'95 Pathy just bought - Some Issues

[prginocx]

Truck is in pretty good shape, 68k miles, minor wreck RF fender which is why I got a good deal. ($4500)

Temp guage doesn't seem to work, just stays at the extreme bottom of the range, even after the truck is warmed up...
Any pointers on where to start with this ? Where is the sensor ?

Interior lights don't work at all....I assume these are turned on by the manual dome light switch, plus the door switch. Neither the dome OR the "map" lights come on via manual switch or door switch. What lights are supposed to come on and when ?

Wipers work, Front and rear. Cruise control works, Washer works, Power mirror works, all power windows work although they are starting to slow down. Rear window defroster works. Power rear window release switch works. All other lights work except fog lights and I think they are after market, although the switch looks original.

It also has a built in alarm system, but no key fob. There is a switch for this on the center armrest. How does it work ?

There is a small roller switch on the dash....What for ? Doesn't seem to do anything.


There is a TINY exhaust manifold leak on the R-side, but I'm leaving that alone for now.

Engine and Transmission seem very solid (5spd) although it isn't over-powered. 4X4 works. Axle boots are solid, no breaks. No fluid leaking anywhere underneath. No sigh of 4X4 rock humping. I do have the Haynes manual, Buying the Chilton today.

[denisb]

If both your temp gauge and gas gauge don't work, it's your voltage regulator in your cluster. Easy enough fix. Radio Shack has an 8volt regulator that will work if you are electronically inclined. Nissan has a $40 replacement and NPORA (http://npora.ipbhost.com/) has a write up on it, I'm pretty sure. I will have to check, I might be able to find a write up I had done on this (pictures and directions).

Manifold is a common problem on these.

The dome light should come on via switch.

Some other things you should check for is floor rust (under the gas pedal, under the rear seats) and frame rust (frome rear axles to back)

I have a 90 and they are tough as nails. I'm at 380 some thousand kilometers (aprox. 220K miles) and it's still going.

Some very knowledgable people on these Pathys are the folks at NPORA.

Denis

[prginocx]

The gas guage does register fine and light comes on at extreme low fuel level, guage goes up when you fill 'er up. $15 worth gives slightly less then half full. No fluctuation whatever. I did read up on the regulator issue, but that is why I'm looking elsewhere....

No rust whatsoever under floor mats or rear seats. Clean and perfect. I will scrutinize the rear frame area. Suppose it is clean, how can I protect it ? This guy won't be living in the garage (Boat storage) and it sometimes rains in Oregon (HA!!)

Are the map lights supposed to come on via the push switch just like the dome light ?

So far I'm thinking I got a good deal.....Especially with the low mileage. Thanks to the great advice from people like you on AF.

Can I just wait a while on the manifold issue ? What harm can it cause, it isn't making any noise right now...

[denisb]

If your fuel gauge works fine I would susspect a bad sensor or loose/broken wire.

If the floor is clean of rust I would venture to guess that the frame would also be good. The flaw of these frames are that they ar full of holes, but the holes are too high in the frame. This alows dirt and road grime to acumulate in the frame trapping humidity. My suggestion to protect is to try to pressure wash the best you can and get the inside of the frame under coated. Then keep cleaning every once and a while to keep it free from dirt build up.

Some people say the manifold will only get worst with time. I've had a slight tick for about a year and a half it hasn't gotten worst. I haven't noticed any other problems that this would have been the cause of either. Maybe I'm just lucky, I don't know.

In your previous post you mention roller switch on the dash. Does it have any marking? I have a couple of switches here. One for cruise, one for rear defrost, one for rear wiper and hatch release, but you mention all these work.

As for your lights. You mention map and dome. I don't have map in mine. Just the dome (one on the roof) and it's got a built in switch to turn it off or on. The door switches on these are common problems and they tend to start either not turning on via door or not turning off via door. This is why I turn mine on/off manually.

[prginocx]

Originally Posted by denisb

If your fuel gauge works fine I would susspect a bad sensor or loose/broken wire.

If the floor is clean of rust I would venture to guess that the frame would also be good. The flaw of these frames are that they ar full of holes, but the holes are too high in the frame. This alows dirt and road grime to acumulate in the frame trapping humidity. My suggestion to protect is to try to pressure wash the best you can and get the inside of the frame under coated. Then keep cleaning every once and a while to keep it free from dirt build up.

I did check the frame, especially towards the rear. No rust at all.

Some people say the manifold will only get worst with time. I've had a slight tick for about a year and a half it hasn't gotten worst. I haven't noticed any other problems that this would have been the cause of either. Maybe I'm just lucky, I don't know.

In your previous post you mention roller switch on the dash. Does it have any marking? I have a couple of switches here. One for cruise, one for rear defrost, one for rear wiper and hatch release, but you mention all these work.

