How to Bleed properly?

[lebrund]

HI gang,
On a trip this past week from Atlanta to Ottawa, I ran into an overheating problem mid stream (VA). After letting it cool down, topping it up (minimum) and then a few taps later, it stopped and I was able to make the rest of hte way no problem. It ran at a norm temp, blew warm and was good to go.... go figure?
---I recently had the intake gasket changed, therm and flush to eliminate/reduce the wonderful sludgy old Dex Cool.
The next day in Ottawa, I couldnt get a mile or two up the road without it red lining and the OHeat idot light kicking in. Soooo, I took on the task of beleive that my therm was sticking so I bought another one. What a PAIN IN THE A--. Didnt remove the TB but I did manage to get it out and back on.
-- The therm that I removed looked new, and when boiled on the stove, opened like a champ.
Same problem, but now I have tried to bleed it but am not sure I am doing it right or for long enough? This is where my question starts.... I have removed the bleeder screw and the rad cap. Ran it and squeeze the upper hose. I get air out but unless I am squeezing the hose, the fluid does not flow out the bleeder on its own. So, i beleive it is not free of air yet.. NOT SURE.... But of course, by the time I think I am getting somewhere, it starts to move up the temp and red line. (all this time, It blows cold on the inside.

How long do I wait/bleed. Or maybe I have a bad pump or was unlucky enough to get a second bad therm but I sure as heck dont wanna take it out to find out? Gonna check that today to see if I have flow but I beleive i do.

Help???

[lebrund]

And just to complain, Autozone wants $24.xx for a water pump for this thing and Canadian Tire wants $67.xx... Sure seems fair EH! Canada needs an influx of Advance or Autozone....

[GTP Dad]

Close the screw and then take the radiator cap off. Make sure it is full and start the van. When the thermostat opens there should be a drop in coolant. Refill the radiator and let it run, watch the temp and if the temp goes up you probably have either a bad pump or blocked radiator. This can happen very easily. To check the radiator put your hand on it and if only part of the radiator is hot then it is blocked. If it is hot clear across then the problem is probably the pump it is not circulating properly especially since you have no heat.

[cdru]

The bleeder screws really only work to remove trapped air while you are filling. So when you fill it, open them (there are 2) a turn or two and fill until you can't fill any more or until coolant comes out the screws. Tighten the screws, then run the engine until operating temp is reached with the radiator cap off. This should get most of the air out. Then top off the radiator, put the cap on, and make sure your overflow tank is filled properly. Run the engine several cycles to drive out the remaining trapped air, keeping an eye on your tank to make sure it doesn't go low enough to draw in air.

[lebrund]

Well, after messing around with it myself for a few hours and a couple of jugs or Dex later, I still had minor air lock issues. Brought it to a friend and we bled it some more (another 3-4 hours) and a couple more jugs of coolant. Got all the air out and managed to get heat through the back heater core but now nothing in the front. I assumed dirt and sludge from the recent flush so I bring it to a rad expert while in Brockville and he flushed it out good. Changed the coolant to the reg green stuff (i have flushed twice before and replaced with newer Dex Cool and still CRAPPPPPPPPP.... enough is enough....

Temp is holding perfect with no fluctuations or moving etc so the air is out and she is running good but still no heat in the front. Back core blows good and warm so all I can assume is that the actuater valver door is stuck in the open position since we use AC most of the year and the heat is on not so often...... Guess when I get home, I will try to remove the dash or parts thereof and see if I can free up that little actuator door....

Thanks for the posts gang! Any further thoughts, feel free to post and or email me!!!




D

PS:>> I should add that a laser therm indicates that the coolant is good and hot coming in and out of the core so it is most certainly not a heating or therm problem.....

[GregA]

Originally Posted by lebrund

... but still no heat in the front. Back core blows good and warm so all I can assume is that the actuater valver door is stuck in the open position since we use AC most of the year and the heat is on not so often...... Guess when I get home, I will try to remove the dash or parts thereof and see if I can free up that little actuator door....

Thanks for the posts gang! Any further thoughts, feel free to post and or email me!!!
PS:>> I should add that a laser therm indicates that the coolant is good and hot coming in and out of the core so it is most certainly not a heating or therm problem.....

I believe the Temperature Actuator Control is on the driver side of the dash. There should be an electrical motor connected to it and can be seen by removing the insulator panel where the drivers feet would be.

I would remove that panel and look up in there with a flashlight while turning the control knob from cold to hot & back again (with the ignition ON). You should be able to see the motor turn back & forth.

Take Care & Happy New Year!