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Car Audio Do you live in your car? Then you need to be able to listen to some high-quality music.
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  #16  
Old 12-08-2005, 04:06 PM
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Question ( Power Rating )

Quote:
Originally Posted by es669862
This is the specs of my amp and I hookup two 12'' TS-W306SVC 400 nominal input didn't mention if it's RMS I think this is the same. Now I put 60 ampeers fuse but may be my Amp is not safe wiht 60amppers fuse?
Continuous Power (20Hz-20kHz, 0.08% THD)
4 ch: (4 Ohm) 65Wx4
4 ch: (2 Ohm) 75Wx4
2 ch: (4 Ohm) 150Wx2
Maximum Power (EIAJ)
4 ch: (4 Ohm) 130Wx4
2 ch: (4 Ohm) 300Wx2
Frequency Response: 10Hz - 50kHz (0,-1dB)
Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.003% (1kHz, 4 Ohm)
Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 105dB (IHF-A Weighted, at 1kHz)
Dimensions: 10" x 2-3/8" x 12-3/8"
Features

Bridgeable 2/3/4 Channel Capability
1-Ohm Stable Operation
Class A Circuitry
PWM Regulated MOSFET Power Supply
Balanced Isolator Input Circuit
Gold-Plated Screw-Type Power/Ground Terminals
Gold-Plated Screw-Type Speaker Terminals
Gold-Plated RCA Inputs (x2)
Gold-Plated RCA Outputs (Pass-Thru)
Top Mount Controls
Variable Crossovers: 50-120Hz, -12dB/oct. (LPF/HPF) (Front & Rear Channels)
Hi-Volt Input Level Control (400mV-6.5V)
Dual-Fan Cooling
Illuminated Logo
sigh
incresing fuse size is the fast track to blow your amp/start a fire.
The power wire needs to be fused to what the amp's original fuses where (inotherwords w/e fuse came plugged in the amp from the factory)
Every amp has thermal and current limitations in its componets, assumeing the powersupply isnt regulated increasing the fuse size simply allows it to reach thoes Thermal/current limitations. this inturn lets your MOSEFT's and perhaps even your coils and caps go up into flames, filling your car with some nasty smelling smoke.
Turn your gains down (match them correctly, JLaudio.com/tutorials) and read BCAE1.com. you are obviously competent because you make less gramatical and typing errors than myself (which isnt saying much but w/e, iam competent so ya).
Keep any type of EQ down to a minimum. It is better to cut all frequincies to mach a trough in the responce than boost that frequincy. if you must boost a frequincy never boost the frequincy more than 3dB.
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Old 12-09-2005, 10:16 AM
es669862 es669862 is offline
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Re: Re: Question ( Power Rating )

[quote=sr20de4evr]Im guessing you have the subs wired in parallel on one of the bridged channels?

The amp claims to be 1ohm stable but it has no power ratings for 1ohm, which is a little weird. Anyway, if it's 1ohm stereo stable, it's 2ohm bridged stable. If those subs are single 4ohm then you're alright, if they're single 2ohm then you'll need to wire them in series, not parallel.

I think the problem is you're clipping the hell out of the amp though.

.................................................. ...........................................
Thank's to all of you guys, now the Gain is in normal position 1/4 from the highest, EQ's,BBE are also in minimum. About my fuse in the power cable, I put 60 ampeers, what do you think? it is goog or I should change into 30amps. ..Cheersss
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  #18  
Old 12-09-2005, 12:20 PM
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Re: Question ( Power Rating )

i'd recomend trying at 30 first. my amp has 25. better to use a lower rating if you're not sure.
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Old 12-09-2005, 12:52 PM
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Re: Re: Question ( Power Rating )

Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnym86
i'd recomend trying at 30 first. my amp has 25. better to use a lower rating if you're not sure.


In my Amp has two 30ampeers fuse, but into my power cable I used monster 60amp fuse, I was using 30&40 both are blasting because my Gain control, EQ , BBE, are in the higher level so thats why i put 60ampeers. So it's better to put 30? then I will reduce the setting into minimum level?
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  #20  
Old 12-09-2005, 02:59 PM
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Re: Question ( Power Rating )

if the amp came with dual 30a fuses then a 60a fuse is what should have been used in the first place
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