I think I've found a clue to the dome light problem. There is a wire going up the middle of the windshield, originates on the pass. side. This wire is intersected by a crack in the glass. Could this wire provide power to the map lights (And maybe the Dome ) ?

As for your lights. You mention map and dome. I don't have map in mine. Just the dome (one on the roof) and it's got a built in switch to turn it off or on. The door switches on these are common problems and they tend to start either not turning on via door or not turning off via door. This is why I turn mine on/off manually.

I also recently found a small toggle switch mounted on the plastic piece just in front of and below the Hood Release. There is also a small pushbutton switch mounted alongside. These two switches absolutely look like after market stuff added by a previous owner. I don't have a clue what they do....Wiring to them is all gray. This will be interesting to figure out....

[denisb]

The wire that runs up your windshield is actually a part of the Pathfinders radio antena system. Not 100% sure but I think there was one type of antena used that used this wire as part of the antena and the other antena worked by itself. So I guess the answer is no, this is not the problem for your dome light.

The switch that's close to your hood latch is probably for your alarm. Most alarms have a switch on under the hood so that if the hood is tampered with (to disconect the battery to dissable the alarm) the alarm is triggered.

Denis

[prginocx]

Originally Posted by denisb

The wire that runs up your windshield is actually a part of the Pathfinders radio antena system. Not 100% sure but I think there was one type of antena used that used this wire as part of the antena and the other antena worked by itself. So I guess the answer is no, this is not the problem for your dome light.

The switch that's close to your hood latch is probably for your alarm. Most alarms have a switch on under the hood so that if the hood is tampered with (to disconect the battery to dissable the alarm) the alarm is triggered.

Denis

You were correct on the windshield wire, the dome light problem was a bad connection, it is working fine now. Comes on via the door switch AND via the manual switch. Map lights also. They are on all the time via the manual push switch.
This antenna thing is wierd. Who ever heard of having two antennas ? One for FM and one for AM ? What is up with that ?

Now I'm really confused about this little toggle switch and its companion pushbutton switch. I was not clear about the location. They are mounted inside the cab just adjacent to the Hood Release pull handle. Gray wires to both...One toggle, one pushbutton. Don't seem to do anything so far.

I guess I don't really understand how the alarm works, period. What is the rocker switch on the center consold supposed to do ? How do I "ARM" the alarm ? I don't have a keyFOB.

I still can't figure out that little roller switch just to the left of the Hazard and Rear Defroster switch. Right below the left center heater "regulators" (Vents to normal people). It has a light bulb icon above it....I'm stumped.
Maybe it is for the instrument brightness ? I can't seem to adjust that.


I did troubleshoot the temp guage problem. The guage seems to work fine, the wire going back to it has about 8.5 VDC on it (When disconnected from sensor) and if you ground it out, the guage reads FULL HOT. With the wire disconnected the guage is at FULL COLD.

With my truck warmed up fully, and with the sensor connected, the guage BARELY registers a tiny change right at the bottom of the scale. I assume it should register somewhere near the middle, right ?
I will remove the sensor and test it in hot water with a thermometer to see how the resistance fades, then it is down to NAPA for a new one.

And one final question. When exiting the vehicle if I manually lock the driver door, all four doors lock. This is normal ? It is really nice, but is it NORMAL ?

[datson]

Originally Posted by prginocx

And one final question. When exiting the vehicle if I manually lock the driver door, all four doors lock. This is normal ? It is really nice, but is it NORMAL ?

My 91 has this handy feature too! Could you be looking at the Sport/Touring shock rocker switch on the center console?

[denisb]

Your auto locking doors are normal. It is quite nice when you have four doors to lock.

The switch and push button I am not sure. On the previous post I had understood that these were under the hood next to the hood latch......oops. Looks like it might be something that was added after the vehicle was purchased. You could check with the previous owner (if possible) or you can try tracing the wires back to where they go. Is it possible the vehicle is equiped with a remote car starter????

By the description you give of the roller switch, I would say you are right and this is the instrument cluster dimmer.

[prginocx]

Originally Posted by denisb

Your auto locking doors are normal. It is quite nice when you have four doors to lock.

The switch and push button I am not sure. On the previous post I had understood that these were under the hood next to the hood latch......oops. Looks like it might be something that was added after the vehicle was purchased. You could check with the previous owner (if possible) or you can try tracing the wires back to where they go. Is it possible the vehicle is equiped with a remote car starter????

By the description you give of the roller switch, I would say you are right and this is the instrument cluster dimmer.

Ok, so everyone agrees this little roller guy is the instrument cluster dimmer control. Question is....How the heck do I get in behind it and see why it doesn't dim anything ? You know I'll start prying this plastic construct apart, snap a few pieces off, then spend months touring the local junk yard to find replacement parts in the right color.

Please tell me there is a trick to taking this whole center heater vent thing apart. You press right here, and it all just pops open, right ?