contour 95 clutch change

[surg_w]

Hi
Today I had my countour GL 95 had oil change, and clearly I was told that I need to replace the clutch and flywheel (whats flywheel?). the price was $600 for the parts and $800 for labor (which is more than I paid for the entire car).
Does this offer seem logic? could I do it for less? If I won't change the clutch, am I risking more than the geer (like my life...)

As this forum was very helpfull in the past, I am sure it will be again,

Thanks
Surg

[beyondloadedSE]

First of all, since you own the car, is the clutch shipping? In other words, if your driving down the road and you floor it, will the rpms all the sudden just fly upwards as if you pushed in the clutch and were still revving the engine. Sounds like the shop is just trying to get you to pay more money. I dont see why you would need to replace the flywheel either, even if the clutch was bad. If you have no problem driving the car and it shifts fine, then your clutch and flywheel dont need to be replaced.

The flywheel is a big wheel (rotational mass) that connected to the crank and has teeth on it. The starter has teeth on it as well and it connects to the flywheel. The starter rotates the flywheel and thats what helps your engine start.

Heres a pic of a fidanza flywheel on my car.


Btw, the $600 they quoted you is extremely high. You can get a performance clutch and flywheel for that price!

[surg_w]

Thanks
I didn't notice if it is shipping. I'll take a look at it on the way to work tomorrow morning.
The shift is usually fine except when putting the geer in 3rd, but it was like that since I bought the car 10 m ago.
About the price offer it was for the clutch ($520) and the flywheel ($75).
Is it safe to buy a clutch at an auto rack and what should be an acceptable labor fee on replacing it?
Thanks again
surg

[beyondloadedSE]

Originally Posted by surg_w

Thanks
I didn't notice if it is shipping. I'll take a look at it on the way to work tomorrow morning.
The shift is usually fine except when putting the geer in 3rd, but it was like that since I bought the car 10 m ago.
About the price offer it was for the clutch ($520) and the flywheel ($75).
Is it safe to buy a clutch at an auto rack and what should be an acceptable labor fee on replacing it?
Thanks again
surg

What your experiencing in 3rd gear is probably a worn syncro. If it makes a crunch or grind when you go from the 2-3 shift, then its a syncro. The 3rd gear syncro is the most typical to wear out on the mtx-75 transmission in the contour, but im surprised its worn out on your 95 since the 95-97 had the dual blocker rings where as the 98-00 downgraded to the single blocker ring. Chances are the person that owned the car before you powershifted and didnt know how to rev match. Anyways, regardless...its not your clutch thats going. Trust me...if your clutch was shot, as soon as you turned on the car, the vehicle would ludge forward since you couldnt disengage the clutch.

The clutch price of $520 is insanely HIGH! I payed $400 for my SPEC stage 3 clutch which is a full out race clutch. Not to mention that comes with a new throw out bearing as well, which im sure whatever he quoted you, did not. $75 for a new flywheel seems decent, but again I dont see why its needed. $800 is high as well.

Bottom line, i think the mechanic is trying to pull a quick one on you.

[surg_w]

Thanks agian for all that information. I agree with you, and after talking to the mechanic this morning, he was not as convinced as yesterday about the urgency of changing the clutch.
My question is what it takes to fix the worn syncro (if it is necessary at all- I don't mind the noise).
Another question regards the spark plugs: I can see only 4, but was told there are 6. Any idea where to look for the other 2 (if there are any) and could I replace only 4 of them (since I have only 4 right now)?

Thanks again

Surg

[beyondloadedSE]

the whole tranny must be pulled to replace the syncromesh. Pretty a labor intensive job. Id suggest maybe putting in some of the motorcraft atf fluid and half a bottle of the ford 'honey' friction modifier to help smoothen the shifts and see if that helps.

Im assuming you know you have a V6 and not the 4 cylinder which only has 4 wires. Just to confirm, your engine should look something similar to this.


Now assuming it does, your going to have a black cover on the front valve cover that will say 2.5L duratec. Theres 3 or 4 8mm bolts holding that cover on. Take that off and it will expose the front 3 wires. Your engine should look something like this once the cover is removed. (Ignore that BIG aluminum box...thats the intercooler for the turbo)



The other 3 on are on the rear valve cover underneath the coilpack.

[surg_w]

What a nice engine, my engine is not even in the same league. I have 4 cylenders so I guess only 4 plungs ro replace (which I allready did). The mechanic in its estimate wrote 6 plugs and I presume it was not a typo.
Thanks for yor help

Surg