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#1 | |
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AF Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Milford, Ohio
Posts: 6
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This car is currently not being driven. We are starting it up about once a month a letting it run for a few minutes, but the car won't be driven until the owner is able to drive it.
Car has 17x,xxx miles. It has started fine before in the past, but today it won't start. I checked the battery, I believe it was down to 6 volts. After jumping the car for a few minutes, the battery was showing 12 volts, but it still wouldn't start. Occasionally when I was jumping it I could hear the starter turn over for a second and then stop. The rest of the time, during and after the jump, turning the key to the start position only resulting in flashing dashlights accompanied by a loud clicking noise coming from the glove box area of the dash. From what I've been told so far, to get an error code, you have to short the two pins that are in the clip underneath the middle of the dash. Then turn to key to the run position. I did this and it was no different than normally turning the key to the run position. What did I do wrong? Where is the code supposed to appear? With all the other lights correct? Also, my immediate, albeit novice, hypothesis is that the ecm is dead and resetting itself constantly when I turn the key on. Perhaps that is where the clicking is coming from and perhaps that is why I can't get a code? I'm probably wrong, I hope I am. Please give any insight that you can into the situation. Thank you. |
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#2 | |
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A990 racer
![]() Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Chestertown, New York
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Re: 95 3.1 Lumina Won't Start Need help pulling code
Get a known good battery in there some times a jump will not work with a bad battery, also check and clean all the cable connections.
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#3 | |
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AF Newbie
![]() Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Wyoming, Michigan
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Bad Batt??
I agree with Maxwedge- sounds like you need to get a different battery for starters. If your battery was down to 6 volts, thats not a good sign. 12 volts doesn't mean a good battery. Battery's capacity are actually measured in current or Amperage, i.e 600 Cold Cranking Amp Battery. This means a battery can provide that much current/amps to a load or draw and still be at 12 volts when it does it. There is more to it insofar as how long it can provide (Amp/Hour rating), under what temp conditions, and others. Battery reserve rating on a car usually indicates how long a battery can probably keep the car running if the alternator stops charging (i.e. can you make it to safety before it dies).
A better test is to put the volt meter on the battery before trying to start the car, and measure the volts- presumably 12 Volts DC. Then keep measuring the volts as someone tries to start the car. A good battery will stay very near the first 12 volt reading- maybe drop a half volt or so while the starter is putting a load on it. A bad battery- you will see the voltage drop down anywhere from a couple volts all the way to almost zero volts, while the starter is putting a load on it. This is the poor man's battery load tester- a DC Voltmeter and your car's starter as the heavy load. Batteries setting in the cold for a period of time with a low charge, due not recover very well. You should keep your battery charged if its going to set. Batteries are resistant to cold and freezing only when they have a good electrical charge. Good Luck!! |
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#4 | |
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AF Newbie
Thread starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Milford, Ohio
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Yup, thanks guys. I came to my senses and took the battery to advance auto to have them charge and test it. If they give it back and say it's okay then I'll cross my fingers. If it still doesn't start I'll probably clean the cables and that voltmeter trick.
Thanks a lot for the help guys! |
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