R&R Radiator in 97 2.4

[Traakon]

Have a friend staying with me and Arizona welcomed her by exposeing a crack in her radiator.

I'm pretty handy (rebuilt and customized old trucks in the past) but these new cars are packed like tuna in a can. I spent a careful hour looking at the prospects of this removal and with the AC coil in the front and the motor in the back and no room to come up and out...well I dont want to make things worse by charging in.

Is there a proceedure for R&R the radiator from that cramped space?

[xeroinfinity]

Wecome Traakon . The radiator drops out the bottem as does the AC coil. heres a little help from the Zone http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8009759c.jsp
This should clarify anything that concerns ur trouble.

[Traakon]

Thanks, that little bit frm "The Zone" i saw but it describes a different modle/year than I'm dealing with.

I'm going to grip my nose and take a shot. wish me luck.

[xeroinfinity]

Sorri aboot that Traakon. Maybe this one works for you , and this year comes out the Top.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8009759c.jsp
this should be for the 97'. its fairly easy once the fans removed. Good Luck

[Traakon]

Well I gripped my nose and took the plunge into sardine service. For those who may follow I will offer how I did it and managed with out much fuss, just about 3 hours of effort ((not counting three runs to the parts store for things I forgot. Total time under hood, including replacing the fuel pressure regulator as a no related issue, 8 1/2 hours)). Note- If I have put into this as much detail as I recall from the “Morning After” and as is apparent, things change a bit fro car to car so use this as a guide and not a bible.

1- Disconnect the Battery and remove. ((Found this gave me the added room I needed plus made the next step possible.))

2- Pulled the cal off the “Fuses” to the left of the battery and removed the 1-10mm bolt and laid it in the battery tray to get that extra 4” of space.

3- Removed the 2-10mm bolts from the intake/air cleaner assembly, loosened the clamp at the throttle body and the air cleaner and lifted that whole assembly off and laid it to the back out of the way. ((Take care not to rip loose the sensor wires connected to it when you do.))

4- Removed push plug and turned the plastic release latch and removed the driver’s side plastic cover over the headlight. Then the 1-10mm and laid the relay mounted to the front cross member back out of the way.

5- Disconnected the electrical connector on the fan and removed the 1-10mm bolt at the top and lifted it up and out of the car, set aside.

6- Removed the 3-10mm bolts from the other device mounted on the hood latch assembly ((mounted passenger side center, appears to be an airbag sensor. The electrical connector, a bright yellow one, is located way up by the passenger firewall with no other connector. The wire harness had to be removed completely from under hood, about 6 feet of it.))

7- Marked its exact location/placement, removed the hood latch assembly starting with disconnecting the hood release cable at the lower latch and laying the free end out of the way. Next the 2-10mm bolts on top, 4-10mm bolts behind grill ((2 driver side 2 passenger)) and 2-10mm at the lower end of the brace arms mounted to the lower cross member. Removed assembly and laid aside.

8- Removed the clamps and the driver’s side ((upper)) radiator hose and let the radiator drain into a large oil catch pan. Removed hose completely and set aside to match up to replacement.

9- Disconnected and plugged the upper oil line. ((5/8 tubing wrench used)) Lay back to the Drivers side out of the way.

10- Disconnected the 5/8’ hose from the top of the radiator to the fill tank, the 1½ inch hose from the bottom of the fill tank and then the 2” main hose from both the bottom of the radiator and the motor and removed. ((This hose is a funny “Y” shaped hose and designated the “lower” hose. Set aside to match against new))

11- Disconnected and plugged the lower oil line. ((5/8 tubing wrench used)) Lay back to the Drivers side out of the way.

12- Removed the 2-10mm bolts that hold the top radiator supports, one driver side ((which also holds the window washer fluid neck)) and one passenger side. ((This one also holds the hood prop saddle so don’t lose that plastic part.)) This frees the top of the radiator for the next step. Remove both upper support brackets and set aside.

13- Tilt the top of the radiator back toward the engine to access the small 7mm hex screw that holds a clamp around the AC line at the top left ((passenger side)) of the radiator.

14- With the radiator loose at the top tilt it back to access the 2-10mm ((one driver side and one passenger)) screws on the front that hold the AC condenser to the face of the radiator. And then let the radiator forward and with the two loose, lift the AC coils up and off the “pin indexed” pads at the bottom separating the two fully from one another. The radiator is now free to remove.

15- I began by tilting it back into the engine compartment and then lifting the right ((drivers side)) up first. Then sliding it toward the driver’s side and with wiggle and persistence up and out right hand side first. ((Careful not to bend or stress the AC hard lines or fittings, with patience it will wiggle out with out damaging the fins on the condenser coils.))

16- Installation of the new radiator was a full reversal of this. Wiggling the new in place I left the protective caps and the bubble wrap in place to assure I did not damage the new one of close fins. It went in pretty easily now knowing the path.

17- NOTES- A couple things to be wary of. The new radiator came with adaptor fittings for the oil lines which caused two issues…by setting the lines an inch farther back, I had to fuss the bend of the upper a bit to get it to align right, it’s a tight space on that side with the “Y” hose. Also, the fittings came with “O” rings, the moment I pulled the protective caps; they both disappeared into the mire that is the lower cross member. I had an “O” ring kit so I could replace them but this would be something some might miss and leave a leak. To hold them in place in the fitting while I reattached the lines, a bit of trans oil on them before pushing them back into the fitting offered just enough “sticky” to hold them for the process. Also, replace the hoses / clamps, you will never get an easier opportunity than now. As hoses go, they aren’t on the cheap end but when you look at the “Y” hose, the most expensive, you will see justification.

18- I did not have any leaks when filled and tested but I never got the fan to trigger, so that’s on my list today, “Test the cooling fan.”

19- Final tally:
Radiator - $145.00
Hoses – Upper $ 10.99
Lower “Y” $ 27.00
Clamps $ 6.00
Coolant $ 35.00
Total $223.99

Quote from local reputable shop- $550.00 + “extras” as defined as things found addition to replacement of Radiator and hoses.

[xeroinfinity]

sounds good! saved youself a few bucks too. was the radiator you bought the ones with the plastic ends ? or was it all brass?

[Traakon]

The new was a direct OEM replacement, plastic tanks on aluminum coils.

As for saving money....we did and since my guest is very short on funds there, it worked out for the best.

Thanks for all the information avalible in this forum, seems while she is here i may need it more.