Neon 1995 rough idling after gets hot!

[ursa_major]

I was thinking that someone's experience might help me with a strange problem. My 1995 Neon does a very annoying thing when it gets hot. After a variable time, I assume it depends upon the weather, after driving, when I come to a complete stop the engine starts to rattle and eventually dies. No problems while driving though. Same thing happens if I leave the engine idling for more than 30min or so. If I wait about 10min and I start again, the engine runs well for an extra 5-10min and then dies again. The PCM tells me that I have the "Oxigen sensor stuck at lean position" which makes perfectly sense with the behavior I get. I already replaced: spark plugs, ignition module, MAP+IAT sensors, oxigen sensors(both), IAC module and PCV valve. The only two things I am thinking of are the PCM and theTPS. I do not know though if the EGR subsistem could produce something like this. Otherwise the car is fine and I really like it. If anyone has any idea of what can cause such a demeanor it would be greatly appreciated.

[gundy00001]

I'm having similar problems with my 2000 dodge neon. Were you able to figure out what was wrong with it?

[ursa_major]

I did not have enough time to do nothing this weekend, but I am seriuosly thinking to replace anything left that has something to do with the temperature:
- Battery sensor, which informs the PCM about the environment's temperature.
- EGR subsistem, valve, transducer, solenoid & hoses-recirculating.
- Engine Coolant Temperature sensor.
If this works, I am done, otherwise I will just kiss this thing goodbye!

[palindromelol]

I think I'll take a stab at this.
On the other side of the circuit,
The O2 sensor shares a circuit with the other O2 sensor as well as:
ignition coil pack
generator
0.47 mF cap
all the injectors and the
noise supressor
downstream circuit of the auto shutdown relay.

Could be a bad ground but it sounds like fuel supply issue too.

Fuel pressure OK?
If ok I'd snoop around the injector side of the circuit.

[ursa_major]

On top of my other list of already replaced parts, I will add the whole EGR system and the battery temperature sensor. Still nothing! Dangerous test on highway, that I would not recommend to anyone.
But, researching again facts and combining some other advices I reached to this conclusion: FUEL PUMP. Fuel pump delivers below the prescribed pressure when the outside temperature is slightly above 70-75F. It is true, because whenever I drove the car UNDER this limit I had no problem, ever! So, I replaced the fuel pump with a recovered one from a scrapyard. A new one would cost you a least an arm and a leg. Now I am testing it again, hopefully this will fix the problem. I will let you know about my success! Wish me luck!