1986 735i with a few problems

[nadnordzok]

I recently purchased an '86 735i for $2800 with only 113k miles but I soon found some problems, any help with these would be greatly appreciated.

1. The brakes on the car are awful. The entire car shakes and you can feel the abs at any speed working, not the pedal pulsing, but just how the car comes to a stop, pretty jerky. At speeds of about 50mph+ the car shakes when braking and the wheel shakes also. The abs light comes on and the brake lining light too. The guy I bought it from said it would need rotors but I'm not sure if thats the only problem even though the front ones are in bad shape just from a visual inspection.

2. The temp. gauge doesn't work properly. It just kinda bounces around and if I hit a bump or for what seems like no reason at all it'll jump to hot and stick there.

3. The odometer has good days and bad days. Sometimes it will work fine and other times I can drive about 5 miles and have it say i drove 2/10s of a mile and sometimes it just wont work at all.

4. The computer isn't backlit, so you cant see it once it starts to get dark outside.

5. If you take off from a stop quickly theres something rubbing on the bottom of the car. The guy i bought it from said it was something with the driveshaft.

6. The gas tank leaks when its over half a tank. I'm not exactly sure where it's coming from but ive heard this is a somewhat common. Not good for my driveway at all.

7. Sometimes jerky when the car shifts from 1st to 2nd gear (auto) but for the most part not.

[nadnordzok]

8. If I turn the air conditioning or fans on in any way or if i rev it to about 3000+ rpm theres a squeling noise coming from the engine. I'm thinking it's the belts.

[redhed]

Your braking problem definitely sounds like it's the rotors. Also, I think you are right about the squealing noise being your belts. The display not being backlit sounds as though a fuse is blown. I would strongly recommend that you have a mechanic that you trust look over your car before you do much more driving. If it's leaking at over half full, you may have a crack or small hole in your gas tank, which could be dangerous. You especially need to have the odometer problem looked at. Should you attempt to sell it, and the odometer is not functioning properly, you could be subject to a fine in some states.

[nadnordzok]

thanks for the help, I'll work on the problems that need to be fixed immediately then worry about the minor things that i can do without

[Steve Fisher]

Nadnordzog, with regard to the brake shudder,after replacing rotors and pads, get a wheel alignment specialist to check the centre "trackrod" or "draglink" in your steering. These last only about 60,000 miles.
Qu5. the centre bearing support on the driveshaft sounds like its failed.
Qu7. Have you checked the transmission fluid level. If its OK, take it to an automatic transmisssion specialist, and ask for a full auto-trans service, including oil pan removal, cleaning of external oil pan filter, and flush through. Get them to use a BMW factory service manual to ensure that the throttle and transmission kickdown cables are set tocorrect positioning and tension.
RE qu 2. Fix the temp gauge problem instantly. BMWs cannot survive overheating. 1) Check coolant level in the overflow bottle. 2) There is an air bleed screw on top of the waterpump at the front of the engine. open this screw 3-4 turns at cold. Does coolant leak from the slot at the front of the waterpump, just below this bleed-screw? If not, start the engine. Run it for 4-6 minutes, regularly checking the temp. gauge and also feeling the top and bottom radiator hoses. Are they warming up? Once both hoses have some heat, some coolant should have bled from the bleedscrew. If it doesn't, stop the engine, and remove the bleedscrew completely and poke a 1 millimetre wire into the bleedscrew hole, in case it is blocked with salty or corrosion grunge.
Once the bleed has started to leak water, re-insert the bleedscrew, and run the motor until there are no more air bubbles, just pure coolant coming from the bleedscrew. Coolamt is dangerous to the eyes, so wash your hands and paper towell excess off the motor.
Top up the pressurized overflow bottle to correct level.
If a lack of bleeding of air bubbles was the problem, your temp gauge may now be OK. If it still goes to red, get it to a repair shop for the following fixes which may be needed.
1) A compression test to see if it has a blown head gasket.
2) Check that the "bleed" hose from the top of the radiator to the overflow reservoir is not blockes, as such a blockage can lead to air bubbles throughout the block. The waterpump can pump coolant but not air, so when an ai bubble coincides with the water pump, circulation of coolant ceases, local boiling occurs, the temp gauge hits the red, and a bump can dislodge the air or vapour bubble bringing the gauge back to "normal", soo a fully functioning bled coolant system is essential for reliable operation.
3) A new water pump
From Steve

[Antiburn]

1. You need new rotors, yours are warped or have high a low spots. You can eather get them cut for cheap or just buy new ones which would be the best bet. I have 2 cars that have the same problem and I just really never have the time to cut them.

