Ground Control . . . ??

[i_rebel]

I've installed my suspension . . . it took Jason and I almost no time . . . once you subtract the time spent drinking beer, and the extra time spent trying to figure out which beer was mine, and which was his . . . ("well, mine just came out of the fridge, so it should have more condensation . . .") . . .

GC/AGX's . . . I'm still analyzing the ride but 9.5 hours from VA to NY, told me that I'll love it . . . eventually.

All I have to do is get over the install, and my concerns about the springs holding together in the rear, and the collars staying put all around.

Geo, it seems as if I may not have used enough duct tape. I don't say that because I have noise . . . I say that because I'm hearing that a lot of it should be used. I only used one layer.

I'm REALLY concerned about the front springs though. How tight should the piston lock nuts be?

It seems that when I've tightened all the way (normal thing to do with any nut), I can't adjust the height of the spring. The collar won't turn unless "coerced" with a chisel/hammer (don't ask!) . . .

Anyway, what are the recommendations for the front install/adjustment?

I'm under the impression that I'd get more suspension travel by moving locking the nuts on the piston rod as close to the top of the threaded portion as possible, true?

If so, that would also mean that I actually compress the spring quite a bit by adjusting the lock nuts ALL the way to the bottom of the threaded portion of the piston rod, true?

I think there is some extra suspension tuning to be had by playing with the rod, and moving the nuts around a bit . . .

[P10DET]

Originally posted by i_rebel
GC/AGX's . . . I'm still analyzing the ride but 9.5 hours from VA to NY, told me that I'll love it . . . eventually.

What rates are you using? I moved my 275 to the front and put 200 on the rear and the ride in my car is really improved - except upon the harshest bumps. I think the higher rate springs absorb heavy bumps better. I'm probably hitting the bump stops on the worst bumps now.

Originally posted by i_rebel
Geo, it seems as if I may not have used enough duct tape. I don't say that because I have noise . . . I say that because I'm hearing that a lot of it should be used. I only used one layer.

You did not use enought duct tape. I used several layers. The threaded collar should barely fit over the duct tape when you are through.

Originally posted by i_rebel
I'm REALLY concerned about the front springs though. How tight should the piston lock nuts be?

Very tight. The piston shaft cannot turn in the upper plate, so you should be able to tighten it down good.

Originally posted by i_rebel
It seems that when I've tightened all the way (normal thing to do with any nut), I can't adjust the height of the spring. The collar won't turn unless "coerced" with a chisel/hammer (don't ask!) . . .

Anyway, what are the recommendations for the front install/adjustment?

I'm under the impression that I'd get more suspension travel by moving locking the nuts on the piston rod as close to the top of the threaded portion as possible, true?

Unless you have your terminology very wrong, this is not true. Height is adjusted by turning the lower spring perch on the threaded collar. Once you have the height you are looking for, you can tighten the bolt in the spring perch to keep it from moving on its own.

Originally posted by i_rebel
If so, that would also mean that I actually compress the spring quite a bit by adjusting the lock nuts ALL the way to the bottom of the threaded portion of the piston rod, true?

I think there is some extra suspension tuning to be had by playing with the rod, and moving the nuts around a bit . . .

I hope your terminology is wrong. What you are actually describing not only won't work, but it scares me. I'll look at the instructions tonight and make sure I'm not using the wrong terminology.

[i_rebel]

What rates are you using? I moved my 275 to the front and put 200 on the rear and the ride in my car is really improved - except upon the harshest bumps. I think the higher rate springs absorb heavy bumps better. I'm probably hitting the bump stops on the worst bumps now.

I'm running 340 (f), 250 (r) . . . not bad at all, I'm actually aiming for bumps and dips in the road . . . no ill effects. AGX's set to: 3(f), 6(r) . . .

You did not use enought duct tape. I used several layers. The threaded collar should barely fit over the duct tape when you are through.

yeah, I kinda figured . . . I refuse to take all that schitt apart for some extra duct tape though . . . at least not any time soon.

Very tight. The piston shaft cannot turn in the upper plate, so you should be able to tighten it down good.

That's funny . . . When I first installed the front end, I had compressed the springs first, and tightened the lock nuts all the way. I didn't need to tighten the lock nuts any more after installing them. only problem was that that made it extrememly difficult (chisel/hammer) for me to adjust the perch even after loosening the allen bolt(in the perch) all the way. What I did was I loosened the lock nuts at the top of the shaft, decompressing the spring, and then I was able to turn the adjustable perch without a problem. When I went back to tightn the lock nuts on the piston shaft I had to hold the shaft tops with vice grips in one hand and tighten the nuts with the other.

I hope your terminology is wrong. What you are actually describing not only won't work, but it scares me. I'll look at the instructions tonight and make sure I'm not using the wrong terminology.

You're a scaredy cat but yeah . . . as far as I can tell, we were describing the same thing in different terms.

My questions in appropriate terminology:

When installing the front strut/spring assembly . . . is it recommended or necessary for the spring to be compressed first?

If not, why not?

If so, should I just expect that every time I want to adjust the height in the front of the car, I must first loosen the piston lock nuts so that I can then be able to turn the adjustable perch?

Doesn't it seem as if there may be some extra suspension tuning to be had by adjusting the lock nuts at the top of the piston . . . inasmuch as by doing so, you can alternately compress or decompress the front springs?

It seems to me that . . . if I compress the springs all the way, and have the lock nuts locking at the end of the threads in the piston shaft, I make the springs tighter . . . no?

[P10DET]

Originally posted by i_rebel
I'm running 340 (f), 250 (r) . . . not bad at all, I'm actually aiming for bumps and dips in the road . . . no ill effects. AGX's set to: 3(f), 6(r) . . .

