>>B18c swap into a 94 ex civic<<

[94civicvtecex]

I got a supercharger, but I want more power. My engine is old and has 128,000+. My engine's not worth building. I was thinking if I save some money up over winter, by summer I'll be able to drop a GSR(b18c) motor in my civic. Now, tell me, if I get a package including engine, tranny, ecu, shift linkage, axles, etc. What else do I need to worry about. Say I got the motor in my car, what would the first step be. Do I have to do ECU work, or will it just swap. Will my exhaust fit right up to the oem B18c headers. I know my car is a great candidate for a gsr swap and I want more power than my JRSC is giving me.

>>>>I forgot to say this......I definately want to turbocharged that B18c if I ever get it. I was thinking of rebuilding the block to 9:1 comp. I heard that's the perfect compression for a turbo. I think the B18c have 10:6 compression but would be fine for a certain amount of boost. Give me good information. If I do it I want to do it right.

[eckoman_pdx]

Okay, first off, let's start by correcting a few things.

The B18C isn't a GSR motor. It never came nor originated in a GSR. The B18C is a JDM motor from one of two cars:

a) an Integra SiR (black valve covered B18C)
b) an Integra Type-R (Red Valve Covered B18C)

By JDM motor we mean that the motor originated from a car that was sold and driven in Japan.

Both have the same exact engine code on the block stamped, though the power output and internals, etc differ. They both have a compression ratio of the 10.6:1, which is the number you where trying to refer to in your pervious post.

Now, a GSR motor was a B18C1. For reference, the USDM type-r motor is B18C5. Now, these are USDM motors, meaning they came from a car sold and driven in the US. The GSR motor, the B18C1, had a compression ratio of 10.0:1. Needless to say, a more turbo friendly number than the 10.6:1 c/r of the jdm b18c. If you want specifically a GSR motor, you want a B18C1, not a jdm B18C. There is a difference. I'd recommend the B18C1 out of those for boost.

If you do deciede to get a JDM motor, they did come with an option for a factory LSD (limited slip differentail). Now, you have to be careful, some dishonest importers will try to pass off a non-LSD tranny as an LSD tranny to the unsuspecting consumer. YOu'll of course pay extra for this.

If you want an LSD and boost, I'd still rather get the GSR motor (the USDM B18C1), and it's 10.0:1 c/r over the jdm B18C and their higher 10.6:1 c/r. As for the LSD issue, you can have an aftermarket one installed. Quife and Cusco make darn good lsd's for a price.

[ZedEx]

I would get the B18C1, and Turbocharge it. As for Limited Slip Differential... Just guy a Type-R Transmission. Granted, this will run you quite a bit (I've seen them go for as little as $1,500), but the gears are so tight, it makes the car feel amazing.

Good luck with it.

-Wes

[94civicvtecex]

Thanks for the info. I did mean B18c1 in gsr. I forgot that the B18c is jdm. I didn't know the usdm had a lower compression, know I do. On ebay there saying $300.00 extra for LSD, which sounds reasonable. I did forget to mention I wanted LSD, I know it's a must. My friend's DSM has a lsd and it drives like a totally different car. Thanks again, but I would like to know if there's any technical help you can five me.

[ZedEx]

Your friends DSM drives like a totally different car... Because it is a totally different car.

-Wes

[eckoman_pdx]

I wouldn't want the type-r tranny on boost. The gears are so close toghter, too short for boost. You'd be going through them very quickly and shifting like mad. Most enthusiasts on here over the years agreed that the type-r tranny would suck for a boosted up. For n/a though, you can't beat it as the tranny of choice. For boost, it would be far from my first choice. The tight and close gear ratio makes it a nightmare for boosted apps, by comparison.

Also, I'd still rather get a good clutch type LSD or a helical limited slip over a viscious type unit. Isn't the OEM honda one a viscious type? Hard driving and lauching, as well as just plain mileage...is a lot harder of these types. The viscous liquid starts to break down and the LSD isn't much of an LSD. For example, especially if an "enthisiast" owned the car bewfore you, a lot of the stock Nissan viscious limited slips can be toast by the time you buy the car used.

Quife uses a Helical type I believe, and Cusco uses a clutch type. For a FWD you're better off with a 1 way or 1.5 way LSD than a 2 way. Remember that if you get an aftermarket one. I'd get an aftermarket one and install that in a tranny like a GSR or LS tranny. There's the great debate over which of those is better, I still say LS...but still, either will be more plesant on boost than a type-r, and Quife and Cusco make LSD's for BOTH. Also, those LSD's will be either Helical (Quife) or Clutch-type (Cusco), which as I said are both more durable than the viscious type LSD.

As for header length and stock exhaust (from your first post)...I believe we changed out the cat to a different length, but other than that the LS swap lined up. Not even sure if it was nessasary, but I needed a new cat anyway and a del sol one was what we had at the time. It lined up fine though. Not that it mattered anyways, I got a custom 2 1/4" mandrel bent cat back exhaust system done anyway right after the swap. The stock 1 3/4" exhaust was too restrictive. Even a stock teg uses 2" exhuast piping stock.

Since you have an OBD-I car (94ex), getting an ODB-I motor swap (94-95 B18C1) would be the easiest. If you get an OBD-II motor, you'll need to backdate the electronics to OBD-I. Basically, get an OBD-I ecu...meaning you'll need to run an OBD-I ecu, etc...and convert the OBD-II engine wiring to OBD-I for the OBD-I ecu, etc. You'll need to leave ALL the OBD-II sensors and wiring intact though, even if they are just useless and hanging there.