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#1
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With the onset of the noise in my transfer case, I am considering my options if it goes on me soon. How hard is it to replace one as a complete unit? It doesn't appear to be to difficult, but I do not have a service manual to give me the whole removal procedure.
I was thinking it may be a cost saving option (especially considering the high miles on my truck) to replace it with a used transfer case. I have been searching the used parts market, and it looks like I could get something decent for about $600 or so. This would be with aprox. 75-100K on it, and no guarantee of course... It may be risky, but would cost a lot less than rebuilding mine I would think. I still don't know what is going wrong with mine at this point, but it is making clicking popping noises... Anyone ever drop there's yourself? Is it just a matter of removing driveshafts and the crossmembers while it is supported, and sliding it off the trans tailshaft? Draining the case first would be a good idea I would think...
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~Dave~ '08 Chevy HHR SS, Victory Red, 5 spd. 2.0L Turbo, 52K mi. '98 Buick Riviera, Black, 3.8L Super-Charged, 228K mi. '98 Chevy Tahoe LT, 5.7 Vortec, Black 241K mi. '70 Pontiac Firebird Formula 400, 4spd 200k+ mi., in process restoration '10 Dodge Grand Caravan SE, 11K mi. |
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#2
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Rebuild not Replace
I have the same issues with my transfer case and I bought a chain a new set of gears and a bearing kit that replaces all the bearings in the case so there is no play in the bearings to allow early chain wear. I bought all this for 300.00. and to pull the T_case is very simple.
1 drain the case 2 remove the drive shafts F/ R 3 unbolt the cross member and I believe the 6 bolts from the T-Case to Transmission and disconnect the wiring to the case 4 have a friend or buddy help pull the cross member and lower the case 5 pull all the bolts from the case I believe there are 10 or 12 6 Remove the two speed sensor they will catch on the internals when you are trying to pull the cases apart 7 On the 246 case you need to spread the snap ring on the front output shaft while pulling the two halves apart this may be the same on the 241 and 243 but not sure.next you will begin to replace the worn parts 8The bearing in the 246 case has a plastic retainer which failed on mine so I got the rebuild kit that has the a sealed and all steel cage bearing from Consolidated Transmission in Sanford Florida. I will be rebuilding mine this weekend as a matter a fact . Hope this helps
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1999 Chevy Z71 Tahoe 6.5"Procomp lift 38.5 TSL Swampers 3" inch Body lift
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#3
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Re: Rebuild not Replace
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__________________
~Dave~ '08 Chevy HHR SS, Victory Red, 5 spd. 2.0L Turbo, 52K mi. '98 Buick Riviera, Black, 3.8L Super-Charged, 228K mi. '98 Chevy Tahoe LT, 5.7 Vortec, Black 241K mi. '70 Pontiac Firebird Formula 400, 4spd 200k+ mi., in process restoration '10 Dodge Grand Caravan SE, 11K mi. |
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#4
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Re: Rebuild not Replace
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Just wondering how you made out. Did you get your T-case back together yet? The snow is piling up here and I'm thinking I better make a decision on this soon. Just wanted to know how your's went. Goose |
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#5
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Re: Re: Rebuild not Replace
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__________________
1999 Chevy Z71 Tahoe 6.5"Procomp lift 38.5 TSL Swampers 3" inch Body lift
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#6
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Re: Re: Rebuild not Replace
Quote:
__________________
1999 Chevy Z71 Tahoe 6.5"Procomp lift 38.5 TSL Swampers 3" inch Body lift
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