Frustrating 92 Accord

[Sconic]

Hey guys i have a 92 Honda Accord 2.2l and it doesn't have spark. It turns over fine but will not start. Starter sounds fine.

I have replaced the:

-igniter
-ignition coil
-dist cap + rotor
-wires and plugs
-ground wires

and the camshaft turns when the engine is cranking so i don't believe it is the timing belt.

I was reading http://techauto.com/s.htm and it basically says either my ignition switch or ECU is bad. Am i correct in assuming this? The lights and radio work and everything so could it still be the switch? And is there a way to test the ECU? I've also heard about a main relay that may be bad but i don't know where/what it is. Can someone fill me in on that? (and yes i did a search) Any info or input would be appreciated. thanks

[Privatebigandrew]

very well could be the main relay. I am not exactly sure where it is on your car, but on the cars i have worked on, it was under the lower dash drivers side. Try a helms manual.

[Sconic]

Hey you are right on where the relay is but would a bad one prevent me from getting spark? i was under the impression it operated the fuel pump.

[deaz]

Are you sure you aren't getting spark? Have you hooked up a tester to the wires to confirm this?
If not, I have some ideas, but wanted to ask first.

[mpumas]

The main relay also powers the ECU so if it were bad you would not get spark. Most time bad maqin relays can be fixed. Have you checked voltage at the top end of the ignition coil. With the key on and while trying to start, you should have at least 12 volts.

[Sconic]

Deaz, I tested the spark at the coil. With the ignition in the on position, i get 12 volts, but while cranking i only get about 8 volts. Also there is no visible spark when grounding a spark plug to the block. I'd like to hear your ideas please.

and thank you mpumas i didn't know the main relay powered the ECU as well. So it very well might be that. What's happening if i'm not getting 12 volts while cranking?

thanks again guys

[Sconic]

Im going to take out the main relay and test it and resodder the points. Let me know what your ideas are guys.

[mpumas]

Ok, so the ignition switch is OK. Now you need to check the coil and igniter module in the distributor. If the igniter works, then it is the coil. Go to the below site for tips

http://www.d-a-p.com/askus.htm

[Sconic]

:-/ both the igniter and the coil and brand new. could it be anything else do you think? i told you it was frustrating

[mpumas]

Need to see if the ECU is pulsing the igniter. Could be one of the three sensors in the distributor or the ECU.

[Sconic]

OK voltage between ignition swtich and igniter seems ok. Also between ECU and igniter seems allright. Have not yet checked for continuity.

When i turn the car to the on position and could not hear the fuel pump. But I'm not sure if i heard correctly or not.

I tried pulling codes for like the 10th time and it actually worked this time, only it flashed the code for IAC valve through my D4 light, which i thought was weird. And thats probably while i missed it the other times i tried pulling codes. But IAC doesn't help me here where the car won't start does it? However, this does lead me to believe my ECU works. I tried to inspect the ECU connections but i am having trouble getting the kick plate off. Any suggestions with that? It seems bolted to the ECU but the nuts are cold welded on i think.

All this leads me to believe it is my main relay at fault. One of those sensors would have shown up in the codes correct? (Not 100% sure on this since the battery has been disconnected and reconnected a few times, so im not sure if the ECU would still store the codes)

[Sconic]

Pretty sure it was the relay. took it out and it did NOT test for continuity. Now another question sorry. Where do you resodder?

[mpumas]

The problem with the main relayi is the solder connections between the two relays on the PC board and the PC board itself. So if you open the module up you will see the PC board. Just reheat and resolder all the points on the board.

[Sconic]

Hey everyone just letting you all know it was the main relay after all. I resoldered the points, threw it in and it started right up. So thank you to mpumas, deaz, and Privatebigandrew, youve been a huge help.

But now to my next frustrating issue. The car started up and after a few minutes running it started smoking from around the valve cover area and the exhaust manifold. I told my dad it was probably just the oil residue on it or something and that it would burn off but he thought the valve cover wasnt tight enough and it was leaking oil onto the exhaust manifold. (bear in mind it's a new gasket and grommets). So he goes to torque down the valve cover nuts and snaps the front left one right off. The threads were severed right where the grommet is. So now it definately leaks. So i'm like ahhhh i just got this started and i take off the valve cover again and take off the nut holding the rod(with the threads) in and it wont come out after i unscrew it. I figured i'd go get a piece from a junkyard but i dont want to force it to come out.

So the question, can someone tell me how to get this rod out? It's the front left rod that the valve cover nut screws on to. I can unscrew it but the bottom seems to get stuck when i try to pull it up.

as always, all help is greatly appreciated.

thanks