2. You might need a new temp gauge. not 100% sure on that problem.

3. You might need a entierly new odometer w/ the speedomoter and all that. I forget the correct name.

4. I dont know what your talking about really.

5. Sounds like your suspension is bad and the wheels are rubbing on the wheel wells or the car grinding across the ground.

6. You need a new gas tank or get a gasket replaced.

7. Again is sounds like your tranny is getting bad. On other cars your tranny does that when its low on tranny fluid or becomming a piece of crap.

[nadnordzok]

I recently found a wonderful mechanic who's fixing up my car at insanely low prices. I've got the brakes taken care of with brembo rotors in the front along with some high quality pads, got new seals, new bearings, my hubs painted, and a high quality grease in there for $270... not bad at all. It turns out the bushings in the back are awful and beat to crap, so that would fix the problem with stuff rubbing under the car... the only problem I have now is with the tires... they're impossible to find and they're something like $220 a piece. That's insane. So I figure I'll get some rims on ebay and some tires for less than it would cost me just to get tires. It's really hard to find the right offset of 22mm with a good price. Any suggestions for that or where I would get a set that fit it for around $400-500?

[nichbal]

About the non working odometer. The same thing happened on my 85 735i. I replaced the entire cluster that I removed from a 1984 733i (same chasis- E230) When you replace the cluster make a note of your old odometers reading as will have to put a note in the door frame noting that you have replaced to odometer. Information on the note has to include the old odometers reading, the new odometer reading when installed and the date it was performed. You can take the odometer out of any 7 series car made between 1983 and 1987 basically. That should help.

[resmo]

As far as your gas tank problem your tank is seamed in the middle, so when you have more than 1/2 a tank your above the seam. The tank is sort of a tank within a tank, so the inner is leaking. This is why you don't see anything on the floor under it. I think if you look at the tank you will see stains but you are smelling the vapors. The only good fix I know of is to replace the tank. Hope this helps.

[kennyR]

HEY MAN I ALSO HAD RUBBING IN THE DRIVE SHAFT i bet 100 $ that its the hanger bearing i got mine for 70 $ cdn so its not bad mine idles @ around 500 so i shake a little (i think proper idle is 1000) my abs light comes on and brakes bad but its cuz i need a power steering pump (which powers the hydrylic brakes, abs) it makes it a little hard to steer, also if ur light comes on it could be as easy as checking ur brake fluid as the sensor is attatched right on top of the cap. as for the gas tank i do smell gas sometimes but notice no leaks or loss of fuel so cant help ya there
KENNY

[1988735iLBrooklyn]

I'm sorry to hear about your E32 issues. Here's the deal

- I bought an E32 also 4 Weeks ago in Brooklyn for 2K$ with out looking at the car since its internet sales and had to take a cab to brooklyn. Car has a perfect body for that it deserves full insurance coverage you never know.
- The car started and it was about 22 degrees F. I figure its a good start between my futures Kids car he's going to college this coming year.

OK I'm an idiot. Should have cut my loss there and forget about the 200$ cab fair.
The Bemmer 735iL 1988 was a car I've seen many many times and wished that I owned one. Ok with a poor mans budget I had to wait till it aged 16years before I could afford one OK.

