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Old 02-10-2006, 03:57 PM
CODITHsaves CODITHsaves is offline
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race a 98accord?

am i going to beat a 98 V6 accord 2door automatic with my 00 V6 eclipse manual or am i going to feel stupid
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Old 02-10-2006, 04:16 PM
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Re: race a 98accord?

Quote:
Originally Posted by CODITHsaves
am i going to beat a 98 V6 accord 2door automatic with my 00 V6 eclipse manual or am i going to feel stupid

just so everyone doesn't go and flame him for street racing

this is hypothetical , so please don't flame

hypothetically, if you were to line up w/ a 98 Accord 4cyl . Automatic then you should be able to beat it, it might have vtec, but it is a very small amount of vtec.

if you are racing the automatic V6 version, you might have a little bit more trouble with it, but it certainly isn't not doable

if you drop your clutch at4k rpm's you will feel stupid
good luck and hypothetically, don't get your ass handed to you (and there is a whole racing section in AF.com in case you didn't know)
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Old 02-10-2006, 06:08 PM
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Re: race a 98accord?

As much as it pains me to say it, Accord V6's are pretty quick. For a family car they have really midrange accell, like from 45 on. I dont know what they are like from a dig, but you will have to be on your A game if you want it to be close. There is a guy that lives around me with a 2000 or so V6 Accord and when i have rolled him the only time i pulled away was at the start because I had the 5sp and he was auto. After that it was pretty even, maybe i was like pulling him at like .2 mph. Good luck and let us know.

Just a quick question. Does anyone with the V6 5sp have a hard time keeping the wheels down in first gear after launching. Im not talking off the line, but after about 10mph the rpm's just shoot up...i cant get it to stick with the throttle wide open. Ive got Potenza's on my front, and first gear still walks a little, but 2nd grabs like a mother after a little spin.
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Mods: SPEC 2+ Clutch, Fidanza Flywheel, PowerStop Rotors, Red Stuff Pads, Stainless Brake Lines, B&M Short Shifter, Energy Suspension Shifter Bushings, Deyeme Firm Motor Mounts, KYB AGX shocks with Eibach Proline springs, Halo Projector Headlights with HID 12000K Conversion, TYC Carbon Tails, Kicker SS6.5 Component Front, SS MB8 Custom rear, Tsunami 2F Capacitor, ***New Stuff*** JVC KD-AV7010 In Dash DVD Player, Kicker L7 12" Woofer, Kenwood KAC-X10D Mono Amp
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Old 02-10-2006, 07:14 PM
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Re: race a 98accord?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rodbls
Just a quick question. Does anyone with the V6 5sp have a hard time keeping the wheels down in first gear after launching. Im not talking off the line, but after about 10mph the rpm's just shoot up...i cant get it to stick with the throttle wide open. Ive got Potenza's on my front, and first gear still walks a little, but 2nd grabs like a mother after a little spin.
i have worn to shit general tires and i have a the same problem and i have no answer, i just dont open it up all the way till the very short end of 1st gear

i figured this was just a pretty much unavoidable problem with reasonably high torqued fwd cars
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Old 02-11-2006, 12:17 AM
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Re: race a 98accord?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rodbls
Just a quick question. Does anyone with the V6 5sp have a hard time keeping the wheels down in first gear after launching. Im not talking off the line, but after about 10mph the rpm's just shoot up...i cant get it to stick with the throttle wide open. Ive got Potenza's on my front, and first gear still walks a little, but 2nd grabs like a mother after a little spin.
i did watch my friend's stock GS-T (like he didn't do the free mods at all either) stay even with a v6 accord like the one you are talking about, those things are quick, you can't mess up if it is a v6 accord for sure, or you'll never get it back

yeah i think it has something to do with the clutch, cuz my mph don't increase and they would if the wheels were spinning wouldn't it?

i try to never go WOT in first, just asking for trouble. it also works better at 3/4 throttle or even half in first for me. i haven't applied it to a track yet, but i get some massive wheel hop if i jam through first gear.

i think i have my launches down good though and i can't wait to hit the track and get some real numbers.

i try to baby it into second, can't afford to burn these tires too fast and the flywheel won't like you jamming second up like that

maybe i should get a how-to Race a 3g compiled together. they aren't the easiest things to get off the line w/o wheel hop, spin, torquesteer. etc.

i'll work on that.... after i figure out if my technique works
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Old 02-11-2006, 03:31 AM
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Re: race a 98accord?

