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#1
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So I basically inherited a 75 Dodge with a brand new big block in it (2000 miles). Problem is I don't anything about maintaining this thing. It's been sitting for 10 years so I definitely have to change all the fluids. That being said I don't even know how to change most of them. If anyone could point me to a resource where I can learn about maintaining this it would be very helpful. I don't even know what type of oil to throw in there, so any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Jeremy |
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#2
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Re: 1975 Dodge W200 with a 383BB
you could try moparts.com
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#4
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Re: Re: 1975 Dodge W200 with a 383BB
It has that many (2,000) miles on it. It has sat for about 10 years. It's been periodically started in that time frame but that's all.
My master plan was to change all the fluids and run it for awhile, let the fluids get through. After that (if that goes well) then I'll start playing and learning and messing around with it. Is there anything I should absolutely do that I'm missing? I know nothing about motors. Thanks for the help guys. |
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#5
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Re: 1975 Dodge W200 with a 383BB
That year you'll probably want to use 10w40 motor oil.
Dexron/Mercon ATF (I think) for the transmission. Any good gear oil for the differentials. Power steering probably a standard PS fluid from your local parts store. Coolant will be your regular green Prestone/Peak/whatever. You said W200, so it's 4wd. I'm not sure about the transfer case. You should be able to find some help at www.allpar.com. Basically, an older vehicle will need a bit more maintenance. Plan to change the motor oil every 3K at least, maybe every 2500 miles. The trans fluid should probably be changed every 50000 miles. Get a good auto maintenance handbook and it will show you schedules and basic procedures. Enjoy!
__________________
Ours: 2020 Jeep Wrangler 2.0, 53k 2013 Toyota FJ Cruiser, 84k Kids: 2005 Honda CRV, 228k |
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#6
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Re: 1975 Dodge W200 with a 383BB
I will add this, check all the brakes, a lot of time corrosion will seperate brake shoes from the backing plate if they do indeed get corroded,and do corrode a lot when they sit that long, crawl around under it and inspect all the brake likes, metal and rubber for rust and cracking, also for leaky rear wheel cylinders and sticky front calipers (if it has calipers) if all looks good a brake fluid flush with all new fluid would go a long way as well, last thing you need now is to be unable to stop the beast.
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