95 Camry Power Windows Fuse

[jwmickey]

I'm new to the forum so this may have been addressed earlier, but I'd like to point something out.

Yesterday my air conditioner compressor died and after hours of trying to figure out why that caused my instrument panel, brake lights, and power windows to go out, I came to the conclusion that the compressor probably caused a surge in the alternator and took out a few fuses.

I managed to get the brake lights on easily (the fuse was clearly labeled in the box behind the storage compartment to the left of the steering wheel) but I could not find the power window fuse anywhere. At the same time, I overlooked the guage fuse when checking to see if any were blown.

The point is, the fuse for the power windows is the same 10 amp fuse for the GUAGE. I don't know why it's on the same fuse or at least marked P/W or something. Once I replaced this fuse, I got my power windows and instrument panel back up. Just wanted to point that out to anyone who might be having a similar problem.

Now to pay for a new compressor and condenser

[quincyguy]

Power windows are on a circuit breaker, which is atop the fuse block
inside kick panel at left foot.
There are two, & I'm unsure which one is for the windows. So - remove both of 'em and reset by pushing a paper clip into the hole in the center.
Should do it.
If not, you have work to do.....

" No nation ever taxed itself to prosperity"
- Bernard Baruch

[ismeelgato]

Hey guys,
I recently replaced both my window regulators on my 93 camry xle, for some reason the window on the right passanger side in the front doesn't want to work at all...it was up when I first put in the motor, but now it doesn't move after it went back down. The window motor was very hot when I opened it again. The driver side works very good and so do the other windows. I wanted to know which fuse should I check for only the right front side.. Any Ideas?

[quincyguy]

You may have something else goin' on......
I'd look at that regulator again, and see if it's not binding up in some fashion. Not a lot of room in there. Are the new ones lightly coated
with the white cheese/mayonnaise goo they put on 'em to make 'em slick?
I duct-tape the windows to the tops of the doors when I mess with 'em
because they will drop on their own.
D'ja check out the switch for that window? Continuity ok?
The other ones work, which means you are 80 per cent okay electrically.
Get back in there, look around, wiggle some wires, be patient, a hot motor means it's working hard against resistance.
Lots of electric window advice in here going back over the last few months.

"Listen to 'em long enough and they'll tell
you what's wrong with 'em"

- old time Mack mechanic