I wasnt suggesting that I thought something was broke with my car, I was just askin around if other people had the same thing going on. Yeah, I use WOT in 1st until about 3K then have to back off a little. But right before I shift at about 5K I smash the loud pedal and then mash 2nd. For as shot as my clutch is, it actually gets hooked up pretty good. Cant wait for my Bday this month so I can get my motor mounts. I still have that midget with a squeeky toy under the hood, and I feel like a damn fool drivin around.

I agree that while our car isnt the fastest, nor the best handeling, it can be rather hard to drive. I am sure any FWD car is a handfull, but the stock V6 is quite torquey around 2500, and torque steer can be pretty bad especially on rutted asphault roads. Elchico, it may be a good idea to make a thread just noting some tips of the trade for our car. General launching, shifting, and brakeing points.

Another question: with a manual, do your BRAKES work better with the car in gear and upshifting, or in neutral? One of my friends is a racecar driver (he has a GT-1 Corvette) and he said that when you go into a spin the best thing to do is put both feet in hard (clutch and brake). I know that you will stop faster if you upshit and brake because there are 2 elements being used (engine and brakes). BUT, are your brakes actually working harder with the car in gear because they are trying to slow the motor down AND the car? If I am not making myself clear, in the instance that you have to slam on them to prevent rear ending, will you stop faster with upshifting and braking, or just neutral braking?
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Old 02-11-2006, 12:39 PM
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Re: race a 98accord?

neutral and braking, if you engine brake as well as use your wheel brakes, you run the risk of locking up and killing your engine, which leaves you without some power to maneuver the steering wheel and if you need to get on your car so you can get around something, it won't respond

When i hit the deer. I was on the highway, i hit the brakes, and thinking that it would stop faster with the car in gear, i ended up killing it when i locked up, i got shaken (already hit the deer almost before my foot was on the brake pedal) , let off the brake a little bit, caught some traction and the car started up (moving, and thrown in gear popstarted) so i jammed the clutch and i killed it 2 more times before i came to a complete stop. Now i just don't mess with it, clutch in, brake, throw it in neutral clutch out. It's just less of a hassle if you get into a mess. The brakes on your wheels are only slowing down your car as a whole, your engine's transmission is what slows your engine down. they work independently of each other, but can perform the same task when you want to slow down. the brakes on your wheels do not work harder if you leave it in gear and it is actually easier on them. But your brakes on your wheels were meant for stopping whereas your engine/trans is made to get the car moving. personally i think its best to leave them doingthe jobs they were meant to do (unless its snowy and slick, then engine braking is a godsend)

and just for the record i don't think the stock clutches hold that well, i've had a couple occasions in the wet conditions where i would spin first, throw it in second, and the clutch wouldn't quite grab for some reason, throw it in third, and all i could smell was the fried shrimp that everyone hates. hence, i dont' think the stock clutch is that great, and i'm disappointed in myself for having rechosen a stock clutch. really wish i had gone w/ an ACT heavy duty

i have had the same problem you have, but i never get WOT before 3k rpm, at that point your just dumping fuel without burning it since it can't quite get enough air to burn the fuel (at least theoretically) 1/2 before 3k for me and 3/4 or so afterwards until i hit 5500 rpm, shift second.

I'll work on the general driving questions thread / driving techniques, but it'll prolly take a while. and i'll get some good info from eclipsed4utoo, cuz he's always got some good info to throw in

motor mounts are a dream come true for me, they make evyerthing run so much more smoothly and consistently. honestly, it makes it much easier if you are taking off the line
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