1995 blazer tranny problems

[gtboiii11]

i have a 95 chevy blazer 4x4 4.3 which has so far been a nightmare. I really need help with this tranny problem because i know it cant be right. If i am doing about 25 or 30 miles an hour and put the pedal to the floor, the acceleration is really sluggish and sometimes it when it gets to 38 miles per hour or 40 whichever it shifts at, it wont even shift out, it will just sit there until i let me foot off the gas. If i am doing 60 and try to pull out to pass someone and floor it, there is absolutely no accerlation and by the time it reaches 70 it doesnt shift. I just had the transmission completely rebuilt, with a new tourque convertor and tranny cooler. I am still having this problem and aamco says it is performing like it should. I dont think gm would make a vehicle that when floored doesnt go through all the gears except for when u take your foot off the gas to allow it to shift. Someone please help, i need to know this isint right before i go back into aamco and complain

[buckeyboy]

Originally Posted by gtboiii11

i have a 95 chevy blazer 4x4 4.3 which has so far been a nightmare. I really need help with this tranny problem because i know it cant be right. If i am doing about 25 or 30 miles an hour and put the pedal to the floor, the acceleration is really sluggish and sometimes it when it gets to 38 miles per hour or 40 whichever it shifts at, it wont even shift out, it will just sit there until i let me foot off the gas. If i am doing 60 and try to pull out to pass someone and floor it, there is absolutely no accerlation and by the time it reaches 70 it doesnt shift. I just had the transmission completely rebuilt, with a new tourque convertor and tranny cooler. I am still having this problem and aamco says it is performing like it should. I dont think gm would make a vehicle that when floored doesnt go through all the gears except for when u take your foot off the gas to allow it to shift. Someone please help, i need to know this isint right before i go back into aamco and complain

is your check engine light on and does the truck feel like it is sluggish from a dead stop. any falt codes will be needed

[blkblazer]

I have the same problem with my 1997. Sluggish acceleration from a standing stop or while traveling. Too. makes me wonder what it is now that u have said u hade it rebuilt?

[buckeyboy]

Originally Posted by blkblazer

I have the same problem with my 1997. Sluggish acceleration from a standing stop or while traveling. Too. makes me wonder what it is now that u have said u hade it rebuilt?

DO YOU HAVE ANY CODES> IS YOUR SES LIGHT ON YES OR NO

[blkblazer]

Mine does not have any check engine lights. no codes.....

[buckeyboy]

Originally Posted by blkblazer

Mine does not have any check engine lights. no codes.....

OK cause mine is a 97 and transmission place could not figure out what was wrong truck felt like it was starting off on third gear. you could floor it and it would just take it's own sweet time. The guys on this forum told me change the ignition switch because a white wire from the switch feeds a voltage to the tranny. Changed the switch never had the problem again . Try asking Blazee Blazer LT [b]Rick Noorwood [/B] Or Wolf fox they are four of many knowledgable guys on this forum. Hope this helps keep posting.

[gtboiii11]

i had the transmission comptelety rebuilt and a brand new torque convertor

[wolfox]

I thank you, Buckeyboy for the vote of confidence.

Seriously though, the only immediate things that come to mind are the fact that it's an electronic/electric shifting transmission. If it is not shifting correctly, I would check harnesses, plug ends, anything the boys down at the shop would have taken out to get it rebuilt and put back in. A missing ECM signal, VSS sensor reading, missing/no RPM signal or missing signals in the engine compartment can contribute to a no-shift/rough shift condition. Also, a misaligned shift cable from the center console/shift column on the steering to the tranny can do some wicked stupid things to it. I hate to say it, but second guess your mechanic's efforts and at least pull the harnesses off and check for broken/bent pins and sockets too. Once you check everything that you can see and reach on the exterior of the tranny, pull the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes. Reconnect, start the truck and put her into drive for 2 minutes, foot on the brake to let it re-learn it's idle. Also, check battry voltage and charge state. A low battery can cause a no/late/rough shift condition. In my Isuzu, when the regulator in the alternator died - the electronic shifting tranny in that would not budge out of second gear "limp home mode". Replacing the alternator took care of it, naturally, but low voltages made it act like a 2 year old missing his nap and cookies.

Take her out for a drive and see if she still exhibits this behavior. After that, and it's still malfunctioning, take it RIGHT back to AAMCO, show them the reciept and tell them that you paid for a transmission rebuild, but somehow managed to get a broken transmission in return. They are obligated to see to your satisfaction, especially under warranty - and to render products for services paid. They are a franchise, so with that in mind - have it taken to another AAMCO shop for a second opinion and warranty repair if the originating shop is being a pain in your keyster. After that, and still no luck - time to start talking to regional managers. Toss words like "Sue" "lawyer" and "my satisfaction is demanded on this matter" around, and they should set you up right.

[gtboiii11]

thanks for the response i figured it shoudl go through all the gears smoothly if working properly, before i can take it back in though now i am another problem i am dealing with, which is possibly the fuel pressure regulator, so after i get this checked out i will take it back in

[wolfox]

If the truck is stumbling under acceleration or is not making power though she is turning high RPM's, then the transmission *is* behaving normally. It will delay the shift between gears to allow an anemic engine to make revolutions for power. Run a bottle of SUV sized Techron in the tank. Should clear up combustion chamber and fuel inector deposits and restore smooth power again. Dump an extra $4 for a can of throttle body cleaner and clean the bore and butterfly near your intake. Remove and clean the IAC just above the butterfly plate and clean the bore hole it fits into with a soft toothbrush and flush with more TB cleaner. Might also want to check your MAP sensor next to the front-driver side of your Vortec cover plate, make sure it's clean and plugged in snug and then remove the Vortec plate and inspect/clean your IMTV. While you're at it, and have the IMTV out; peek inside with a flashlight to see if there are any pools of gasoline inside. A good sniff will reveal if there is raw gas in there too... Gasoiline pooling is another matter altogether. But just check all of your intake parts and clean them and perform a computer reset. See if that picks her up. Oh, and change your oil soon after you run that tank of Techron. It's a powerful cleaner and can deplete your oil between it's solvency and the crap it will take out of your engine.

I reveal these steps and thoughts in the light that you have already performed a *complete* tune-up in recent history. (Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter, yadda-yadda-yadda, the Search feature will grab you the info you need that is escaping a sleep deprived brain)