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#1 | |
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AF Enthusiast
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Light Mounting/Wiring?
I've been thinking about putting a pair of KC Daylighters up on the top of my Xterra. I'm curious as to how you guys with lights on top are mounting the lights, as well as how you ran the wiring. I don't want to do anything permanent such as drilling into the rack, and I'd like the wiring to be hidden in order to have that "factory installed" appearance. Just curious as to how you did it.
Thanks,
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-Toy4x4Guy |
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#2 | |
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AF Regular
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Stafford, Virginia
Posts: 80
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Can't have your cake and eat it too...
Either got to run the wiring in through the door and sacrifice the "factory look" or you have to bust out the drill and sacrifice the "permanent nature" of the mod.
I did the Warmonger mod and drilled the roof underneath the roof rack. If I ever decide to remove them, I'll plug the holes underneath and on the rack and replace the rack. Noone would ever be the wiser unless they remove the entire roof rack. |
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#3 | |
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AF Enthusiast
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Since I'm not going to sell the Xterra, I will drill the roof. I've just got to make my mind up on what lights I want. I'm leaning toward the BlitzForce.
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G o l i a t h ~~~ [email protected] ********************************* 33x10.5 BFG KMs on AR-767|ARB Bumper|SR Skid Plates|EOE Sliderz|2" Body Lift|Custom Rear Tire Carrier & Bumper| MAXC ********************************* |
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#4 | ||
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AF Enthusiast
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-Toy4x4Guy |
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#5 | |
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AF Regular
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Toronto
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Here is what I did
I'm in the middle of updating my web page, but I'll share these photos for the time being.
Once you have decided where you want the wires to come through, remove the roof rack. I did not want the wire coming from the front of the truck so I decided to use the middle foot of the stock roof rack. Under the foot you'll notice 2 nuts, there is no reason to remove these(unless you're married then it's already taken care of). I drilled in between the two and ran the wire from the inside out. With the foot off the roof rack align the wire and mark an area to drill. Use silicone and black rubber sealant along with rubber grommets to protect the wires and seal the hole. Here it is before I added the finishing touches. I'll have a more detailed how to once I finish the page. At least this gives you an idea. |
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#6 | ||
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AF Enthusiast
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Re: Here is what I did
Quote:
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-Toy4x4Guy |
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#7 | |
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#8 | |
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AF Regular
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Toronto
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I never did remove the headliner, there was no reason to. Just remove the the panels between the front and rear seats(where the seatbelt is) , the weather stripping, and the handle above the rear door. You can hold the liner down enough to handle the wire and pass it through the hole. Becareful drilling from the outside in or you may drill into the liner, I did not but I can see it happen if your not used to working a drill.
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#9 | |
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AF Regular
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I ran my power to the rear of the truck and then through the rubber at the top left of the hatch where the power for the wiper comes from the truck into the hatch.
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#10 | |
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AF Newbie
![]() Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Surrey, British Columbia
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If or when I put lights on the roof I'd go with the Warmonger mod . Its clean AND well protected. Using one of the stock cross-overs as the lights mounting points. Adding a good quality plug on the wires that come out of the rack as to remove the light bar if I don't want it on the truck. I put a boat up there alot.
Just my thought.
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Rutt Nutts Offroad |
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#11 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Toronto
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Yeah, I used a stock cross member as a light bar with two 4 wire trailer plugs. This allows me to remove the light bar in about 1 minute. I did not like the idea of hard wiring the lights to the roof, you never know when you'll need that room.
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#12 | ||
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AF Enthusiast
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Quote:
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-Toy4x4Guy |
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