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#1
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Check Engine Light
Okay, about a week ago, I changed my plugs and wires. When I test drove it that night, there was no hesitation or anything so everything was fine. The next day when I was driving, the check engine light came on for about a minute and afterwards, just went away. Last week was fine--no CEL and no hesitation. This morning while driving to work, the CEL came on again and because I was already half way, I didn't want to stop and turn around so I just kept driving. I came to a light, stopped, and when I took off, the car hesitated/jerked but the light went away. Now, sometimes when I stop and then go, the car hesistates again--but the light is gone.
Anyone have any ideas as to what's going on and any suggestions to "fix" the problem? Thanks in advance.
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#2
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Re: Check Engine Light
Yeah something's loose or has a bad connection sounds like.
Check your battery first since that's the easiest thing to do, make sure it's clean and connections are tight. But then of course go over all your wires and make sure they're all on tight. After that you can check each wire's resistance with an ohmmeter to be sure they aren't damaged or broken inside. If you don't know what that means, then you can always hook your car up to a OBD scanner and see what the code was for the check engine light to pinpoint the problem.
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1997 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 - 269AWHP/290AWTQ (Mustang Dyno) - [email protected] - 1.756 60ft. - [email protected] (Best TDO4-9B Time) - Driver Mod - IPS TD04-19TL - SPEC 4+ - Wiseco Pistons - 3SX Custom Forged Rods - PMP FMIC + Much More.
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#3
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Re: Check Engine Light
Well, I didn't touch the battery at all during the change so I don't think it was that. As far as the wires go, how would I check it? Other than that, if no one else have any other suggestions, I probably will have to go the scanner route. The sucky thing is that because it's a '94, AutoZone doesn't have the scanner to test. ;o/
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#4
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Re: Check Engine Light
stealth316 shows a way to get codes without hooking up to an expensive scanner. you use an analog voltmeter, and then simply interpret the volt needle sweeps into the specific code that is being thrown by the ECU (causing the CEL). here's the link: http://www.stealth316.com/2-diagcodes91-93.htm
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93 3000GT base K&N | long tube headers | 3sx crank pulley| testpipe | Addco front/rear sway bars (3SX) | rear strut bar & front 3-point strut bar (by JonVr4 on 3Si) | solid motor mounts | LSD insert | KYB GR-2 struts | intrax springs | adj. control arms | ss brake lines | 16% taller 5th gear (teamrip.com) | H4 conversion | push-button start | datalogger | HKS S-AFR | PLX WB O2 coming soon: adj. cam gears | bi-xenon HID retrofit |
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#5
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Re: Re: Check Engine Light
The method on stealth316 wont work. You can get the codes by using a paper clip and a piece of wire..
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#6
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Re: Check Engine Light
The last time I encountered goofyness like that the oxygen sensor went dead on me. it would explain the flashing CEL as it needs 5 or so consecutive readings before it calls a fault.
You can make sure by scanning the OBD scanner. |
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#7
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Re: Check Engine Light
Oxygen sensor? Hmm....I didn't touch that though.... It's just weird because I didn't get any light or anything until I changed my plugs. Prior to changing, I would get hesitation sometimes when I took off from a dead stop but no light. Anyways, will a scanner still be able to pull up the codes for what is/was wrong even if the light isn't on at the time of the scan?
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#8
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Re: Check Engine Light
dude, never underestimate the possibility for coincedence. no matter what you did or did not touch, start simple and work your way up. There is always that chance that it had nothing to do with what you had the car apart for last.
jim
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96 3000gt Vr4 green+tan, fresh engine, lots of little problems, surprised? not at all |
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#9
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Re: Re: Re: Check Engine Light
Quote:
also, i vaguely recall the paper clip + piece of wire method. but doesn't there have to be something to output the signal to? (i.e. voltmeter)
__________________
93 3000GT base K&N | long tube headers | 3sx crank pulley| testpipe | Addco front/rear sway bars (3SX) | rear strut bar & front 3-point strut bar (by JonVr4 on 3Si) | solid motor mounts | LSD insert | KYB GR-2 struts | intrax springs | adj. control arms | ss brake lines | 16% taller 5th gear (teamrip.com) | H4 conversion | push-button start | datalogger | HKS S-AFR | PLX WB O2 coming soon: adj. cam gears | bi-xenon HID retrofit |
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#10
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Check Engine Light
The voltmeter method is only good for 91-93. THe paper clip method all you have to do is plug the paper clip into the right pin. Cant remember which one off the top of my head. Then ground the wire and turn the key switch to on and the CEL will flash out the codes at you. It works on 94-99, or at least it is supposed to work on 96-99. Some 96's it wont work though for some reason.
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#11
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Re: Check Engine Light
interesting. much simpler for the 94-99 cars. would the paper clip method work as well for the 1st gens? or is the voltmeter method our only method (aside from having a datalogger)?
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93 3000GT base K&N | long tube headers | 3sx crank pulley| testpipe | Addco front/rear sway bars (3SX) | rear strut bar & front 3-point strut bar (by JonVr4 on 3Si) | solid motor mounts | LSD insert | KYB GR-2 struts | intrax springs | adj. control arms | ss brake lines | 16% taller 5th gear (teamrip.com) | H4 conversion | push-button start | datalogger | HKS S-AFR | PLX WB O2 coming soon: adj. cam gears | bi-xenon HID retrofit |
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#12
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Re: Re: Check Engine Light
When I had my eclipse I used a test light just connected to the right pins. Same set up as the 91-93 3s. I counted the light flashes.
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#13
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Re: Check Engine Light
Isn't there some type of turning the key on and off a couple times to have the CEL flash you the codes too?
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#14
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Re: Re: Check Engine Light
Only works on Dodges. And a Stealth is not even really a Dodge. LOL
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#15
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going back to the oxygen sensors... these are heated oxygen sensors... and I read somewhere... that the CEL won't come on for them until the car has been running at least 45 mins...
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