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  #31  
Old 01-22-2005, 05:18 PM
derekBer derekBer is offline
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Re: 4 weel drive problems

i took the acuator out again and noticed it had oil in it. Why would this happen with a new vacuum switch? ....... at the acuator it is only drawing 10 inches after a couple of mintues it went up to about 11. i then wrapped some wire around the end of the shifter cable and tightened it so that the pin was out, it made the same noies when i took it for a test drive. why is it doing this??????????????
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  #32  
Old 01-24-2005, 06:54 PM
derekBer derekBer is offline
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Re: 4 weel drive problems

is my front differental shot??? because if it is fine i was thinking of installing an after market, manual shifter to lock my front hubs. any comments would be greatly appreaticed.
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Old 02-01-2005, 02:27 PM
derekBer derekBer is offline
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Re: 4 weel drive problems

are there any tests i can do to see if it is the differental or if my problem is else where?
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  #34  
Old 12-07-2005, 11:45 AM
red94fourdoor red94fourdoor is offline
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I copied the following from s-10 forum. I see a lot of member having problems with their electronic transfer cases not allowing their 4 wheel drive to work.


All this info helps as well that I wrote on another forum:

Well, through everything I have gone through with this electronic 4x4, I figured I would share my knowledge as best as I can. If anyone thinks something should be added, feel free to. This is also from gathered information on other posts.

***HOW TO CHECK WHAT IS WRONG***

You will probably know when your 4x4 has failed when you needed it in the mud pit. Mine, for instance, failed by not doing anything when I hit the 4HI button. However, it would go into 4LO.

To read the codes for the 4x4 with electric shift transfer case, install a jumper wire from terminals "J" and "A" on the ALDL (12 pin connector under the driver's side dash)

The lights on the 4x4 indicator (switch) will flash in a pattern, there are only 4 codes, one flash is code one, 2 flashes is a code 2, and so on...

Code "1" is "RAM standby power" and is considered normal, may be caused by clearing the codes.
Code "2" is "Encoder fault"
Code "3" is "TCCM motor circuit"
Code "4" is "RAM/ROM failure"

If you have the codes 2 or 3 check all the encoder motor connections at the transfer case, if OK it will need a new encoder motor assembly.
If you have code 4, replace the TCCM.

Make sure all connections are good and no corrosion, and then it's either an encoder or TCCM.

***TO FIX THE TCCM***

The TCCM is located behind the glove box, and is accessed from underneath the dash. To remove, the kick panel and black cover come off. Then a 1/4" screw holds the "brains" in the dash. The middle computer is the Truck's brain, the one on the backside is the TCCM, and on the front is the small ABS computer. Simply loosen the 2 10mm nuts on each side, and they will separate.


***WAYS TO FIX THE ENCODER MOTOR PROBLEM.***

This is the most common problem, and was my problem.

Cheap way - To clear the codes and reset the computer, pull the 5 amp TCCM fuse, located at the bottom of the fuse box. Wait at least a half hour, and then replace the fuse. Turn the ignition key to run, wait for the 4x4 lights to blink, and then turn off. Repeat 5 times, and then start the truck.

Decent price way - I just went and bought a rebuilt encoder motor from a company off of Ebay. Their company is www.northernautoparts.com The part cost me around $140 with a 1 year warranty and $38 core refund when I send the old one back.

Expensive way - buy a brand new one from GM for over $300.

***HOW TO INSTALL THE NEW ENCODER MOTOR***

Lucky way - Only thing that needs to be removed is the encoder motor itself. Tools needed are a 10mm hand wrench and a 8mm and 10mm socket wrench. The 10mm socket will work on the upper and lower bolts, while the regular wrench is needed for the middle bolt. (Tight squeeze). The 8mm socket is for the electric plug.
Then, just pull out, and wiggle it out of the truck. Install in reverse order.

Unlucky way - This means the encoder motor did not just wiggle out. Now the front drive shaft will have to be removed at the transfer case. Then, a yolk puller is needed in order to remove the yolk from the transfer case. Once this is done, go to the directions in lucky way.

This is as much knowledge as I have at the moment about the beautiful setup called the electronic pushbutton 4x4. Thank you to all that have helped me, and hopefully this will help others in fixing the future.

-=Glenn=-

I wish to Thank Glenn aka gmshades from s-10forum.com


I followed everything and I finally figured out what was wrong.
Thanks Glenn
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