal of time being it was a pain in the ass to do. Anyways it’s running pretty good on the new plugs. I’m going to invest in a flow master here eventually once I get the general maintenance stuff done. I was talking to my neighbor and he says it might not be my main bearing that’s shot but rather a bad oil pump. So how difficult is it to change the oil pump I’m pretty sure it’s inside the oil pan. As far as doing oil change what should I get right now I have 10w-30 in it and I’m thinking of getting 10w-40. Which is the best for my truck? Also when dissembling my air filter assembly to get to the distributor we found some sort of mice nest in the assembly. It makes me wonder how long my truck sat with the previous owners.

- Kevin

[eagle0415]

Chevys are somewhat unique in that the oil pressure fluxuates in somewhat extremes. On both my 95 and 98, the oil pressure on the road will read near 80 and at a stop sign it will drop to near 40. I asked a mechanic about it cause I thought it was strange. He said as long as the thing has some pressure, say 5 or above, you will be just fine.

Hope this helps,

Dennis

[MT-2500]

Flat rate time on oil pump varies some from 4-8 hrs.
Take a look at the oil pan and see if it looks very easy to remove.
A reg K-1500 around 4 hrs or the silverado may run up to 8 hrs.
But first put a manual oil pressure gauge on it and check the actual oil pressure.
You can not go by electric gauge on dash.
Also make sure you are using the correct AC-Delco oil filter.
Fram and othe brands of aftermarket oil filters sometimes cause oil pressure problems.
And sometimes a good oil change will bring up the oil pressure.
Does the oil have a gas smell or how long has it been since it was changed?
MT

[TaNK_Em]

As far as what Dennis said, sometimes at idle after driving such as stopping at lights the oil pressure drops all the way down into the red and check gauges comes on. Mt – shit that’s a long time. I’ll have to do the test with a manual pressure. I have kept it up to date on the oil changes and I don’t think it’s my fram filter that’s causing the low pressure. Next week in auto class I’m going to put a mechanics stethoscope up to it and see if I can hear what’s knocking rather it be the engine from not getting enough oil or the main bearing. Right now i’m not really sure because the knocking only happens for a few seconds when I start it and at idle, so i’m actually thinking it might be my oil pump and not my main bearing. I still have to put the new drive belt on and get new shocks and breaks. Also I have a question for anyone that’s good with electrical. I am putting some off roading lights on my truck and have calculated it to be drawing about 35 amps. I don’t think my truck and its current power output is going to be enough. If I put a 140 amp alternator in there will everything be able to handle that much? I’m pretty sure i'm going to have to wire all of the lights right into the battery and fuse it along with grounding it to the frame.

- Kevin