intermitten starting Camary 1991

[rfrank]

I'm trying to track down an ignition problem with a 1991 Camary. Most of the time it starts right up. But every 5-10 times it just sits there. So far however, if you hold the ignition key in the start position, it starts up after several seconds of silence.

I've had the starter replaced, and replaced the battery (which seemed to help for a week or so but then the symptom came back)

Today, it took about several tries and about 20 seconds before it kicked over. Once it's going, it's great. Seems to happen after it's been sitting a couple hours or more.

Question: What's the next logical step in tracking this down? Try replacing the ignition switch on my own (just an occasional weekend mechanic), OR have the pros look for the neutral safety switch, OR??? something else.

Thank in advance for your insights.

My first time to Automotive Forums and I'm totally impressed with the knowledge and insights.

Bob

[ice745]

In my opinion, it sounds more like a battery problem, if it happens after the car sits for a few hours. I would just test the battery with a volt-meter. You'll probably need a friend to help with this... First, just turn the key to "On" don't try to start it yet, and don't have the head-lights or heater fans on or radio, anything else should be fine. Test the batteries voltage, it should be around 12 volts. Now, while still having the volt-meter on the battery, have someone try to start the car. The batteries voltage will drop, because of the high load that should be put on it. If it doesn't drop at all during the silence, then its not getting a load for some reason (could be a faulty switch or starter, something like that) if it drops like 1 volt, and is around 11 or high 10, that should be normal. If it gets to low 10s, and even into 9 volts or less, the battery just can't handle that load. It could be a short, or a faulty starter, or a dead battery. Then try to jump it, if it jumps and starts fine, then it would be the battery. Search the forums for things about 'dark-current' you should be able to find info on that, thats one thing you should check if your battery is dead.

That is just one thing to check, it could also be neutral switches or something, I'm not knowledgeable in that area, but I hope I can at least help get you started.... if you get the pun...haha...sorry

^^ I forgot to add above that the 'voltage drop' is only temporary, and will only...or should only...last during the time a heavy load is put on the battery.

[DFBonnett]

When this occurs do you try switching off then retrying? Have you tried jiggling the shifter while trying to crank? Do you hear a click? On my '93 there is a starter relay up under the dash on the passenger side. You might take a look at that. A relay can be intermittent like your problem.

[Mike Gerber]

The comment about "the new battery helped for a week or so" tells me that either the alternator isn't charging the battery properly due to a defective alternator or slipping alternator belt or you have an excessive "dark current draw" as ice745 suggested. This is the current the car is using when the car is off. While the car is off, the ecu's (computer's) memory must be maintained along with the radio presets. You can use the DVM to check the battery and alternator output as ice suggested, and also to check the dark current as he suggested. With the car off, disconnect the negative battery cable and set the DVM to a miliamp scale. Now place the 2 leads of the dvm between the battery post and the battery cable. The reading should be less than 20 mileamps. If it is noticeably higher, than that you have an excessive dark current draw. That is killing your battery. You can track it down by pulling the fuses one at a time and rechecking the dark current draw with each fuse out. When the draw drops down to normal with a particular fuse removed, the problem lies in one of the items protected by that fuse. You have to then begin checking those items and their wiring. I have seen many times when an aftermarket alarm goes haywire and results in an excessive dark current draw. Do you have an aftermarket alarm system installed?

If your battery and alternator check out OK and you don't have an excessive dark current draw, then I would be suspect of that starter you replaced. I have seen rebuilt starters and alternators be defective right out of the box. You might look at changing that out again. I prefer finding an auto electrical shop and having my OEM unit rebuilt, rather than buying an off the shelf rebuit unit at an auto parts store. I think you get a better rebuild that way IMHO.

Good luck with the problem.

Mike

[mystic67]

When the car does not start, try leaving the key/ignition in the on position (all the lights on the dash should be on). Disconnect the starter wire (small one that plugs in) and run a "jumper" wire from the starter connection to the positive battery terminal. If the car starts, then you have a problem with the ignition switch or ignition relay.

I have an 89 that has the same problem. I installed a secondary (backup) ignition switch that runs directly from my battery to my starter.

[phild01]

The problem seems common enough for someone out there who may know the answer. My experience with an SV21 87 Camry is very similiar,though I admit to not holding the ignition switch on. The car is possessed! The obvious things don't seem to help. Tried changing many things like inhibitor switch, starter motor, battery with no luck. My greatest success was the already suggested jumping of the starter motor directly from the battery (starter solenoid that is). So I setup a realy to perform this function but curiously it would not start with this arrangement even though it was doing the same thing electrically. I am now disabling the circuit that draws current when the car is parked but this too has failed. So usually the car will start but occasionally the car responds with a click similiar to a flat battery. Come back 10 minutes later, and hour later or maybe a day later and it will start. This is bizzarr and I hope someone there will stop laughing and suggest the secret they could know. Incidentally and it may be related, when I remove the interior dome fuse, as well as this circuit being disabled, the park lights will no longer work! I pulled that fuse because it was the only circuit pulling a bit of a current when parked. The reading I got was .2A then .05A after pulling the dome fuse.

[DFBonnett]

Originally Posted by rfrank

I've had the starter replaced, and replaced the battery (which seemed to help for a week or so but then the symptom came back)

When the starter was replaced, was the solenoid also replaced ? I'm wondering about the contacts in the solenoid.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml

FWIW
YMMV

[phild01]

As for me the solenoid is bypassed with a remote relay instead.

[matik07]

Originally Posted by rfrank

I'm trying to track down an ignition problem with a 1991 Camary. Most of the time it starts right up. But every 5-10 times it just sits there. So far however, if you hold the ignition key in the start position, it starts up after several seconds of silence.

I've had the starter replaced, and replaced the battery (which seemed to help for a week or so but then the symptom came back)

Today, it took about several tries and about 20 seconds before it kicked over. Once it's going, it's great. Seems to happen after it's been sitting a couple hours or more.

Question: What's the next logical step in tracking this down? Try replacing the ignition switch on my own (just an occasional weekend mechanic), OR have the pros look for the neutral safety switch, OR??? something else.

Thank in advance for your insights.

My first time to Automotive Forums and I'm totally impressed with the knowledge and insights.

Bob

had similar on 1987 sv21 model
had starter replaced and had a relay put on.
Ended up being the neutral switch for the auto trans.
Was totally corroded.
Get your merchanic to try and find a good second hand one as original toyota part is expensive
Good luck!

[phild01]

Thanks...I believe the neutral switch mentioned is the same thing that I am calling an inhibitor switch. I got a 2nd hand one ages ago as a new one was around $A300. I inspected the contacts visually and with a DMM and these seemed ok. I suspect more than one thing is creating the same symtomatic start failure. Maybe the ignittion switch is faulty and maybe the inhibitor switch isn't as good as I believe (and have found these very hard to get suggesting many other camrys have experienced the inhibitor switch problem!)

[jdmccright]

This thread is 3 years old and the forum linked is over a year old. Make sure your info is relevant as well as timely before you post. Thanks.