Issues I had and have pending
- Sounds like a diesel plus the bonus growling rumbling noise.
- No torque when first stepped on the pedal
- Radio does not worked (them good guys from BMW dealer gave me the code as long as I bought the Screwdriver to remove the radio and obtain the serial number
- Can't see the mileage meaning $494.00 circuit board replacement plus labor
- Intake had a broken tube leading to the trottle body replaced that with the cold air intake $114.00 "racing style from http://www.bavauto.com that helped of cource takes 15 minutes to install
- driver side window does not work bought a plastic $3.00 part that will suppose to put it back in its track power window motor works
- driver seat the back cosmetic leather comes off actually had to tape it to stay and the left side driver seat does not recline so have to be creative
- The hood release lever is broken so theres a trick to open the hood to get to the engine
- right rear tail light is broken replaced that $224.00
- replace both front and back Badge to shine that BMW emblem $42.00
- Perfect body the car has no dings or dent but needs a Maaco $350.00 paint over same color dark gray.
- the headlights turns off and on while driving but the fog lights stays on.
- the exhaust muffler is rusted but Midas said there are no leaks $88.00
- It came with new tires and brakes
- Then the worst happened the rocker that supports the camshaft broke camshaft is 367.00. 15$ a piece for the rocker multiplied there are 12 of them replaced that as we speak the car is in the shop. Labor as we stand is $710
- The head needed to be grinded to fit and match brought that to a machine shop $200. So far
- Bought the 3 belts aircon, Alternate, fan $29.00
- Bought an E32 manual a must needed tool $105.00

Do the math I'm in a hole for almost 4700.00 Plus other repairs pending

I was so fraustrated that I called the Dealer I bought it from to replace it with a 750iL V12 but I took it like a man and continue to deposit to my Money Pit investments. BUT
Ask your self is it worth it even if you dish out complete $7K total
- Well my trans is good. I drove the car for 500Miles and it was the best feeling even though I know that the car is only 50% of its capability.

My thoughts are if the car stops demanding repairs eventually it's going to stop we could just repair so much then in the end it's worth the hassle. Mentally and financially.

Your thoughts and good luck with your baby.

[750 GHOST]

Originally Posted by 1988735iLBrooklyn

I'm sorry to hear about your E32 issues. Here's the deal

- I bought an E32 also 4 Weeks ago in Brooklyn for 2K$ with out looking at the car since its internet sales and had to take a cab to brooklyn. Car has a perfect body for that it deserves full insurance coverage you never know.
- The car started and it was about 22 degrees F. I figure its a good start between my futures Kids car he's going to college this coming year.

OK I'm an idiot. Should have cut my loss there and forget about the 200$ cab fair.
The Bemmer 735iL 1988 was a car I've seen many many times and wished that I owned one. Ok with a poor mans budget I had to wait till it aged 16years before I could afford one OK.

Issues I had and have pending
- Sounds like a diesel plus the bonus growling rumbling noise.
- No torque when first stepped on the pedal
- Radio does not worked (them good guys from BMW dealer gave me the code as long as I bought the Screwdriver to remove the radio and obtain the serial number
- Can't see the mileage meaning $494.00 circuit board replacement plus labor
- Intake had a broken tube leading to the trottle body replaced that with the cold air intake $114.00 "racing style from http://www.bavauto.com that helped of cource takes 15 minutes to install
- driver side window does not work bought a plastic $3.00 part that will suppose to put it back in its track power window motor works
- driver seat the back cosmetic leather comes off actually had to tape it to stay and the left side driver seat does not recline so have to be creative
- The hood release lever is broken so theres a trick to open the hood to get to the engine
- right rear tail light is broken replaced that $224.00
- replace both front and back Badge to shine that BMW emblem $42.00
- Perfect body the car has no dings or dent but needs a Maaco $350.00 paint over same color dark gray.
- the headlights turns off and on while driving but the fog lights stays on.
- the exhaust muffler is rusted but Midas said there are no leaks $88.00
- It came with new tires and brakes
- Then the worst happened the rocker that supports the camshaft broke camshaft is 367.00. 15$ a piece for the rocker multiplied there are 12 of them replaced that as we speak the car is in the shop. Labor as we stand is $710
- The head needed to be grinded to fit and match brought that to a machine shop $200. So far
- Bought the 3 belts aircon, Alternate, fan $29.00
- Bought an E32 manual a must needed tool $105.00

Do the math I'm in a hole for almost 4700.00 Plus other repairs pending

I was so fraustrated that I called the Dealer I bought it from to replace it with a 750iL V12 but I took it like a man and continue to deposit to my Money Pit investments. BUT
Ask your self is it worth it even if you dish out complete $7K total
- Well my trans is good. I drove the car for 500Miles and it was the best feeling even though I know that the car is only 50% of its capability.