Holy cats! I was running 340/275 at 2/2 for damper settings. I think you have the dampers way over adjusted.

Originally posted by i_rebel
yeah, I kinda figured . . . I refuse to take all that schitt apart for some extra duct tape though . . . at least not any time soon.

I think you're risking ruining your new suspension.

Originally posted by i_rebel
That's funny . . . When I first installed the front end, I had compressed the springs first

Say WHAT???

There is absolutely NO reason for compressing the ERS springs that come with the GCs before installation. Did Jason tell you to do this?

Originally posted by i_rebel
only problem was that that made it extrememly difficult (chisel/hammer) for me to adjust the perch even after loosening the allen bolt(in the perch) all the way.

Holy sheeeit! You've got something really screwed up dude. Mabye it's just your understanding of how this whole thing works. But you've got something(s) all wrong.

Originally posted by i_rebel
What I did was I loosened the lock nuts at the top of the shaft, decompressing the spring, and then I was able to turn the adjustable perch without a problem.

Steve, all that is required to adjust the ride height is to lift the tires off the ground. The spings will float freely (no tension on the perches) when the tires are off the ground.

Originally posted by i_rebel
When I went back to tightn the lock nuts on the piston shaft I had to hold the shaft tops with vice grips in one hand and tighten the nuts with the other.

I'm confused as hell. I hope you didn't ruin your AGX already. When you say shaft tops, are you talking at the adjuster, or part of the piston?

Originally posted by i_rebel
When installing the front strut/spring assembly . . . is it recommended or necessary for the spring to be compressed first?

NO!

You should not need spring compressors at all. Jason really helped you with this??????

Originally posted by i_rebel
If not, why not?

Because you simply adjust the perches down and the springs will be under no tension when you install the upper perch.

Originally posted by i_rebel
If so, should I just expect that every time I want to adjust the height in the front of the car, I must first loosen the piston lock nuts so that I can then be able to turn the adjustable perch?

No. If you don't understand at this point, send me a private e-mail and I'll send you my phone number and we can straighten this all out.

Originally posted by i_rebel
Doesn't it seem as if there may be some extra suspension tuning to be had by adjusting the lock nuts at the top of the piston . . . inasmuch as by doing so, you can alternately compress or decompress the front springs?

YIKES!!!

Originally posted by i_rebel
It seems to me that . . . if I compress the springs all the way, and have the lock nuts locking at the end of the threads in the piston shaft, I make the springs tighter . . . no?

No.

[G-Forces]

Originally posted by P10DET
You should not need spring compressors at all. Jason really helped you with this??????

To clarify you're talking about JGY and not me!

[P10DET]

Originally posted by G-Forces

To clarify you're talking about JGY and not me!

Yes, you are quite right.

I thought about that just after I sent it.

[i_rebel]

You, my friend have a comprehension problem.

And you are WAY too uptight. Stay off of the caffeine for a while . . . or whatever your "upper" of choice happens to be.

Listen closely:

I did compress the front springs before installing them. This, I believe, is what made it difficult to adjust their height. There was obviously too much pressure on the perch, even with the wheels off of the ground. Plain and simple, no special terminology needed. I want to know if I should have done that, or not . . . and why.

You also know from experience that this suspension setup comes with very little instructions.


How in the hell can the dampers be over adjusted? They adjust to be harder than where I have them set now. Basically, they are within their functioning capacity. What the hell are you on?

If you just want to make this look horrible, you've succeeded.

There's a 90% chance that you've earned an ass whooping at the next SERCA meet. I'll let you know . . .

You got by at the last one because my girlfriend enjoyed talking with your wife.

Straighten up old-timer . . . I'm not amused.

We're supposed to be having fun and educating each other in this forum, not acting like a bunch of stiffs. If, you think I've done something wrong, say it with tact. No need to be dramatic and immature.

You're no expert on suspension tuning or installation, so don't pretend to be one.

Please behave yourself in this arena . . . save the drama for the mailing list.

[P10DET]

Originally posted by i_rebel
You, my friend have a comprehension problem.

And you are WAY too uptight. Stay off of the caffeine for a while . . . or whatever your "upper" of choice happens to be.

Listen closely:

Steve, you either have some things big time screwed up or there is a communications problem here. It sounds like you have a bunch of things messed up and I'm trying to give you some serious help, including discussing it with you on the phone. My concern in genuine. If you don't want the help, I'm through discussing it.

Originally posted by i_rebel
If you just want to make this look horrible, you've succeeded.

I'm only going by what you've written.

Originally posted by i_rebel
There's a 90% chance that you've earned an ass whooping at the next SERCA meet. I'll let you know . . .

Uh, you might want to be careful issuing threats - especially when someone is actually looking out for you.

Originally posted by i_rebel
You got by at the last one because my girlfriend enjoyed talking with your wife.

Straighten up old-timer . . . I'm not amused.

Now I am not amused.

Originally posted by i_rebel
You're no expert on suspension tuning or installation, so don't pretend to be one.

I may not be an expert by many standards, but I dare say I have a lot more knowledge and experience with this than almost anyone here.

Originally posted by i_rebel
Please behave yourself in this arena . . . save the drama for the mailing list.

Don't worry Steve, I will not try to help you again.

I'm not sure what you are doing, but the things you have written about trying actually sound dangerous. But I'm done helping here. In addition, I am now going to ask Jason to close this thread.

[igor@af]

Ok, no need to be disrespectful to each other.

Thread closed.

[G-Forces]

Umm, yeah! Heh, I'm just seeing what the little "Thread Closed" button does. I guess only mods have it. So there, Igor beat me to it! Play nice kids.