amp problem

[kennie616]

heyy i just bought a kicker kx600.1 and 2 12 in compvrs and i have them setup in a 2 ohm load puttin out around 600 rms to both subs. But wen i turn it up i blow the fuse and i donno if its how i tune my amp or if its drainin to much power. I dont kno how much to turn up for the bass boost the frequency and the gain.. help.. or tell me if a capacitor would help it from shuttin off.

[95dxcivic]

a capacitor would help, the fuse is probably blowing because of extremely low voltage, the capacitor would keep your voltage steady, my car drops to 10 Volt's with only 350 watts rms, your is 600W, almost twice as mine

[Jeremy86]

I don't want to sound like a jerk, but when a fuse pops it's because too much current is being drawn. What is the number on the fuse say? I am almost betting it will say 50 or less.. More than likely less. You see buddy, I still am learning about it but your car has around 12.5 volts to supply to everything (even tho an alternator puts out around 14V on my car). This is hard to explain but if say your fuse says 40, if you multiply 40*12.5, that is only 500 watts. So if your amp really does peak or do RMS at 600 watts, it will definitely pop a fuse every time. Let me know what amp kit you bought, maybe I can help you. Depending on the size of the wire you might need to go bigger. Like I said, not trying to get off to a bad start, I just don't want you buying something you don't need. A cap isn't what you need at this point in time. Let me know bro.

[kennie616]

my fuse is a 100

[PaulD]

Jeremy ... you have a LOT to learn about electronics my friend

[Jeremy86]

Why do you say this

[Jeremy86]

And I don't even see your input.. Other than telling me the information I gave is wrong when it is mostly right.

[OffRoadSonoma]

Originally Posted by Jeremy86

And I don't even see your input.. Other than telling me the information I gave is wrong when it is mostly right.

O Man. It's nice to see you trying to get in and help and state your OPINION Jeremy. But one thing you don't do here is flame people. ESPECIALLY a Mod or guys that have been here a long time. But it is obvious that you wouldn't know that because you are new. So we'll lay down some basic rules.
1: No flaming
2: State opinions as opinions (We know you have many of them)
3: When you see guys with 500+ posts, don't argue with them. Usually they know what they are talking about or they would have been gotten rid of like you might be.
4: If you aren't sure of something (which we all understand) just ask. All of us had to learn at sometime and many of us still are.

That's about it. If you guys want to add, I don't mind. So I am just trying to help you out Jeremy. You seem like you could have something intelligent to add, but going and posting 24 messages in 2 days, stating your opinion as facts, and flaming a moderator sure isn't gonna make you very many friends. So if you want to come here and try to flame me or anyone else here, go ahead but know that the next question you post you probably won't get any replies.

Thank you everybody, Capitan Jimmy signing out.

[L|_|da]

how are your subs wired? your sure you ahve a 2 ohm load, each sub @ 1 ohm then put into a series circuit to the amp, or are they each one ohm and in parellel to the amp [this would present a 1 0hm load to the amp, thus blowing it].

[Jeremy86]

Sorry for just relaying from what I was supposing was factual from people, guess I can't trust many people now. Sorry if my opinion wasn't good enough.

[OffRoadSonoma]

I wasn't saying your replies weren't good enough. I was basically letting you know that everyone has opinions, and to try not to flame people. People like PaulD are here all the time checking posts and forums, and if they see someone being pointed in the wrong direction or if they have a question no one is replying to then they will put their two cents in, but other than that they pretty much just monitor stuff and make sure everything runs smoothly. So you can still put your two cents in, but there is gonna be a lot of times people will say you are wrong or there is something better. Sometimes they are right, sometimes they are wrong, sometimes they say something because they have hooked something up like that, but you can't get all offended everytime someone thinks different from you.
Capitan Jimmy signing out.

[Jeremy86]

My 1 cent in

[PaulD]

Originally Posted by Jeremy86

your car has around 12.5 volts to supply to everything (even tho an alternator puts out around 14V on my car). This is hard to explain but if say your fuse says 40, if you multiply 40*12.5, that is only 500 watts. So if your amp really does peak or do RMS at 600 watts, it will definitely pop a fuse every time. Let me know what amp kit you bought, maybe I can help you. Depending on the size of the wire you might need to go bigger. Like I said, not trying to get off to a bad start, I just don't want you buying something you don't need. A cap isn't what you need at this point in time. Let me know bro.

Once the car is on, the alternator supplies ALL the electrical power until the draw is so great that the voltage sags to below the float voltage of the battery. You calcualations are true IF you are talking about a steady state draw like a set of fog lights. Amps are NOT a steady state power draw, they draw power in proportion to the demand presented. That's known as a PWM or pulse width modulated power supply. Fuses don't "pop" right away when you put a little too much current thru them, it takes a little time. One problem that happens is that if you are drawing so much power, the voltage sags ... causing the amp to draw even more curent to maintain the power. The other problem is that bridging an amp doubles it's power output capabilty, causing even more power output. I am guessing he has his subs wired for 2 ohms and has bridged the amp - meaning the amp is effectively seeing a 1 ohm load. The manual should tell you, you usually have to up the fuse rating like 25-30% when you bridge it so low. Another factor in true current draw is headroom .... there is a lot an engineer has to take into account when determing the fuse rating on an amp

[Jeremy86]

I was just stating what happened to me. I would run my dmm because I didn't have a voltmeter in my car. I would run music and I never popped a fuse, but I've heard of people drawing too much current and causing a fuse to pop. Whenever my current dropped to 10 (not good I didn't think) my amp would go into protect, it wouldn't try to pull more. Also my amp was unregulated.. I thought he was talking about his power line fuse, I'm still unsure which fuse it is. I guess I should have asked that first.