Alternator belt tension

[hot_sd]

Yep - I had quite a stuggle with that also. I don't know about the differences between the engine I have and what you guys have - mine is a 00 4 cyl. The tight bolt is by design btw - the factory manual specifies the torque at about 100 ft - lbs. Anyway coupled to this I found that the clearance available is so small it is almost impossible to get a good sized breaker bar in there. There is also no clear line of sight to the bolt from a distance (blocked by the body). Only option was a U-jointed adapter which very quickly bent

Thought about using my torch but was concerned about melting something behind. I have a 240 ft - lb electric impact as well as a 550 ft -lb air impact - both were useless in this case.

Eventaually got the job done by getting a 1-1/2 or 2 ft T-bar from sears (just about got it in) and brute force. Even thought about lowering the engine to gain access but that would have been a whole lot more work - did it once to get the tranny out and did not like the idea of doing that again.

[crazyinkc]

I lower the engine by pulling the 2 bolts out of the front mount. It drops the engine enough to get to the crank bolt. I have a 95 and 96 1.3L's right now but I have yet to work on the 98-up cars.

[hot_sd]

Hmmm..wish I'd tried that now without struggling with the thing. I thought I would also have to remove the center mount bolts which of course needs the exhaust to be removed first which is extra work. In the case of the tranny I had to remove the left and center mounts but so many other things had to come out anyway getting the exhaust out ws just one more thing in the long list

[moonlightserenader]

have had to take mine off twice now. found that using a large 32 wrench with a craftsman ratchet worked better than using a standard breaker bar set up. bent a great neck round ratchet before trying the craftsman. Too timid to try the starter trick.

[geojimslim]

I would like to ask hot_sd how he stopped the crankshaft from turning while putting so much torque on the pulley bolt?
I don't want to bend something while I take it off.
I am planning on using a piece of angle iron, and bolt it to the torque converter bolts.
Will this definetely stop the sqealing belts once I replace the oil seal?
These metro's seem to have a defect.
Most engines will not have slipping belts with a crank oil seal leak.
Does it pay to get a good quality oil seal that will last?
Some seals you buy now are made in korea!
The whole lower front of my '96 1.3L 4cyl engine is wet with oil.
Most likely its the seal because it is wet around this area, but then I think, could it be the oil pan gasket also?
Its a lot of work just to stop these belts from making so much noise.(really loud in the morning)
Maybe I should replace the camshaft seal, the timing belt and tensioner bearing as well and then I won't have to touch this area again for a while.
We just got hit by hurricane Katrina in Fla. and has put a slight hold on things for now.
At least I have power back on after 26 hours.
Thanks for the help guys.

[moonlightserenader]

When under the car you look at the side of the trans facing the engine, you will notice an inspection plate that has a notch in it. You use a LARGE screwdriver to wedge the teeth of the gear. The plate is only held on by the 2 10mm bolts on the sides, so I remove it rather than trying to wedge in that little slot. Hope this helps.

[hot_sd]

yes as moonlightserenader mentioned the way to locking the crankshaft is by locking the flywheel (that is the "gear wheel" mentioned). You need to take out the flywheel inspection cover and then insert a screwdriver in between the teeth of the flywheel at a point that the other end of the screwdriver is prevented from moving by the engine. You have to place the screwdriver at the right or left hand end depending on the direction of rotation. Some engines do actually have a special flywheel locking tool which is easier to use than a screwdriver but I don't think they make one for the metro.

[2gooses]

after an hour of screwing around trying to got the bottom pully bolt off ,so i could replace the crank seal i finally had to put a socket and breaker bar against the frame of the car and turn the starter,bam!bolt comes right out! be careful!

[hot_sd]

Sorry - forgot to add - the procedure is slightly different depending on whether you have a manual or auto trans. What I described is the correct procedure if you have an automatic. If you have a manual I believe the procedure mentioned by moonlightserenader is the one. There is no access hole for the engines with an automatic whereas I believe the manual ones have.

[moonlightserenader]

Actually it's both. my 94 is an automatic...

[hot_sd]

That's interesting. I have a 2000 and there is no access hole - you have to remove the flywheel cover. At least nothing that would allow access to the flywheel. The inspection cover bolts on to the transmision so any acess hole would have to be part of the flywheel/torque converter housing on the tranny - not part of the engine. The factory service manual outlines the 2 different procedures depending on whether it is auto or manual. Maybe the design of the MX17 changed between 94 and 2000?