My thoughts are if the car stops demanding repairs eventually it's going to stop we could just repair so much then in the end it's worth the hassle. Mentally and financially.

Your thoughts and good luck with your baby.

The only way a older bmw is affordable is if you do your own work.Before you decide to by a car that when new can cost as much as a house,make certain you know everything about the car,and if you can afford the maintance.A well tuned bmw is the most wonderful driving experience i have enjoyed but a money pit is something to be hated no mattter what brand of car.So when buying a 16 year old bmw do your homework be paitent and the right bmw will be in your driveway.

[Xchekker27]

1. The front brake rotors are definitely bad. They are easy to replace except for the hex head screw that holds them to the hub. Have a set of easy outs available, they work great. Use some anti-seize when you replace the screw.

2. Most likely the Sevice Interval board is bad. You may try fixing broken solder runs, but are better off replacing the board. They are easy to replace, but a bit pricey about $250. Some places allow you to send your old one back for a core refund. Do a google search for BMW SI board.

http://www2.bimmerpartswholesale.com...Board&dp=false

3. The gears are stripped in your speedometer and need to be replaced. A common problem with e23 speedos. A replacement set of gears is about $65. Here's the URL with info:

http://www.odometergears.com/subpages/bmw.html

4. You have a burned out bulb in the OBC. Depending on what On Board Computer you have will determine which lightbulb you need to replace. OBC I has a plain old lightbulb. OBC II has a lightbulb strip. To determine which OBC you have, OBC II has 10 100 1000 etc. buttons.

5. The driveshaft on the e23 has a rubber mounting called a guibo that wears out and also a center bearing. Get under the car to check. Guibo is at front of driveshaft where it connects to the transmission. Look for obvious cracks in the rubber or even missing pieces. Center bearing is at middle of driveshaft and if you grab the driveshaft you may feel movement.

6. There is a jumble of hoses at the top of the gas tank for venting that sometimes tear and will leak. The only way to fix them is to remove the gas tank.

7. Auto trans of these cars are notorious. Does yours have a switch on the console for economy or sport positions? If so take care at idle. If you rev the motor with it in park, you will destroy the clutch pak for 1st gear and be looking at seriously expensive repairs.

for more information go to the e23 group on www.roadfly.org and at www.bimmerboard.com .

[Xchekker27]

Originally Posted by nadnordzok

I recently found a wonderful mechanic who's fixing up my car at insanely low prices. I've got the brakes taken care of with brembo rotors in the front along with some high quality pads, got new seals, new bearings, my hubs painted, and a high quality grease in there for $270... not bad at all. It turns out the bushings in the back are awful and beat to crap, so that would fix the problem with stuff rubbing under the car... the only problem I have now is with the tires... they're impossible to find and they're something like $220 a piece. That's insane. So I figure I'll get some rims on ebay and some tires for less than it would cost me just to get tires. It's really hard to find the right offset of 22mm with a good price. Any suggestions for that or where I would get a set that fit it for around $400-500?

keep looking on eBay for wheels. e32 wheels will fit and are relatively inexpensive. Proper offset is ET20 for stock 15" rims. If you go wider and lower profile, ET11 will work.

Rubbing at back could be subframe bushings. Have a friend observe the car as you move from a standstill. If subframe bushings are really bad, the wheels will turn a bit before the car does as the slack in the bushings is taken up. Another symptom is that as you are driving down the road, the rear end feels as though it is moving side to side. It is... Replace pittman arms (dogbones) too if subframe bushings are bad. May as well...